I did the same process, my toners are the orginal with no chip except the black but its orginal, after i did what you said the hack process failed
pages printed
239/338
Try this, just disconnect the connection as soon as you see the green light.
DO exactly as he does, you will se three red blinks, then a green light will come on, break the connection and wait for the process to finish.
I tried this method with my clp315 and it worked.
Thank you for your sujestion…
I also could not do the reset the way it is mentionated in the article…
however i need to do this every time i restart the printer (hold reset switch untill green light turns on and release it next)
Maybe Samsung made some firmware fix to resolve this flaw?
It worked!
With your method i waited untill green light whent on and immediately after it went green released the connection…
My mistake was that i was jumping the test print page right to the configuration report!
That way it seemed reset but after restart only black toner cartridge was 100% and all others whore back to original percentage…
So to make it work in my printer i had to, after the long boot up, print(as described by the author) the “test print page” by holding down for too seconds the stop button until light flashes slowly,page is printed,then hold down stop button untill green light flashes fast that makes it print “configuration report” restarted and voila all toner cartridges at 100%!!!
Thank you so much.
Time to go buy some toner!
Hi, this problem is quite easy to solve!
I´ve got an CLP 315 USB
with mix of Original refill with original chips and lowbudget refill with replaced chips:
Put a Tape over the contakts of all chips,
connect cable as described to ground,
restart and wait until initialized,
disconnect cabel from ground,
restart again and wait until initialized,
initialization always takes about 30 seconds and more,
print out Data Sheet,
All should be set to zero
Good Luck!!!!!
Brian,
I am having a hard time trying to solder the connection. I am afraid i am just going to melt the chip. I can see yours is also sort of melted. but how did you do it?
He hasn’t melted the chip. It might be flux leftovers your seeing. When you solder it’s important to add some solder to the tip of the soldering iron. This is what conducts the heat. If you try and heat up a joint/pad with a “dry” tip, the heat will be transfered inefficiently.
Hey I used to have issues soldering or re-soldering. I’ve found that if you use a fresh soldering tip and a drop of flux on the old solder it melts super quick.
We have the wireless and Ethernet version. When we did this we had to release the grounding after the green light turned on. However, the printer lost it Mac address, and now will not connect wirelessly. It still works through the Ethernet connection. I would recommend disconnecting the wireless card before doing this. Don’t know if that will help or not, but it is worth a try. Will post if we figure out how to get it to work again.
If you previously knew your printer’s MAC address, try rewriting those 6 bytes onto your CLP-315 RAM following datasheet specifications (http://www.datasheetcatalog.org/datasheet/stmicroelectronics/4578.pdf) and another I2C serial tool such as Arduino, PIC, etc.
On the other hand, you can try with another MAC address and then recall it with your Wi-Fi configuration. Hope it helps!
ermanog on December 8, 2012 at 5:45 pm said:
It worked!
With your method i waited until green light went on and immediately after it went green released the connection…
My mistake was that i was jumping the test print page right to the configuration report!
That way it seemed reset but after restart only black toner cartridge was 100% and all others whore back to original percentage…
So to make it work in my printer i had to, after the long boot up, print(as described by the author) the “test print page” by holding down for too seconds the stop button until light flashes slowly,page is printed,then hold down stop button untill green light flashes fast that makes it print “configuration report” restarted and voila all toner cartridges at 100%!!!
Thank you so much.
Time to go buy some toner!
Most important thing to be kept in mind when working with soldering iron is not to touch the tip of the iron as it is extremely hot. Soldering material used for the purpose is an alloy of tin and lead and is called flux. Before you put solder over the required area, heat up the surface to be soldered by touching the tip of the hot iron. Application of the solder is called “tinning”since percentage of tin is more in the flux. However, flux can be of various types depending upon the things to be soldered. `
I did the same process, my toners are the orginal with no chip except the black but its orginal, after i did what you said the hack process failed
pages printed
239/338
Try this, just disconnect the connection as soon as you see the green light.
DO exactly as he does, you will se three red blinks, then a green light will come on, break the connection and wait for the process to finish.
I tried this method with my clp315 and it worked.
Thank you for your sujestion…
I also could not do the reset the way it is mentionated in the article…
however i need to do this every time i restart the printer (hold reset switch untill green light turns on and release it next)
Maybe Samsung made some firmware fix to resolve this flaw?
Edit:
It worked!
With your method i waited untill green light whent on and immediately after it went green released the connection…
My mistake was that i was jumping the test print page right to the configuration report!
That way it seemed reset but after restart only black toner cartridge was 100% and all others whore back to original percentage…
So to make it work in my printer i had to, after the long boot up, print(as described by the author) the “test print page” by holding down for too seconds the stop button until light flashes slowly,page is printed,then hold down stop button untill green light flashes fast that makes it print “configuration report” restarted and voila all toner cartridges at 100%!!!
Thank you so much.
Time to go buy some toner!
Hi, this problem is quite easy to solve!
I´ve got an CLP 315 USB
with mix of Original refill with original chips and lowbudget refill with replaced chips:
Put a Tape over the contakts of all chips,
connect cable as described to ground,
restart and wait until initialized,
disconnect cabel from ground,
restart again and wait until initialized,
initialization always takes about 30 seconds and more,
print out Data Sheet,
All should be set to zero
Good Luck!!!!!
Any idea if this work on a CLP-325W?
I may give a try…
Thnaks for the nice how to!
Brian,
I am having a hard time trying to solder the connection. I am afraid i am just going to melt the chip. I can see yours is also sort of melted. but how did you do it?
He hasn’t melted the chip. It might be flux leftovers your seeing. When you solder it’s important to add some solder to the tip of the soldering iron. This is what conducts the heat. If you try and heat up a joint/pad with a “dry” tip, the heat will be transfered inefficiently.
Hey I used to have issues soldering or re-soldering. I’ve found that if you use a fresh soldering tip and a drop of flux on the old solder it melts super quick.
Hope this helps.
We have the wireless and Ethernet version. When we did this we had to release the grounding after the green light turned on. However, the printer lost it Mac address, and now will not connect wirelessly. It still works through the Ethernet connection. I would recommend disconnecting the wireless card before doing this. Don’t know if that will help or not, but it is worth a try. Will post if we figure out how to get it to work again.
If you previously knew your printer’s MAC address, try rewriting those 6 bytes onto your CLP-315 RAM following datasheet specifications (http://www.datasheetcatalog.org/datasheet/stmicroelectronics/4578.pdf) and another I2C serial tool such as Arduino, PIC, etc.
On the other hand, you can try with another MAC address and then recall it with your Wi-Fi configuration. Hope it helps!
Anyone had this working for a CLP-325w model ?
Any info around firmware version this tip applies to ?
ermanog on December 8, 2012 at 5:45 pm said:
It worked!
With your method i waited until green light went on and immediately after it went green released the connection…
My mistake was that i was jumping the test print page right to the configuration report!
That way it seemed reset but after restart only black toner cartridge was 100% and all others whore back to original percentage…
So to make it work in my printer i had to, after the long boot up, print(as described by the author) the “test print page” by holding down for too seconds the stop button until light flashes slowly,page is printed,then hold down stop button untill green light flashes fast that makes it print “configuration report” restarted and voila all toner cartridges at 100%!!!
Thank you so much.
Time to go buy some toner!
thanks for everything all !!!
Most important thing to be kept in mind when working with soldering iron is not to touch the tip of the iron as it is extremely hot. Soldering material used for the purpose is an alloy of tin and lead and is called flux. Before you put solder over the required area, heat up the surface to be soldered by touching the tip of the hot iron. Application of the solder is called “tinning”since percentage of tin is more in the flux. However, flux can be of various types depending upon the things to be soldered. `
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