Hacking the Samsung CLP-315 Laser Printer

I am the happy owner of a Samsung CLP-315 laser printer. It is a fantastic printer for the price. Things were going great until it came time to replace the toner. At the time, the price of a full set of toner cartridges was around $150. To put things in perspective, the printer itself could be acquired for less on eBay. Not being the type of person who so easily bends to the will of “The Man”, I set out on a journey to find a cheaper source of toner.

A “journey”? Really? As it turns out, the answer is yes but in the end it was worth it. This is going to be a long post, so strap yourself in. If you’d prefer to cheat, you can skip straight to the good stuff.

How Stuff Works

Since I last purchased a laser printer (my circa 2001 LaserJet 1200 is still kicking) the industry has changed. Imagine that!? Apparently, it is now common practice for printers and even toner cartridges themselves to count the number of pages that have been printed in order to track the consumption of toner. The printers then use these page counts to project how much toner remains in the cartridge. To my knowledge, the cartridges don’t have a way to sense how much toner remains.

Why does this matter, you ask? Essentially, it would be like having a gas gauge in your car that only tracked how far you had driven, not how much gasoline was left in the tank. Depending on several factors (driving style, load, tire pressure, etc), the amount of fuel consumed in a mile can vary wildly. The end result; you either waste gas, or run out. Neither is good. The same can be said for the way modern laser printers track toner.

This causes two problems. First, toner is likely being wasted (which irks me). Second, refilling the cartridges with toner purchased in bulk does nothing to reset the accumulated page count. It is like putting gasoline in your tank, but not being able to start the car until the odometer is reset. Knowing all this, the only thing standing between me and cheap toner refills was finding a way to reset the counters.

Unsurprisingly, I am not the first person to try to address this problem. In fact, there is plenty of published hackery surrounding this printer. Not wanting to start from scratch, I got to reading. What I discovered is that the page counts are all stored on an EEPROM chip that is attached to an I²C bus (an ST M24C64, in this case). If that last sentence meant nothing to you, you might want to skip to the “Reset Procedure” section… It is going to get technical for a while.


After doing some homework, I decided to try watching the I²C traffic with a logic analyzer to see what memory locations were getting updated on the EEPROM after each print. I was able to catch the first handful of writes, but there were so many that I decided to take a slightly different approach.

I wrote an Arduino sketch to dump the entire memory of the EEPROM to the serial port. This allowed me to see a before and after memory snapshot. So, I would dump the EEPROM, print a page, and dump it again. I then compared the outputs using a diff program. I looked specifically for writes that looked like they incremented a value. Like I had suspected, there were lots of locations that were incrementing. Great!

The next thing I did was print off the printer’s “Configuration Report”. This is done by holding down The Button until the green light flashes rapidly. This report includes several counts, including the counts for our toner cartridges and the printer itself. By searching the dump file for these numbers (after converting them to hex), I was able to track down which memory locations were used to store which counts.

Now I had a list of memory locations that (I assumed) stored the page counts. I could use another Arduino sketch to write zeros back into those locations. Using our analogy from before, I hoped this would reset the “odometer” and register the tank as full.

I was able to successfully write zeros to all of the incrementing memory locations. Unfortunately, after printing the configuration report again, the “Toner Remaining” percentage hadn’t updated for any of the cartridges. Also, the low-toner warning lights remained lit for all colors. Apparently that percentage is a stored value, not one that is calculated on the fly based on the page count. If the numbers were stored as floating points, this could explain why they were harder to see, as they may not have changed by exactly 1 like the page counts did.

I needed a better way to analyze and flash the entire address space on the EEPROM. I hooked up my Bus Pirate to the I²C bus, and was going to start writing some software to accomplish this. Here is where things got really interesting

The Discovery

I rebooted the printer with the Bus Pirate connected (I don’t remember which mode I had it in), and it took a really long time to start-up. I ran the configuration report and it had mysteriously zeroed or erased every field. All values, serial numbers, dates, and counts were blank or zero. I was terrified that I had bricked my printer!

So, I disconnected the Bus Pirate and printed another configuration report. Everything looked as I had left it with one exception. Now, the black toner cartridge registered zero pages and 100% remaining toner. And the warning light for the black toner was off… Eureka! (I didn’t really say that, but I think I did run and show my wife who said “That’s nice, honey”. I’m such a nerd.)

So what happened, and how could I now make it happen for the color cartridges, too? I hooked up the scope to the SDA and SCL lines of the bus so I could watch what was happening while booting with the Bus Pirate connected. After a couple of tries, I noticed that the SDA line was being held low by the Bus Pirate (like I said, I’m not sure what mode I had it in). I could see the clock line getting toggled as it booted, but holding the data line low seemed to be interrupting the flow of data between the EEPROM and the main processor. I can only assume that when this happens during a boot up, all of the count variables are left initialized to zero in the main processor’s memory.

So, the idea struck me. What if I interrupt the communications during boot (letting the in-memory values initialize to zero), but then print a page and see if it would run the same incrementing logic and write 1s for the page counts back to the EEPROM. Is double eureka a thing? It worked. All toner levels, page counts, image counts and everything had been written back to the EEPROM as if they had started at zero.

Reset Procedure

After printing a few more pages (and giggling like a child to the wife), I was able to refine the reset process a bit. Here are the steps to perform the reset:

  1. Open the printer and solder a wire to the SDA pin of the EEPROM (see video below)
  2. Power up the printer with this line held to ground until it finishes initializing
    1. You can use chassis near the USB port is an easy spot to ground to.
    2. The printer will take longer than normal to initialize; don’t be alarmed
  3. Disconnect the SDA line from ground
  4. Print the demo page by pushing The Button until you see a slowly blinking green light (about 2 seconds)
  5. Print the configuration page by pushing The Button until you see a rapidly blinking green light (about 6 seconds)
  6. Turn off the power
  7. Turn on the power, and wait for it to initialize
  8. Print the configuration report again
  9. All your base are belong to us


One thing worth noting; my printer still has its original toner cartridges which are “chipless”. Retail replacement cartridges have a chip with its own EEPROM that has a unique identifier and stores its own count. Since I don’t have toner cartridges with these chips, I don’t know (but I suspect) that a different approach or additional steps may be necessary to reset the counts.

You may be able to tape off the exposed pads on the toner chips before performing this procedure and get the same effect, but I haven’t got the chipped cartridges to test with. (nor will I be buying any for $150!) YMMV.

Demo Time!


It took some time to get there, but I think it was worth the effort. This printer is now happily kicking out full-color pages for 2¢ versus a whopping 15¢ (ouch).  Life is good. Enjoy!

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  • Mad Professor

    I have a Samsung CLP-300N, and it uses a PDIP Package: ATMEL 24C64A eeprom, in a socket.
    One of my toners was showing as empty, but if you remove the eeprom chip and power on the printer, it takes longer to boot up, but like your video shows it resets eveything, and is able to print, but as soon as you put the chip back it, and power cycle the printer, it then shows the toner is empty again.
    For now I am just going to leave the eeprom chip out.

    • brian

      It sounds like pulling the SDA line low might work for your printer, too. Let me know how it goes if you decide to give it a try!

      • Karel

        I tried doing it (CLP-300), but now it wont do anything at all anymore. (No LED lights, and the roller only turns 5degrees and makes a click.

        This time the wife wasnt to happy with me >_<

        • printfix

          EEPROM on the CLP-300 is rotated 180 degrees, so SDA pin is on the bottom right. My CLP-300 is working again! See my post below for more details (same date as this post).

        • gt

          Where you able to fix the printer in March or it is completely dead? I have the same problem: No LED lights, and the roller only turns 5degrees and makes a click. Mine is a CLP 315….

          • Laurence Marks

            Hmmm. I’ve done a certain amount of SMT (surface mount technology) rework. Since two of you are reporting the same symptoms, two likely causes occur to me.

            1. You have bridged the SDA pin to which you soldered a wire to the adjacent SCL pin. Get some solder wick (Radio Shack 64-2090 is one source) and place it between the two pins and heat it with your soldering tool. It will wick up the excess solder.

            2. You lifted the SDA pin from the circuit board. Get a soldering probe (to which solder does not stick, like Radio Shack 64-087). Use it to press the IC lead onto the board. You may wish to use it to press on the added wire, sandwiching the IC lead, pressing the stack firmly onto the circuit board. With your other hand, use your soldering pencil to heat the sandwich until the solder melts. Remove the soldering pencil but hold the probe onto the sandwich until it cools.

          • gt

            Hi Laurence, thanks for the answer, I tried with a tester the connections, and all seem good (pins are still attached to the board and they are not bridged in any way).
            My concern is about statics that may have damaged the board. The printer did the boot at the beginning, they I switched the printer off, and turning it on I got the surprise.

          • Steve

            did you ever fix this problem? mine is doing the same thing

      • http://google zachariah

        Hi,am zachary,i own a konica minolta pagepro 1490MF printer.I wanted to know if toner chip for this type of printer can also be reset permanently because am incurring a lot of costs in buying original toner which usually comes with a toner reset card.Please advise me.I just want to be refilling the toner.Thank you.


        HI brian I like your work you are an inspiration
        I been tried your work in my samsung clp 315 and now I have a lexmark ms610 and lexmark cs310 I been trying to hack the chips on the cartridges but no luck may be you can help me on this one

        • Larry M

          Hola Carlos,

          Some other work done on the CLP-315 suggests that the chips on the cartridges are also serial EEPROMs accessed by I2C. It appears that you could determine which pins are which and then make a read/write fixture driven from a PC.

          Read the EEPROMS from four (C, M, Y, K) cartridges and store the data on the PC. When refilling a cartridge, re-write the EEPROM with the data from a new cartridge.

          Further research suggests that some of the EEPROM data relates to efficiency which degrades with the number of refills. The data may include the number of refills and density parameters relating to refills and the characteristics of the specific toner used for refill. You may wish to tweak the parameters–or simply use refilled cartridges instead of new ones for your initial data capture.

          Let us know if you try this and how it comes out.

        • Robert

          Hi Carlos,
          i also got a Lexmark CS310 and CS410 and wondered if you ever found a solution to reset the chips?
          There are several online shops that sell replacement chips, but at exorbitant prices of 20 Euro each !
          One place in Turkey sells a whole microprocessor board for 200 Euro that intercepts the communication between the printer’s logic board the four cartridges — it all seems too complicated …
          Wish there were a simple solution like with the Samsung CLP315 which works beautifully.
          But it seems the Lexmark may use specially encrypted chips, hence the difficulty.

          • Gary

            You wrote this comment and I am wondering if you know how I can purchase this microprocessor and have it delivered to the United States. My printer is the lexmark C540 series. Hope you can help. Thank you.
            “One place in Turkey sells a whole microprocessor board for 200 Euro that intercepts the communication between the printer’s logic board the four cartridges —”

    • userman

      thank bro great post
      it worked

  • steve eh

    Thank you, my toner lights have been blinking for a little while now, i’ve been contemplating what to do about it

    This is great news

  • mistahk

    Hi, I remember fighting with my toner for a while (got hp p1005) for me it was enough to tape both pins of a chip and run the printer.., than take the tape off and it worked later without any probs. My toner is almost finished so I will try it again this time.

  • elamoriaek

    My friend this trick is simply brilliant!
    Just made my old printer ready for refilling.
    Many many thanks.

    • brian

      Awesome! I’m so glad it helped!

  • Jeremy

    Nice work, but how do you know when your other cartridges run low if you’re wiping all of them at once? The color carts don’t have chips in them, even the factory ones. There has to be another trigger to reset the print count on a per cartridge basis.

    • brian

      You nailed it. This particular hack can only reset ALL counts at once. This has some obvious drawbacks. In my case, all the toner lights were blinking, so…

      Regarding missing chips in the color toner cartridges, it is my understanding that only the cartridges that ship with a new printer (ie, the factory ones) are “chipless”. If you purchase any color of retail replacement cartridge, it will likely have a chip in it that stores a unique ID and a count.

      There is undoubtedly a way to reset the counts for a single cartridge, but I only got about halfway there before discovering this hack which worked fine for my purposes (and was much less involved). If you feel like continuing the search, I have links above to the EEPROM dump and write arduino sketches I was playing with at the time. Good luck!

      • Jeremy

        Well I have a refill kit coming, my yellow cart is almost done and my cyan and magenta are next. I think I’m going to purchase a Samsung cart from Staples and check it for a chip. If it has one, I’ll see what all it has stored in it. Each of the carts has a corresponding set of 4 pins connecting to it. I was able to identify the ground pin, but all three of the rest just give a 3.3v positive feed. Two of those three have to be some kind of data in data out and given it’s 3.3v I’m inclined to think it’s either SPI or I2C bus. I tried just experimenting with the pins to see if I could get a reset out of it, but it seems as though anything I did to the yellow carts pins also effected the black (which has a chip). So apparent all the carts are serial connected and probably get distinguished through a chip ID or serial number. This should be fun.

        • brian

          I found this site when researching this hack. It didn’t apply to my situation, but it may interest you.

          If all else fails, you can try to tape off the chip insulating it from the pogo pins on the front cover and run the hack from my post. I’m still curious if it will work after you have printed with a chipped toner cartridge.

          • Jeremy

            Yeah I saw that site, but it refers to the older CLP-300 model which is similar, but the carts are laid out differently. From what I’ve read of the service manual for the CLP-310/315 it sounds like things are about the same with newer hardware. I’ll keep you posted on where I get with this.

      • TheBurg

        Hello Brian
        Many thanks for this, I had the replacement chips on the cartridges and you were right, taping over the pins with insulation tape then following your proceedure for the momentary switch worked fine…………..right first time!!


  • bilt

    I have got the wireless version the clp-315w. The processor board looks slightly different. There is a ST 4256BWP instead of the M24C64. I tried your method before noticing the different chip. The boot up sequence lasted along time but when finished the status led flashed orange. On reboot everything still worked but no totals were changed. I’ll try to get the datasheet for the 4256 to see what pin I was grounding (pin5). Thought you would like to know.

    • brian

      Good to know. I don’t have a 315w to play with and I have been curious what the differences are. I did a quick search for the 4256bwp datasheet and came up empty. Have you had any luck finding one?

      The problem with the approach I took in this post is that it is completely dependent on how the firmware behaves when an EEPROM read failure occurs. In my case I was lucky that it failed gracefully enough to allow you to print afterward.

      Hopefully you can find some info on that EEPROM and start digging in. If grounding the SDA line on boot doesn’t work, you are in for some interesting times. Good luck!

      • Mykal

        Hey, so I successfully did this yesterday on my 315w. Works fine. The main differences are the chip location (much closer to the ribbon cable) and where you have to ground the wire. The chip is in the same orientation, its just about an inch closer to the ribbon and looks a bit smaller. still has 8 pins though. as for a ground I loosened the screw holding the board in place and wrapped the wire around it and screwed it back down. went through the procedure and everything worked like a charm. Lastly, you’ll have to be inventive on where you put the switch, as the nic port blocks that handy spot seen in the video. I haven’t mounted mine just yet, but my plan is to extend the cables a bit and just mount it into the casing spot about the nic port.

        • Evert

          Correct me when wrong, but i read somewhere that if you do “Reset to factory default” in your 315W management webpage, all the page counters are also reset to zero.
          I don’t have a W version, so i can’t confirm that.

          • Mykal

            Ha, I wish it did that. I can only speak for my printer and say that I’ve tried resetting it via the mgmt ui to no avail. Ntm, I’m pretty sure samsung has too much money invested in this printer to simply let an end-user reset it so easily.

          • Fragger

            I’ve got the 315w. I can’t tell that the ‘reset’ function does anything at all. It doesn’t appear to reset wireless settings or anything. I am totally unimpressed with this printer, but my money is already invested, so now I’m looking for solutions to the biggest problems I have with it.

      • Pedro

        Hi everyone, I have a CLP-315W. I follow the procedure that was detailed (thanks for helping with the cause). At first I reset the power holding the push button down (grounding pin 1) until it totally initialize but a got a orange(maybe red) indicator light and the printer will do nothing not even print a demo or configuration page. I got frustrated but I tried few more times and it worked. I need somebody to confirm but this is what I think it work for me:
        I turn off the printer, turn it back on holding the switch down and after around 5 seconds release it and wait until the printer initialize completely and boyla! the printer initialize normal and I had no more blinking toner lights. All the counters reset back to 0 and 100% toner. Something to keep in mind, I was using the factory toner cartridge (no ic on them) and the printer will erase all your wireless configuration(is like a factory reset).
        Good luck and if somebody have success on the 315W and can refine the steps to reset counter procedure will be greatly appreciated. Remember to try more than once it work for me and it wasn’t the first 2 times.
        Thanks Bryan and everyone!

        • Nick

          I was able to confirm what you mentioned. If you have the 315W the process does not work exactly as shown in the video and described in the tutorial. However, you will wire things up the same, aside from finding a different ground due to the LAN socket. In order to get it to reset you will hold the button to ground the chip until it start to make noise. You will have some blinking lights and as soon as they change and the machine starts making noise, let go of the button and let it finish. If you continue to hold the button the buttons stay red and nothing works.
          Hope this helps someone!

          • Ross

            Okay I had the same issue, its easy to fix. When the led shows red simply open then close the toner access door, the led goes green and you can continue with the test page print.

        • Bohdan

          Thank you guys for the instructions for 315w. Grounding the pin for few seconds until the printer started to make noise did the trick. I tried several times grounding it until initialization completes, but would always get a red light with no reset.
          I had some problems however connecting to my wireless router after reset though. I did a bunch of things but I think the key was to disable wireless security on the router and the printer, this allowed the printer to connect wirelessly, then re-enable security and the printer connected with no problems. I described the steps in one of the replies below.
          Thanks Brian for this article.

          • bohdan

            Hi again. I reset my 315w for the second time and again had problems with MAC being all zeros. After playing with it for a while, I came up with the set of updated instruction on fixing wireless MAC problem. They are not perfect yet, since it takes me aver a year to go through the cartridge, so here it goes:

            After clearing EEPROM chip (by grounding 1st pin during boot) the MAC address of the printer is cleared to all zeros.
            I found out that the following procedure restores the MAC address to it’s original value.
            1. Print out the configuration page (press and hold printer button for about 6 seconds) to find out the current IP of the printer.
            2. Connect to the printer using a cross-over network cable. (Or USB cable might work as well, as long as you can get to the configuration webpage, which I’m not sure you can do with USB. If using USB skip step 3)
            3. Set your computers IP to static and on the same network / mask as the current printer IP. (so only the last value of the IP address differs)
            4. Browse to the printer IP in the webbrowser.
            5. This is important: Make sure the printer’s wireless setting is set to airportthru. If it’s not, do the following: Network Settings->Reset-> Factory Default For Wireless Only.
            6. Set the printer’s TCP/IP Address assignment to Static. Set static IP to match your’r router’s network. Set TCP / IP assignment back to DHCP.
            7. (this step might be unnecessary) Connect the printer to the router with LAN cable. Maybe restart the printer. After 10-20 seconds MAC is restored and printer gets a DHCP IP address.
            8. Set printer’s wireless to use your wireless network.
            9. Unplug the LAN cable from the printer and possibly restart.
            10. At this point it should connect to the wireless.

        • dibuntux

          Dear Brian, dear Pedro, thanks a lot for the tricks!
          I installed the switch as per Brian info on my CLP310 and all the lights went red and never turned green. Then I found Pedro’s suggestion; it did not work etither on the 310, but: if you release the button before the lights go red, some 5 seconds after turning on the printer, the lights remain green and flashing for the 1:30 secs long initialize cycle Brian describes. Then you can print the demo page and after the config report, showing all zeros!
          Thanks again!

      • Matt

        Even if your printer is dead to the point of no return (will not even print a demo page) — you can still force the hack to work.

        The trick is, AFTER performing the shorted boot, open both the front and rear covers, and then shut them. This forces the printer to “re-init” which seems to force a re-read of the newly wiped values, thus allowing you to print a color page, then a demo page showing “1” imprint. The subsequent reset works as advertised!

  • bilt

    I found the data sheet it on ST Micro site under M24256-BW. Looks like I was grounding the SDA pin. I think I’ll try the Turkish ebay chip. Also I was reading on another forum, if your counters have not passed 1000. If you lift pin7 and jumper it to pin 8 your counters won’t increase. It’s supposed to disable write access to the eeprom.

    • brian

      I initially used the write protect pin hack (lifting the WC pin and pulling it high) on my printer and it did work for me. Unfortunately, I had already passed the threshold that caused the low toner lights to illuminate.

      The blinking lights are what motivated me to start mapping the EEPROM memory so I could write 0s back into the appropriate locations to “fix the glitch”. I stumbled across the hack documented in this post before I finished mapping all of the pertinent memory locations.

      Good luck in your endeavor and thanks for the new information! I hope the Turkish ebay chip works out for you.

      If you do decide to dig a bit deeper into the information stored on your EEPROM, there is a link in the post to the Arduino sketch I used to dump the memory on mine. At a glance, it looks like the code would only need to be adjusted for the increased memory size. Enjoy!

  • Tek1229

    I also have the CLP-315W.. I also have the 42568wp chip but your method worked first try for me!!! I wonder if bilt didn’t print the demo and config page to update the counter?? If I am reading your explanation correctly it can’t read the counters upon starting up with the pin shorted it assumes a count of zero but doesn’t write to the chip just yet.. You then unground the pin and print a page, this writes 1 to the page count, thereby resetting it to 1..

    Anyways, Awesome find!!!!! I just did a temporary jumper but I am installing a switch tomorrow before re-assembling.. Tek

    • brian

      AWESOME. (c:

    • Javy1389

      can some some one with a 315w show me how they solder to the chip and where they got ground from. thanks

  • Javy1389

    I own a 315w too and i was looking into doing this and i was wondering if it was possible for you to pose a picture of what you did.

    • brian

      I found a picture of the hack before it was finished. I have added it to the gallery in this post and have also posted a higher resolution image here:

      There are arrows pointing to the SDA pin and the ground solder point I used. Hope this helps!

  • Hiraga Saito

    Hi, I donot understand the english at all, but I have the idea to how to do that, and I make it, and I said the same as you: EUREKA!, I have too many problems cuz, mi CLP-315 is OCT-10-2009 Model, and it have protection about your hack, I was need to discover by my way how to solve it, and finally, the CLP-315 was hacked, well my comment, is for give to you the thanks for your tutorial, first i was thinking to make a jumper between pin 8 and 7, to activate the write protection, but your method is best, well, i think its all, sorry for my bad english, and greetings from méxico!, I repeat: Thank You Very Much! see ya!

    • brian

      I’m so glad this helped you. Thank you for the kind feedback! (c:

  • nat

    Hi Brian,

    Thanks for sharing this. Worked a treat on my CLX-3170FN – I had to do a different process to restore the factory settings (via the menu), and instead of printing a demo page (doesn’t seem to be one on the CLX-3170), I did this:

    Short out the pins as you describe (I shorted pins 4 and 5 with some test probes – 4 being ground) while the printer boots.

    Then do this procedure:

    then just hit the copy-colour button.

    re-set network settings, manually set IP addres.


    Job’s a good’un. All counters reset. (I printed out the actual numbers before I did this for my own records)

    I also fitted a push-button as you did so I won’t have to open it up next time.

    This is BETTER THAN A RESET CHIP because, as I understand it, with the reset chips, you often have to do some silly procedure each time the printer is power cycled – not so with this method – only when you want to reset everything again.

    I’ve ordered some toner refill from ebay in Germany for something silly like £3 for all 4 toner bottles.

    makes this cheap little printer super cheap to run! (i’ve had mine since 2008 and it’s still working well – I was still on my original colour carts, and only my second black cart – note that I’ve swapped back to my original black cart since I did the reset – I suspect if I had kept the black toner cart with the chip in, it would have remembered the black was running out – to get around this, I’d have had to put some tape over the chip or removed the chip – then it would look to the printer like it was the chip-less cart)

    You’re a hero.


    • brian

      Excellent. This is a great success story. Thanks for sharing!

    • francois


      I omn a clx-3175fn too and i was looking into doing this and i was wondering if it was possible for you to pose a picture of what you did.
      thank jou

    • visarion

      hy can u locate for me the parts for clx 3185
      i dont know wich is the eeprom to wire
      pls contact me

  • zack free

    I have to say this worked 100% with my CLP-315w, even with the 42568wp chip. All I did was popped the cover and fasten one end of the wire to the ground screw and held the other end at top left leg of the chip. One thing is the chip on the 315w is to the right more but it is the same leg you picture in your photo. Second: I taped over the chips on the Toner cartridges to simulate his procedure. Total time to cycle while shorting out the leg is about 45 seconds, so if you do not have a steady hand I would solder. I didn’t have any luck soldering on the wire so that is why I did it this way. But I will confirm again, This works on a 315w w/ OS Version v1:00.01.28.x Jan 13 2009, all back to 100%, After printing an info sheet, just as described, powered off and back on & all is back to normal with 100% just like the day I bought it.
    I spent days researching and was almost going to buy the resetter on Ebay or buy Firmware Fix, FORGET IT, this works for sure!
    Best of luck everybody!!!!

    • brian

      That’s two successful resets reported on the CLP-315W by my count. Thanks for documenting your experience here!

    • fred

      Zack, after looking at the logic diagram of the M24256-BW i see that the top left pin is E0 – Pin 1 – which is called Chip Enable, not ground. The ground pin appears to be Pin 4, counting down counter clockwise from the top left, so it appears in the bottom left corner as V(ss). — Was up? i don’t have any electronic experience, that’s why i’m asking before sticking wires on to places that they shouldn’t be.

      Another thing, it looks like you did not close the case up. Is this true? You said ” fasten one end of the wire to the ground screw and held the other end at top left leg of the chip.” Will the printer run like this?

      Have a wonderful afternoon! :)

    • thamcore

      what is the resetter?
      what is the firmware fix?
      I am not very technical and am looking for an easy fix, even if it costs something

  • Javy1389

    i want to thank everyone for their help and im here to say i am now one of the 315w with a successful reset

  • Ryan Gibson


    This is a great hack. I bet Samsung never expected this type of printer hack :) Do you have an email I can contact you on? Love your work and want to throw past a few ideas to you.



  • Joey Jan

    I have a clp-315 and used this hack successfully with chipped cartridges. I have the chips taped up, then did your hack and all my cartridges are now showing 100% and 1 page count!

    So happy this worked, i bought the same ebay toner as you, but didn’t realized i had chipped cartridges, but this made it work fine so i guess if the printer has less than 1k pages it doesn’t need the cartridge chips.

    • brian

      So glad that this hack helped you out. I have noticed that the color of cheap replacement toner isn’t quite as rich, but to me it is totally worth the savings. Thanks for the feedback!

      • Joey jan

        I have a photo printer for images i need to look good. For me the extend of color printed is pie charts and line graphs so 20$ cant be beat.

        I plan on opening the printer back up and doing this to it
        It will write protect the eeprom and then i wont even need the switch anymore.

        • brian

          I am familiar with that post and have successfully applied the method to my printer (it was the first hack I tried, in fact). For me, it was more useful for the page counters to continue working after the hack so I know when it is time to think about ordering toner. Since the counters are so easy to reset, I left the write protect pin as-is. Thanks for the link!

  • John

    I already tried the hack about 20 days ago on two printers.

    I first tried it on my 2nd 315 (the same board with yours). The red led was already for black toner (about 700p printed, 2% remaining). The CMY toners were about20-30 pages 85-90% remaining – I used the printer usually for black text pages).

    So, the hack didn’t worked at all, Obviously because of the “on” flag for “empty” initial black cartridge. At the start of progress (after 5-10 seconds) the green led turned orange (or red?) , anyway I continued keeping the two points joint but with no luck at the end. Tried and 2nd time, the same. :(

    Then I tried on my 1st – older 315, different board, but the same 24c64 chip. Toner levels were fine there, all above 50%, page counters about 300-400 on all toners, with no red led and empty toner flag. (initial toners there, too).

    The hack there worked perfect like your video shows.

    I guess that if a flag of empty toner is on, then the hack doesn’t work, maybe because some register value has changed. Someone with empty toner led on could also “confirm” my assumption.

    (you can remove these posts of me from youtube, as I just visited this page, saw the comments and thought here is the place to be. Also sorry for my bad English)

    Thank you very much for one more time brian! 😉

    • brian

      When I started this project, the solid red light was on for the black toner and it still worked for me. Does your toner cartridge have a chip? If so, you might try putting tape over the contacts and running the hack again. As always, your mileage may vary, try at your own risk… Good luck!

      • Javy1389

        my black toner had over 1000 pages on it but i put tape on it and the hack work just fine

      • John

        As I said at the middle of my previous comment all eight cartridges are initial, no chip on them, so all the data are stored at printer’s board.
        So it is strange that worked for you but not for me. Obvious must be a difference on model – version.
        Here is some data/feedback of my two black clp-315 I own:
        Hack worked on the older one : OS version V1.29.01.23 engine version 1.77.74.T(55)
        Hack didn’t worked on newer one: OS version V1.29.11.52 engine version 0.00.61.T(55)
        SPL-C version is the same on both.

        Model name on configuration report: older = CLP-310 series / Newer = CLP-310 series (V)

        • Tapani

          I tried this hack with my clp-315. Hack didn’t work for my printer.

          I also have these versions on my printer: OS version V1.29.11.52 engine version 0.00.61.T(55)

          • Jonas

            I used Gaasman’s instructions:
            Gaasman on April 10, 2012 at 10:45 am said:

            Great hack. I have 2 clp 315w and 2 clp300. I just followed the instruction and twist a wire wrap wire around pin 5 and touched ground/ metal on boot up. Wait for three blinks and release.

            .. It took a couple tries to get the timing right. After that I lifted the WP pin on the eeprom and shorted it to vcc. The printer always resets to one page on each cartridge after powerup now!

  • JJ

    Worked like a champ! Thanks!

  • Gaasman

    Great hack. I have 2 clp 315w and 2 clp300. I just followed the instruction and twist a wire wrap wire around pin 5 and touched ground/ metal on boot up. Wait for three blinks and release. Didn’t even install a momentary switch. Print color demo page and done. All zeroed. Now I just buy clp 300 toners from Amazon for $23 set of four with clp 300 chips. Take the left over clp 300 toner and dump that in clp 315w. Unlimited printing. Thanks again…

    • brian

      W00t. Bulk hacking! (c:

  • amit

    i have a CLP-315W and i was having some issues where the printer would go in standby and only way to bring it back was restart. i figured i do a firmware upgrade. i did and after doing that the printer is not being recognized by my pc or the light on the printer wont go on. only hear a click when i turn it off. any way to redo the firmware or anything i can do to bring printer back to life? please help.

  • Ray

    Hi Tried to update firmware on CLP-315W via USB and apparently bricked printer…any idea how I can recover?

  • Christian-Marco

    Hey guys!

    I tried it on my CLX-3175FN. It works if you never used toner with chip. Once i bought new toner for my printer (color). The black toner is resetted (100%) and nearly all other counters.

    Problems: all 3 color toner & AVE-Scan-Counter. Any idea?

    Important @ CLX-3175FN [firmware V1.29.01.57.FN]: reset everything by using tech-menu (#1934).

  • RG

    Hey guys, thanks for all the info.

    I will be trying this on my 315w soon and just wanted to know if any toner is better quality-wise than others out there or are they all about the same? My cartridges are original, chipless. My black is at 18%, Yellow at 47%, Magenta 62% and Cyan 55%. Having never refilled toner I’m assuming I can just refill partway as well?

    Thanks again!

    • brian

      The bulk color toner that I purchased from eBay wasn’t quite as bright/rich as the Samsung toner. It still looked fine, just not quite as vibrant. The black toner wasn’t quite as dark, but it was barely noticeable. Regarding partial refill, my cartridges were nearly empty when I refilled. I did notice a strange stain-like effect that I assume was the two toners mixing. For me, this effect has since disappeared over time. If it were me, I would wait until the toner is as empty as possible before refilling to minimize this effect. Hope this helps!

  • Tom

    Hi Brian,

    Thanks for this great tip!

    I have a Samsung CLP-315w which I just finished hacking and it now works better than ever. I had basically the same experience as Zack Free. It had the 4256BWP chip; I soldered a wire to the top left pin; attached another wire to the top right motherboard screw; I attached both of those to a switch that I picked up at Circuit City (formerly Radio Shack). Then I taped the switch to the motherboard right next to the ethernet port and filed out a slot in the plastic casing right through the power button opening and into the unused space above the ethernet port. Then finally I popped the casing back on and screwed on the switch’s on/off faceplate. I also stuck a little piece of cardboard in the black toner contacts.

    I was motivated to take on this project because my printer had stopped printing. It would still print out the info pages but only if you used the web interface; holding the button for 6 seconds did nothing. Way back when I installed the first replacement black (authentic Samsung) toner it didn’t reset the counters, so the ink level still showed 0%. Every time I printed for over a year it complained that my ink levels were low, until a few weeks ago—at 2453 black pages and my second black replacement toner—it stopped printing.

    Booting with the ground-hack on set all levels to 100% and all page counts to 1 as expected. Then rebooting with the ground-hack off left only the black level at 100% (page count 3). Yellow, Magenta, and Cyan remained as they were before at 48% (page count 523). Perhaps this is because I am still on my original colour toners.

    Anyway, everything seems to be working great.

    Main Firmware Version : V1.01.01.23.W Sep-17-2008
    Network Firmware Version : V4.01.01(CLP-310W) 06-03-2008
    Engine Firmware Version : 1.77.74
    SPL Firmware Version : SPL-C 5.35 11-20-2007

    Thanks for all the help.

    • Nghia Bui

      Hi Brian,

      I have my CLP_315W with the v1.01.01.28(LF) and the U1 = 4256BWP ST K934H. I did try solder the blue wires from pin5 (SDA) and pin4 (VSS=ground) to the push switch which mounted to printer and isolated the toner chip at the contactors pads. Power up while pushing the reset switch 45 seconds. My printer acting normal with all the toner LED off, Blue LED wi-fi on, but the bottom LED show red all times and printer couldn’t print the sample print. I did not know why my printer has the LED on red instead green? Can you help me for the issues.
      Thank You..
      Nghia Bui

  • Nick Higgins

    Thanks for this. Can confirm it works on a CLP-320. Also resets the drum counter which is what i was trying to do. Drum counter reset and emptied and printer is working again. Cheers.

  • brian

    Awesome. I love hearing other’s success stories. Thanks!

  • DanielS

    @Nick Higgins: can you tell us the firmware version on your CLP-320?

    I have seen reports that this hack doesn’t work on CLP-32x series, maybe Samsung “fixed” this in newer firmwares.

  • Abraham

    I wanted to help out some people hacking the CLP-315w. At first I had problems performing the hack since I got all the led on after 3 blinking, I went and grounded the pin only for the first 3 blinks, after that I took off the ground and waited for the 45 sec cycle. After that I printed out the configuration page and all had 100% Cool I said to my self I´ll show my wife, buy after turning off the printer and starting it back again all the values except for the black one went back to original %, black was 100%. I tried it again, same procedure but the only diference I made was that after printing the configuration page I printed out the sample page by pressing the triangle for just a couple of seconds, this in fact did the reset of all the cartridges!!!!! Thanls for the hack and saving all of us some money.

    • brian

      I was roadblocked on the color toner levels myself for awhile when working on this hack. Glad it worked out for you! (c:

    • Tony

      I have a 315W which had color toner LEDs set and a replacement black cartridge still OK. I taped the black cartridge and this hack worked for me when all the previous methods failed.

      A big Thank You to everyone.

  • Alan_F

    Hi Brian great hack, but one thing to mention i did it how you said on the video, but i later realised you dont wait till it has finished making a noise, on mine i had to do the three blinks of the main green light (which is orange for the first two times blinking. then it worked a treat, i am on a CLP 315 which is dated 2010 and with the (v) after the name
    just so it helps!

    and cheers Brian


  • Wes_B

    I have Sammy CLP-315 (v) manufacture date Feb 2010.This method worked for me. Originally it wasn’t working till I saw Gaasman post about the “THREE BLINKS” and released the ground. I will probably add a switch in the near future. Thanks everyone, your going to save me a ton of money.

    I was over 1100 on black and cyan and 600 on the others.

    • nick h

      this is the same method i used for the clp 320. i had 6 in work all with the drum on max usage. when they get like this it was cheaper to buy a new printer than buy a new drum. all 6 are now working again by shorting pin 4 to ground. i bought a toner replacement soldering iron. made a hole in the drum and emptied the waste toner away and pluged the hole with a gromet. printers are as good as new.

      • Secula

        Pin 4 is ground pin; what do you mean?

  • AB

    This data zeroing is really a great idea (wonder what condition would have the manufacturer thought to allow this?!).
    I’m going to try the hack and report back on my CLP-310N.
    However, just one comment on the method of estimating the toner consumption. The processor could also look on actual page data and estimate the color/black density. A recent post of a fellow having mostly black consumption reported correctly, indicates that there is not only about, the page count, accompanied by a statistical ratio.
    Eager to try the hack… 😀

  • Dai101

    GREAT!!!!!!! I just bougth one of this used and the drum is above 50% of it’s capacity. Thanks to this i can reset it and keep printing. THANKS!!! Greetings from Mexico.

  • Nolan

    Just tried this on two CLP-315w printers I have. The first one with firmware V1.01.01.28.W Jan-13-2009 worked great and all counters are now back at 0. The second printer has firmware version V1.01.01.60.W Mar-25-2010 and the reset trick did not work. The printer did take longer to boot but the status light turned red about halfway through and stayed that way, not allowing me to print the demo page. In the first printer I had been through a set of toner and refilled and stuck chips on each one that I got from 123refills in addition to an OEM black toner cartridge from samsung. Simply removing the chips from these allowed the hack to work in the first printer.

  • kiki604

    Brian thank you for your great work

    It works on a clp315, OS version v1.00.11.53.X October-10-2009

  • 002xM

    I have two CLP-315w. I was able to reset the counter on one of my by pulling SDA low during startup. I noticed that the ST 4256BWP chip’s rotated 180deg from what was shown in the photos of the CLP-315’s board. As far as I can tell, pin 1 indicated by a small dot, is upper left, making SDA, pin 5, at lower right. By resetting the eeprom, all of my wireless settings were reset, including MAC address. I tried using the set IP utility to restore the MAC, but it’s not accepting. I might try on my other -315W, but having two devices with 0000000000 MAC might be a bad idea..

    • 002xM

      By the way, my OS version is V1.00.01.14.X Jun-02-2008. It also looks like the USB serial number is cleared.

      • pcsrule

        I tried this and got the same result, MAC address is all 0’s. This would be ok, but I can’t seem to get wifi to connect now. Have you had any luck?

        • Bohdan

          Initially I got the same issue with my 315w. However at the end I was able to connect the printer to my wireless network.
          Here are the steps I did:
          After the hack the printer created airportthru Ad-Hoc. I connected to the printer with a cross-over ethernet cable and reconfigured it to use my wireless router, but it would not connect. MAC was all 0’s. I connected the printer to the router with an ethernet cable and it successfully connected. I tried again with wireless – did not work. Then I changed security settings on my router to Open System (no security), did the same on the printer and voila – the printer’s on the network. After re-enabling encryption on both router and the printer, my printer connected with no problems.
          I’m not sure which steps above are important, most likely disabling the security – connecting – and reanabling security.
          Another detail, I had my router DHCP setup to always issue the same IP to printer’s MAC address.

          • David

            It reset MAC to 0s after toner reset.
            This trick did not work for me. However, after restarting my printer a few times, it restored the MAC address and wireless connection started to work.
            So all you need is probably restarting it a few times.


    • Julius

      Hello, I too now have a similar printer (CLP-300N) with MAC address that is all zero.If you have figured out how to restore the MAC address I’d be very grateful. Email your instruction to cmdrdata -at- mail -dot- com. Thanks.

  • Levi


    I followed your steps and I get all of my toner LEDs lighting up red instead of green. I can not print a test page and send a new value to the eeprom so when I reboot everthing is back to the way it was. I have tried this a few times now and everything is as you describe right up until it finishes booting (takes about a minute with SDA held to ground) and I noticed that all the toner lights stay red and it won’t respond. I noticed the John had this same problem in March.

    Update: I got it to work by holding the SDA to ground ONLY until the LED light turns green then you MUST remove it from ground for my model or all the LEDs turn red and it will not respond (so you can not write to the EEPROM). It still takes a long time to boot, but you do not have to have the SDA connected to ground while it finishes booting. My model info:

    OS version V1.01.11.52
    engine version 0.00.61.T(55)
    SPL-C version 5.35 11-20-2007

    Once I successfully wrote to the EEPROM the page count was not the only number changed. Mine now reads:

    engine version 0.00.61.T(0)

    • Tapani

      I had these vesions:
      OS version V1.29.11.52 May-01-2009
      engine version 0.00.61.T(55)
      SPL-C version 5.35 11-20-2007

      I did like you did, pulling sda to ground only untill the led goes green first time. I had my toner remaining counter like this before the hack:
      Yellow: 43%
      Magnenta: 45%
      Cyan: 18%
      Black: 0%

      After I did this procedure I had all counters 100%. But after restarting, toner counters were like before hack execpt the Black which was 100%. All other counters were also reseted.

    • John

      Dear Levi, thank you!
      Getting back my 2nd 315 from the closet, and after looked at this page and found this reply of yours, I finally managed to reset this one also!

      You are absolute right about the timing on this model!

      Thank you again! :)

      Greetings from Athens, Greece!

  • Alejandro

    Hi Brian, I have a CLP-325 you don’t have a clue if this hack works for me too, im afraid to mist up my printer hahahah in fact I have two, one at work and another at my hose and Im tiered of using ink printers and now geting poor with the toner hahahah, by the way, god job with the reserch ang the explicity of the post.
    (NOTE: Im in Guatemala and here the toner’s price is around $200 the set.)

    • Brian

      I wish I could say I knew that it would work on the CLP-325, but I don’t have one to work with. Sorry! If you decide to look into it yourself, let me know how it goes! (c:

      • Dave

        I’ve got a clp-325w/xac model (actually (2) of them now…
        I’ve opened one up and am looking for this eeprom (42568wp chip or a 24c64 chip ?) but don’t see it . I’m assuming that this would be still be an eight leg chip? And would follow that I would need to ground pin #5. BUT – There are (4) different eight leg chips on the board…and none of them has the above numbers.

        Any guesses on: 24512wp, or 92121, or z127 or st1s10

      • Alejandro

        Hi Brian, I find the EEPROM chip and make the conection to ground, when I turn on the printern it doesn’t finish to boot and reset again, I left it for half hour and nothing, keep rebooting, when I disconect the cable to grond and turn up the printer again it was the same way befor the hack, I was reading and some ones says that these model have a backup chip. So form me it doesn’t work, I keep tring and if I find anithing I’ll post it here.
        And if you find anithing for the clp-325 let me know please,

  • JQ

    Just wanted to let you know … completely bricked (past counters, 5215 pages somehow) 315w with all red lights lit finally locked itself out and wouldn’t print.

    I used a multimeter on “amps” to make the connection. I tried about five times and it did nothing.

    Then I saw someones post about removing the jumper after three blinks. I did that twice, then I noticed someone else said you could still print a stats page from the web interface — so I rebooted it again with pin shorted, printed a stats page from the web interface, printed a demo, and then rebooted.

    ZERO’s across the board! I was ready to actually buy chipped cartridges. How I got so many pages w/o the lockout in the first place is beyond me, but I have a before and after stats page to show for it!

    Amazingly simple great trick. Now I can love the Sammy again!

    PS — on a 315w, ALL network settings [I think just all settings, period are wiped] are reset to some ridiculous settings, requiring some simple knowledge of networking to put yourself on that subnet and change it back — win!

    • Julius

      Hemh, can you provide info on how to modify that and restoring the MAC ADDRESS? Mine is similarly messed up. What tool did you use?

  • robert

    hey Brian, i have the CLP-310 the board on mine looks different then on the video the p/n on the chip is clp-315w/xaa. the NIC firmware is V4.01.00(CLP-310W) 05-23-2008, need you help..

  • CJDavE

    Hey. I have a CLP-310 w/ the following stats:

    OS: V1.00.11.53.x Oct 10-2009
    Engine: 0.00.62.T(55) (which changed to (0) and stayed that way after my first unsuccessful reset)
    (USB Serial Number was blanked out on the first config report after the first power cycle (see step 5 above), but returned after turning the printer off then on again)

    Had an issue using the original instructions since holding the SDA pin to ground until the printer stops spinning just results in all LEDs being lit up red.

    What worked: holding SDA to ground (like a few people did above) until the third blink after turning the power on. It required two or three tries, but it finally worked.

    All values restored to 100% successfully. Thanks to all the detectives above and Brian: this just saved me the money to have the firmware flashed. Now I can buy the cheap refills and be done with it. 😀

  • Kevin in Maine

    Brian..You’re the MAN.. I have 2 CLP-315s, bought second one used with no toner after drum expired on first, been buying new carts all along – prob 4 sets by now. Now 2nd (used) imaging drum expired , and could not get either printer to work again.. Had a hard time at first because apparent driver trouble would not indicate problem with drum. Found this wonderful post when searching for new imaging units, and not wanting to pay the $130++. The trick for me after several attempts was to tape off the 4 (fairly new) cartridges, and then open the SDA line after first 3 blinks like someone else pointed out. Tempted to pull the tape off to see what happens, but why ruin a good EUREKA. Could not get to reset with chips in carts “online”. Now I can get a fresh set of cartridges for 2nd used printer, and have two working units..THANKS VERY MUCH!

    • Kevin in Maine

      And yes thanks to all in this thread for finding the tricks..My experience just like CJDavEs. I did pull the tapes off, but did not get a green LED afterwards. After re-taping and NOT resetting she came right back…Thanks again

  • Stephan

    Did the Mod following the instructions on a CLP-315 10min ago. Works like a charm. Thx for sharing. For me a better option that unsolder the WP-Pin. For a mod of the eeprom data is imho a good starting point. First I want to do the method in this website, but your reset-mod is for me even better. 😀

  • Gessy

    Thanks for sharing this! I have a CLP-300 and can’t wait to hack it. I also have a Samsung ML1860 do you think this hack will work for it too?

  • feltom

    Please confirm, the idea works for cpl-320 firmware v1.00.01.43?

  • Chaozza

    Thanks for this great share!! saved me $40 by not buying one of those permanent reset chips! BTW I have the samsung CLP-315W on firmware V1.01.01.28.W Jan-13-2009, and this reset method still keeps the wi-fi & network settings!!, What I love about this reset method is that it still incrementally decreases the toner percentage! hence giving me notice when to refill my toners =)

  • Sandy L

    Thanks so very much for posting this Hack.. I have the CLP-315W that came with the chips on the toner cartridges and mine is network compatible. There is some difference in the look of the motherboard, however, the Eprom was in the same general location. I found that I had to tape over the chips on the toner cartridges to get it to work. Also.. I had to leave the hack enabled. Originally when I enabled the hack, everything reset to zero..then when I disabled it and rebooted like you showed, it went back to blinking red lights and yellow status and would not properly reboot. I just ended up leaving the hack enabled. It works just fine right saved my butt big time. Thanks so very much. Your explanation and video was very clear and very well done. :-)

  • Alejandro Erickson

    I tried jumping the DO pin to the GND pin on the Windbond eeprom
    in a samsung ml-2165w, but it detected the short and refused to turn on. It was naïve pattern matching on my part; do you think there is a similar hack for the ml-2165?

  • adam

    I am a straight guy, and I can confidently say I LOVE YOU MAN!
    you are just awesome the hack worked, but I had to follow the 3 blinks then release on first green light method, because one of my toners was at 0%.

    again, I LOVE YOU :)

  • adam

    I am having a hard time trying to solder the connection. I am afraid i am just going to melt the chip. I can see yours is also sort of melted. but how did you do it?

  • Heinz Wielage

    Hi Brian,
    I have the CLP 315 and have used your reset method.
    The Initialisierug hatt lasted longer, but nothing has changed.
    The printer light all LEDs constant.

    Now my question:
    Could you give me the contents of the EEPROM 24C64 before and after the reset as a “bin file” to send?
    I hope that I can then find the error.

    please excuse my bad English.

    My thanks in advance!


  • Matt

    I am curious… My printer is the CLP-315W … It is telling me to replace the imaging unit… does this hack reset imaging unit counts too? … or is it only for the toner carts? …

    • Brian

      For my printer, it reset the counts for everything (imaging unit included). I would expect that you would see the same results, but I don’t have that exact printer model. Good luck!

  • Rocketblitz

    Thanks a lot… I have a CLP-315W with OS v1.00.01.23.x Sep-17-2008. I grounded the SDA pin 5 for the 3 orange blinks until LED turned green and otherwise followed your instructions and it worked great.

    Here is a link to the data sheet for ST chip 4256BWP:

  • Nghia Bui

    Hi Brian,

    I have my CLP_315W with the v1.01.01.28(LF) and the U1 = 4256BWP ST K934H. I did try solder the blue wires from pin5 (SDA) and pin4 (VSS=ground) to the push switch which mounted to printer and isolated the toner chip at the contactors pads. Power up while pushing the reset switch 45 seconds. My printer acting normal with all the toner LED off, Blue LED wi-fi on, but the bottom LED show red all times and printer couldn’t print the sample print. I did not know why my printer has the LED on red instead green? Can you help me and show me how to make it alive?.
    Thank You..
    Nghia Bui

    • Brian

      I don’t have the wifi model to test with and haven’t run into that problem. Sorry, Nghia! Some are having better luck releasing the SDA pin after three blinks instead of waiting for the init routine to finish. I haven’t tested this method, but it is probably worth a try if you are having trouble. Hope you are able to find your way around the problem!

  • Heinz Wielage

    Hi Brian,
    I try again.
    I hope my English is better now.
    I have the CLP 315th
    The name on the IC is 24C64
    The printer all LEDs are red.
    I used your method reset.
    The initialization took longer, like you said!
    It has, however, nothing changed, all the LEDs light up red.

    can you help me?

    my thanks!


    • Brian

      Unfortunately, I have never run into the problem you are describing. Sorry! If you have made it past the long init routine, be sure to print the black & white settings page and the full color demo page. Those steps are what actually write the new values back to the EEPROM. Good luck, sir!

      • Kevin in Maine

        I wonder if folks having trouble have tried to release the ground after 3 green blinks. Took me a few tries to get it, then worked great…thanks again

    • adam

      I think what you need to do is follow Brian’s method with a slight modification. LIke others did, you have to disconnect after the 3 three first blinks, that is as soon as you see the green light break the connection and wait for the process to finish.

      I was having the same problem as you, but after following the above method it worked for me.

  • Evert

    Works for my CLP-315 !
    Great, thanks for sharing.
    Big waste to dump the printer after 600 color pages, now it can print another xxxxxx pages for me.

    • Brian

      I agree. Glad the hack worked out for you!

  • Evert

    Just some thinking;
    If the I²C bus in the door, for the cartridges, is the same I²C bus as on the motherboard, you don’t even have to open the printer. Sda can be grounded then in the door.

    • Brian

      Good grief. Why didn’t I think of that!? I’m going to crack this thing open and see if it is indeed the same bus. If so, it may be possible to perform this hack with a piece of foil tape or a paperclip… exciting. I’ll report my findings. Thanks for the tip, Evert! (c:

    • Brian

      Sadly, the cartridges are not on the same bus. There was no continuity between the SDA pin on the EEPROM and any of the pins on the door. Oh well. Thanks anyway! -B

      • manohar

        do you have any solution for clp-326

        • Dave

          Yes – Someone PLEASE experiment with the CLP-325 printer, we have different chips (numbers) but I’m sure that one of them performs the same function as the CLP-315 chips…

          • Paul

            Hi there, I’m going to crack open my CLP-325N (non- WiFi) during the coming week and I’ve just got a question re the chip – are the pins always numbered the same way? And what clues do you find to know which way is ‘north’ or ‘south’?

          • Dave

            Paul – did you ever get around to trying? I’d be interested to see how far you got.

          • Paul

            No, not yet. I can’t see myself being able to devote the time until the weekend, if I’m honest :(

  • Fragger

    Can someone tell me if this process does a complete factory reset? I’m interested in network settings being reset to factory defaults. Can someone confirm, please?

  • Jeff Ferguson

    Friggin GENIUS!!! Thanks for solving this problem and allowing all to see. FYI, although my CLP-315 was about a 2008 firmware, I also needed to use the “Release after 3 blinks” method to get the counter reset to work properly.

  • harish

    how to Samsung ml1911 toner resat on chip

  • Tomal

    I have a Samsung SCX-3201.
    I tried many ways to reset the chip but no success. In my printer, the chip is EEPROM 2404. I dumped the toner chip to my PC after printing of two pages and found that incriments are in different locations (like in your case). I flashed all 0 and all FF but nothing helped. Printer doesn’t recognize the toner so I have reflash the dump. But an interesting thing I have noticed that there are some values (remains unchanged) and they looks like some serial no. I can remove the most (filling 0 or FF) except those, printer still recognize my toner and prints. Though counter remains the same.

    Any suggestion guys….

  • Nate

    It worked!!! Mine will reset without turning the power off, just hit the button and open/close the front toner door. Thanks man!

  • Kano Seeuw


    As the method on described did not work on my printer (clp325w) I tried something else. Its called a firmware fix. Basically its a firmware update for your printer wich installs an altered firmware. This firmware resets every time you power cycle the printer. It also does not reset my wifi settings every time I put it on/off.
    So far I am very pleased with this method and wanted to you share it with the other people whom’s printer can not be fixed with the method described above.

    • Dave

      This is exactly what my CLP325W printer needs…I’ve been trying to reset the toner cartridges for several days, but we have different chipsets than the CLP315 models.

      Would you most kindly share this link / procedure with me?? I would even pay a small amount of $ to reset it…

  • Rade

    Well you are a king.Just did it and works no problem.Mine is the same printer but the layout of board is diferent so I was looking for U1 eprom chip which was more to right hand side.I realy appreciate it!!!!

  • fred

    o.k., i’ve managed to get the right side open, but the MB looks different. This is a CLP-315W and i see two chips that have 8 legs each, one labeled U1 and the other U3. Am i in the ballpark or do i need to look for another chip? One of them (U3) says LM383 on it. Would it be helpful if i uploaded a photo?

    All of my cartridges are now 123PrinterRefill or something like that, each with its own chip. The printer has stopped printing and will not print even a Test Page or Configuration page. i’m running PCLinuxOS 2012 and the Samsung Universal Printer Utility which of course won’t give much info since i’ve got all those hacked cartridges in there – lol. i’ve refilled all of the empty or almost empty cartridges.

    Have a great afternoon and thanks for posting such a great hack!

    • fred

      o.k. After more Googleing, i’ve found out i need to locate the U1 chip. With much squinting and a magnifying glass i see that it says 4265BWP so perhaps i’m in the ballpark.

      Since i can’t solder something this small, maybe i can find fine strand wire to wrap around the first wire (uppper left hand corner).

      Any ideas? Are we getting there?

      Have a wonderful afternoon!

      • fred

        Above i posted about a confusion between grounding the Ground post – Pin 4 and grounding Pin1. After reading this blog some more i’ve discovered that i’m supposed to be grounding the Data line, which is Pin1 – duh!

        i’ve covered the four chips and closed the door. i still have to find a wire but i think we’ve got this thing going… We’ll see.

        Thanks for the blog – comments section.

        Have a great afternoon! :)

        • fred

          Yea!!! Success!!!

          Well, it was Pin 1, upper left hand corner of chip U1. Had to make sure the chips on the cartridges were covered and now i suppose i can take the chips out. The front cover needs to be closed over the cartridges of course and i found that the top – where the paper comes out – needs to be replaced for this to work as well. The side panel needs to be off to manipulate the wire, which i just connected to a grounded screw to the right of some nasty looking copper coils and whose other end i just touched to P1 and started the printer. Only needed to touch it some 3 seconds before releasing it and letting the printer complete its setup, which took some 45 seconds, as mentioned in a previous post.

          Now, all i have to do is see if i can replace the side panel. It was pretty hairy getting it off.

          Anyway, thanks Brian for your original post and for all the others who have contributed to making this a really simple and money-saving hack.

          Have a great evening! :)

  • S S

    I hope you’re told often how awesome you are. I had my 315 sitting under my bed doing nothing for the past 3 years because the cartridge was too expensive. And now I run into this while trying to do something similar to my 2165. And it works EXACTLY as you said. All counts are back to zero and I’m going to order some more toner to bring this back to life. I have no brains for this stuff but I find it fascinating. Computer HW has always baffled me. Glad there are people like you out there who take the time to not only solve the problem, but document it in such a thorough way that any novice can have a go.


  • Dave

    Hey Brian
    I have a CLP 315w and I want to do this hack but my error is to replace the imaging unit and also replace the toner waste bin? I cleaned out the toner waste bin and I still get the error and the imaging unit. What do you think I need to do. Thanks


    • ThomasJ

      Hey Dave, likely too late to help you now, but may help someone in the future.

      On my 325W, the printer complained of a full toner waste bin even after dumping it all out (into a garbage can, upwind on a windy day, while holding my breath!).

      Blowing the waste bin out with compressed air solved the problem, and has worked fine for months now… I havent confirmed, but I assume the printer (325 at least…) uses an optical eye to determine waste levels.

  • Markus

    Great! Works like a charm!
    Tested on CLP-315 with non original toners.
    I’ve just insulated the front panel toner contacts to avoid communication with the printer, so you can use both original or non original cartridges.
    Now I’m ready to refill lifetime!
    Thanks a lot for your precious work!
    Markus, Italy.

  • Manos

    Perfect !!! It works fine.
    Thank you!
    Success with the first time. My CLP-315 can print again unlimited pages.
    No more chips. Just refill. I’ ve just followed you awesome and detailed instructions.
    Manos from Greece

  • M D P

    Thank you so much for sharing your information.

    It’s really ridiculous the way the Samsung is making money from these printers.

    they could just sell toner powders.

    Thanks again.

    It works like a charm.

  • Palanzana

    Hi, do you know some software to change the firmware?

  • TOM

    Just as a warning to others: This procedure seems to damage the chip used in D104 Toner for the ML-Series
    I tried it on a spare toner chip with my ML-1660

    With the GND connection in place the printer showed an error (red LED on, the ML1660 has no display) which even stayed after removing the connection. (this is the same behavior like when there is no toner cartridge at all)
    The chip is useless now. And I also cannot print the configuration page anymore.

    The printer is fine: other chip same toner and It prints as before.

    The original chip was marked “92121 q103” and I could not find a datasheet.
    The markings on the replacement chip had been removed (milled away or so)


  • Paul

    Hi, fascinating stuff here, but scant mention of the CLP 325N. Will the pin > ground fix work for it? Or would the second method, freeing pin 7 and soldering it to pin 8 suffice?

    Thanks, Paul

    • Dave

      Yes – someone PLEASE play around with the CL325 printer chips to find a reset procedure – since it used different chips (but still probably does the same thing. If someone would point out a “probable” chip, I will do it.

  • Pieter Oskam

    I accidently ruined my Eeprom chip while solder :(. But i found a work-around which might help others.

    Procedure to reset CLP-300 Chips is as followes:

    1: Find the eeprom with code 24C64AN on it.
    2: hold wire over pin 5-8.
    3: power on printer while holding the wire.
    4: when the printer does “nothing”. release wire.
    5: The printer boot ups normally and ALL print stats are set to 0.

    Unfortunately. Each time the power is down on the printer you have to repeat the procedure. I drilled a hole in my side panel.

    • Carl

      I am reading your problem, it seems what you have to do is; Tape the terminals in the cartridges (not the high Voltages witch transfers the toner to the drum) but in your cartridges there are… I believe some chips. The tape is to isolate the terminals from making contact when you install them inside the printer. This works specially in the clp3xx series because if you reinstall the zero count, when you turn off the printer and turn it on again it will read the chips life witch are low and sometimes will display that you need to change cartridges and your printer will not print. Good Day

  • Zero Gravity Laser Tag, Albany Laser Tag, Laser Tag, Laser Tag NY, Laser Tag Albany

    I think that is one of the such a lot vital info for me. And i’m happy reading your article. But should commentary on some normal things, The website style is wonderful, the articles is in reality excellent : D. Just right process, cheers

  • Plinio

    thank you very much!
    I had to disconnect the mass just turned on the green light.

    Yellow 100%
    Magenta 100%
    Cyan 100%
    Black 100% :-)

  • Luke

    Another success! CLP 315W with ‘Replace Imaging Unit’ error (and it *was* an error – the drum was brand new). Now fixed. Thanks a bunch!

    For anyone that thinks this is too hard or too much work …… you’re probably wrong. Just follow the video that shows you how to open it and follow the relevant instructions above. In my case, I used a fan connector from the ATX power extension from a PC. I was able to do a really bad solder on the chip (*really bad*, thought I’d fried it), and then wind the other wire around a screw on the motherboard. Put it back together but as you do, push the end out of the ethernet hole. Now I can just put a jumper across the fan connector any time I need. Not the neatest but I don’t care. People will be looking at my prints…..not my printer.

  • Ebbe

    If I assume this reset method also works on a CLP-300, am I right then ?
    I would hate to make it into a boatanchor :o)
    Best regards Ebbe

  • Ebbe

    Sorry, I didn’t see Pieter Oskam’s post a few up.
    I’m not really sure if I understand it right, but I read it like you have to reset everytime the printer has been off, is that correct ?
    Best regardss Ebbe

  • James Owens

    I watched your u-tube on resetting the Samsung CLP-315 counters to 0. Do you recommend the switch for resetting? Or perhaps some micro-clips to snag on to the emprom and a ground or would you recommend that, saw some clips in your movie on u-tube in the background. Once started no turn back with the solder, what about heat dissipation, anything to worry about there, heat sink of any kind? Lot of dis-assembly/reassembly I think.

    Hope you have time to answer this.

    I always like getting around some setup by complanies like this.

    I also gather you used a needle point soldering iron? or just a pointed one? Don’t have either but would invest in one for this.

    I commend you for your efforts and successes.

  • Luke

    Ebbe: I read it the same way. It would seem you have to reset it each time it’s powered on.
    James Owen: A switch would be ideal but I was actually just going to hang two wires out of the side and touch them together. Not good looking but whatever works. I attached the ground wire to one of the board screws at the bottom right.
    I’d say go the solder route. I would recommend a needle point soldering iron but I just did mine with a clunky 40w that hadn’t been cleaned in ages. It delivers too much heat but I think the chip is fairly robust provided you don’t hold it on for too long. I didn’t use a heatsink. Not really a great deal of room to do that. Just make sure your wire is tinned first and it should attach easily enough.
    The disassembly only took about 3 minutes. About the same to reassemble.

    Good luck.

  • Ebbe

    I stumbled upon this page:
    And looking at my pagecount, i saw i only had 567 pages on the printer (CLP-300), and still being on the original toners without chip, i thought “what the heck, i’ll try”.
    I just printed a manual, 114 pages, and i still only have 567 pages on the counter, i’m a happy camper :-)
    Now i can rip the chips of the toners i just bought for backup, and never worry about that anymore.
    I can only say DO IT, better today than tomorrow.
    Thanks a lot for letting me in here, that set me up to investigate a little more.
    All the best

  • David

    Just to say thank you!

    i have the CLP-315W

    tips: you must cover the chips on the cartridges.
    use the screw to the top right of the lan ports to ground.
    hold the wire on the top left pin and switch power on. keep there for whole start up (long time…..feels especially long when holding a wire)

    Thanks again!

  • DanielS

    Report on CLP-325W:

    On this printer the chip to hack is a 24512WP.

    I tried a different but somewhat related hack on this printer (unsoldering pin 7 and connecting to Vcc to write-protect the memory) since it is new and have not reached the 1000 pages limit. However the results were… confusing.

    Now when I reset the printer, the counters for total pages printed, fuser usage, transfer roll usage, etc, all go back to previous values. However the counters for toner cartridge usage keep incrementing.

    It seems on this printer the toner counters are stored on another memory. In that case Brian’s hack will probably zero all counters *BUT* toner counters.

    If anybody knows where the toner counters are stored on this printer and is willing to share this knowledge, will have my gratitude.

  • Martytoof

    Just did my CLP315W. Looks like everything works great:

    – Hooked up SDA to ground to Vss via a momentary pushbutton that I still have to find some way to locate accessibly once I put the printer back together
    – Held SDA low until the printer began to spin motors, then let go
    – Printed test page, then printed configuration page to verify the pagecount was reset.
    – Powered down the printer, powered back up again.
    – Had to log into the printer via Wired ethernet ( since WiFi settings were reset.
    – Did a reset to factory defaults of all items in the menu that I could. That restored my Ethernet MAC address from 00:00:.. to its normal state.
    – At first WiFi wouldn’t connect, but I ran through the wizard several times and it finally connected to my WiFi.

    So it looks like I’m back at 100%, WiFi connectivity, Ethernet connectivity, Pagecount and Toner levels back to 0/100% respectively. Thanks to everyone here who provided such useful information :)

    Now to go pick up some eBay toner.

    • Niklas Petersen

      I had my MAC adres reset to zeros too on my CLP-315w. I can confirm this fix indeed works. Everything is back to normal.

  • Guy

    I just used this hack on my CLX 3175 and it works. Thanks. I´am using the a toner kit wich has chips in it.

  • Tom

    Hi Brian,

    I can not english very well. I have a CLP-315W, version V1.29.01.57 (LF). I can not reset this counter and the Page level. it only resets the wireless settings. All tips on your website I have already tried. Nothing has worked. When you connect pin 4 to ground getting all leds light up red. Release after 3sec. Nothing. it nothing will change. The 45sec initialization not come with me. Do I have something wrong? Please help!


  • terry

    Thanks Brian, urgent printing job on Sunday evening, CLP315W said “not playing anymore until you give me a new fuser unit” AAAArgh!!.
    Emergency Google found your article, read all other relevant posts, taped over cartridge chips, grounded top left hand pin on 4265 eeprom for 3 led blinks, initialised, printed test page, printed status sheets, all back to 100%, Brilliant :-) :-).
    Finished print job.
    Now to try factory resets to enable Wi-Fi, I don’t use it but want to get rid of blue warning led, and son-in-law will want it when he comes over for the impending holiday.

    Thanks again for sharing this, mark me down as a successful CP315W.

    • terry

      Sorry, that should read imaging unit, sorted the fuser unit out last breakdown!

  • martin

    i can confirm the pulldown of SDA pin 5 on U1 (24512wp) does not reset toner errors with the clp-325w
    i need fix fir the clp-325w urgently !
    oh and btw jones’ fix mentioned here is a payable one !

    • martin

      this is done on a blocked EndOfLife printer fw
      I can get into the webpage but counters are the same as well as errors

  • TechLabs

    Hi guys,
    I’ve a CLP315 firmware patch, that worked on my V1.29.11.67 version, and sets the toner to 100% every time you turn on the printer. If someone is interested can write me a PM.

    • http://HackingtheSamsungCLP=315 Tom

      Would this work on a CLP-310? If so, please send it!

  • Leandro Albano

    Hello, great post, really cool.

    I am wanting to develop a project where I connect a device to a printer and get this infomações such as total pages and toner level.

    I’m wondering how I could do that.

    Reading your post, I saw that you have a great imagination, and an even greater knowledge.

    Would you have any idea how to do something?

  • Roler06

    hi everyone
    On my CLP-315W (April 2009)
    Same as Tom, wired or wireless, the cycle does not change (about 10 s).
    The LED remains red.
    The only difference with the wire: the Toner’s LED are off
    (if no wire they blink)
    Anyone else have this problem?

    • terry

      Are you sure the top is in the right position, the front door is shut properly, and the paper tray is put in properly with paper in it?

      • terry

        Also, it is the top left hand pin you need to earth on u1, don’t know what number pin it is.

        • Roler06

          Thank you for your answer, but I also tried with all covers placed.
          If there is no paper the light turns red immediately and stays there.
          I see the light go green at the start of the motor, and then it turns red quickly (after led’s toner blinking).
          It is the top left hand pin I put to earth on u1

          • terry

            In that case, sorry, can’t think of anything else, you could try to see what error message comes up on smart panel, it might give you a clue.
            It worked fine on my 2007 model.

          • terry

            Just an afterthought, have you taped over the chips on the toner cartridges to isolate them?

          • Roler06

            Of course, I did.
            Especially as it is to use cartridges without chips but full, with a CLP with empty cartridges but with chips. 😉
            Thank you for your answers, but don’t worry, I will try again after the holidays ….

  • Andy

    Brought an HP 2050 all in one printer… and have run out of black ink… after reading what you put above, not sure if it is out of ink or not… however, I have moved from the UK to Malaysia and the ink cartridges here are half the price of the UK, so i brought the one which listed my printer… however, the printer says it is an invalid cartridge and now wont print.. Having looked at the old one compared to the new one, it is exactly the same, identical in every way, but just a different number. The number I brought a 61, is the same the HP site says for the US, so maybe it is just Europe that uses the 301… how knows… but i can not get hold of a 301 cartridge in Malaysia.. so i either import my cartridges or buy a new printer… what a joke… any help would be appreicated… I am properly pissed off about it…. i am honest person… who just wants my printer to work!!!

  • Roler06

    …. And I wish you Merry Christmas and Happy New Year from France !

  • akr

    Main Firmware Version : V1.29.11.52.N May-01-2009
    Network Firmware Version : V4.01.06.01(CLP-310) 04-08-2009
    Engine Firmware Version : 0.00.61
    SPL Firmware Version : SPL-C 5.35 11-20-2007

    Nice work, took me about 10 minutes to reset my counters.
    Released SDA after LED became green.
    Mac was 0 until reset to factory defaults.
    Seems I still have to refill empty cartridges :-)

    Thanks for sharing

    • Torsten

      I have the same issue as mentioned above. The MAC address is zero. How could you reset to factory defaults with such a MAC address? Any help is very much appreciated.

      By the way, printing via USB port is working well.


  • deepspace

    does someone have experience with the CLP-360 serie (in particular CLP-365W)?
    I tryed the reset procedure for the flash (mine is the ST 24256) and it works only for the Fuser, Transfer Roller and Pick-up Roller Life, also for the Transfer Unit life but not for the toners (actually I have the originals that came with the printer with 723,545,545,547 page count for respectively BCMY and all 4 toner lights flashing on the printer; still about 10% of remaining life). I suppose that the firmware does check the toner chips at boot and update some counters on printing; in fact I sniffed with an oscilloscope the 4 pins that goes to one of the toner cassette and realized that one is gnd (of course!!) one is some kind of write enable, the other two I assume are clk and data. I tryed to short circuit one of them to gnd but during boot the printer goes red and no way to continue. Most likely it does reads and writes so the short to gnd prodedure does not work. Some suggestions?
    Thank in advance and Happy Holydays to all

    • terry

      Try taping over the cartridge chips so they cannot be read, then try reset. It works on 315w and the cartridges look similar.

      • deepspace

        Thanks for the suggestion but unfortunately the first check the printer does is on the toner cassettes (even doing reset) and most likely the cassettes have chip, even though they are the initial cassettes. The result of this test gives a sparkling red on the front led and the printer stop working without doing any motor noise. I tryed to read the content of the EEPROM of the cassette following instructions found in but I have always an aswer like “device not found” when I try to read the chip using PonyProg2000. I suspect te eeprom should be “opened” by some particular command that I do not know. I do not even know what chip it is: the toner cassette is the CLT-K406S (for the black). Does someone have more info about the chip? I definitely need a bus sniffer (or logic state analyzer) to see what’s happening on the SDA SCK lines. BTW the 4th line I assumed was write enable, is simply the +3.3v power supply :o\

    • HarryK

      Did you, after all, manage to huck the clp365w?

      • Deepspace

        unfortunately not…:o(
        AFAIK the toner cassette has the cryptomemory atmel at88 series…. the only thing I can suggest is verify in advance if the printer is hackable…..
        In toner cassettes I’ve already spent twice the price of the printer….

    • MARIO

      HI FRIEND !!



  • Dirt

    This is absolutely awesome and it works on a 315W. Here is the procedure that worked for me:
    I got it to work by holding the SDA to ground ONLY until the LED light turns green then you MUST remove it from ground for my model or all the LEDs turn red and it will not respond (so you can not write to the EEPROM). It still takes a long time to boot, but you do not have to have the SDA connected to ground while it finishes booting.

  • Ken

    CLP-315W checking in here with a successful mod! My printer has sat unused for so long because I wasn’t keen on spending $100 for a set of new cartridges.

    Some notes:

    Soldering procedure for me was exactly like Brian said. Even though the chip was different (and located more to the right) than the regular CLP-315, it was still the top-left pin on the chip.

    When booting up the printer with the wire grounded, Dirt’s post ( ) is exactly correct. Remove the wire as soon as the light on top of the printer turns green. This resulted in a successful reset for me on the first try with all counts reset!

    Like others have mentioned, this reset the network settings for the printer as well, so it is necessary to go to and reconfigure the printer from the control panel. For me personally, I had my router configured with a static lease for my printer’s IP address and it still recognized the printer after rebooting with it connected to LAN. The wireless settings were lost, but when wired, my router still assigned the printer to its old IP address… YMMV

    I should note that my printer was under 1,000 pages printed and still had the original toner cartridges in it, so performing this reset was a cinch. You may need to do other stuff if your printer has had more pages printed, but I honestly don’t know because I haven’t bought/never will buy new cartridges for this printer now.

    Hope this is helpful for future modders, and thank you so much Brian for figuring this out!

    • Ken

      also wanted to add that for the grounding on the CLP-315W I soldered a long wire to the chip, and hooked another wire into the top-right motherboard screw (near the back of the printer) and then looped both of those wires to the outside of the printer by going through the small opening at the top of the ethernet port. Now when I need to perform a reset i can simply hook those two wires together instead of re-opening the printer. When not in use I have the wires taped with electrical tape to the backside of the printer. Easy, clean and functional!

  • TKNoodle

    The trick works great for me. You are a genius man!
    I like this “Reset The Counter” approach better than “Stop The Counter” one.
    With the counter still working, I can keep tracking my toner usage by using some kindergarten math.
    Thanks Brian.

    My firmware ver.: V1.01.11.52 May-01-2009

  • Genoso

    Thanks!!!! It worked perfect in a CLP315 I own. My counter was in 900 and now back to 0!!!

  • Ankerman

    Finally gotten around to hacking my CLP-315. Although my board looked slightly different (the EEPROM chip is next to the connector with the grey cables, above the MAC ADDRESS text) the procedure works like described.
    All settings are zeroed – happy printing everyone.

  • John

    After installing mod, after initialization, I get a red main solid led and all of the toner lights remain on red. Never get a green light. Comments ?

  • John

    Fixed above pblm. Post of June 25, 2012 at 10:03 pm is the answer.
    Brian you are very knowledgeable in this field. Thanks.

  • sunirmal

    i have a samsung clp 326 printer. i have refilled it many times and changed chips for each cartiges. now, this time it showing change imaging unit. power light is on and error light is glowing red (still).
    i have tried the above procedure, but with no result. its having winbond 8 pin ic no-2501613vs1g.
    engine ver. 1.00.31(55)
    firmware ver v1.03.01.36
    model no 326

    plz help!!!!

    • Cam

      Try this solution posted on youtube that I stumbled upon.
      One way of fixing Samsung CLP-315 Printer Dev. Home error.AVI

      happy days to ya!

  • sunirmal

    i have even changed the 56 ohms resistance in the fuser attached in the drum unit.
    but with no result.
    image counts have exceeded 24000
    now its not printing.
    i have only managed to print a configuration report.
    plz help me .

  • paladin

    Alguien sabe como resetear el contador de la impresora samsung clp-325w

  • Adri

    Thank you .

    I have the same printer and have it modded successfully. My motherboard was slightly different, the chip is the same. Unfortunately I forgot to take pictures. Greetings from Germany

  • visarion

    hy can u locate for me the parts for clx 3185
    i dont know wich is the eeprom to wire
    pls contact me

  • David L

    Hello. I´d like to ask for some help with the CLP-325 model. Do you think that this will work with my printer model? or, perhaps you know another way to reset the cartridges for CLP-325, please let me know, I´ll really apreciate.

    Thank you.
    David L.

    • Chris

      Major props for all your work. I have the CLP-315W and was able to reset its page counts using your advice and the advice of some of the commenters here. I made a video of performing the hack on the CLP-315W which can be found here:

      • Brian

        Thanks for putting this video together, Chris. Reading the comments people leave on this post really brightens my day. This one, exceptionally so. Great work!

      • dave

        As soon as (anyone) can hack the CL325 board / chips – let me know too!!

  • David L

    Hello Chris… Thank you for your post and video… I´ll open my printer again… to see if the mother board is the same as yours. What happened to me with Brian´s video was that the mother board was not the same and I had 5 chips very similar… So did not know which to put the cable. I will look if your model has the same like my model (CLP-325).
    Thank you.
    David L.

  • Mike

    I just wanted to report another success story for a CLP-315. All my toner remaining values are now reset to 100%. I was still using the original toner cartridges, with a page count of 407, but the yellow toner remaining was down to 10%. The others were at about 25%. The printer board did not look exactly the same as your pictures, but the U1 chip was in approximately the same location with the same orientation. After soldering on the wires, I was a little worried I had done something wrong. I tried to power on the printer before putting on the top cover. There must be some sensor to inform the printer that it is off because it just blinked red and didn’t go through the initialization procedure. After putting everything back together again, it booted up fine and the reset procedure worked just as described in the original post.

    OS Version: V1.01.01.23 Sep-17-2008
    SLP-C Version: SLP-C 5.35 11-20-2007
    Engine Version: 1.77.74.T(55)

    Thanks for all your help!

  • Alexej

    thank you very much! My CLP-315/XEV got second life!

  • Dinesh

    Wow. This is great. Going to try this later on this week.
    On a side note, does anyone know how many GRAMS the FACTORY toner cartridges accept in a refill? The chipped store-bought are 68g for black and 45-50g for CYM.
    Since I will be using factory, I would like to know. Thanks. :)

  • http://yeshh Damogran

    Thank you very many, now my CLP-315 no longer blinks those stupid lights.
    And btw, my wife did not roll her eyes… she forced me to do this. What a catch for a nerd! 😀

  • -Neos-

    Thanks very much for this tutorial. So i got one problem solved 😉

    I’ve bought this printer (clp 315w) last week as a replacement for my clp 300, since the clp 300 counted the pages too faulty, while using more than 5% color per page and leaving 50% of toner inside the “empty toner cartridge”. So first, I repaired a sensor and disassabled and cleaned everything in the printer, so I looks and prints now, like a new one.

    After all I soldered a cable to the eprom chip and affixed a tactile switch on the backside of the printer. Worked right on my first launch.

    But there is one problem that I’m not able to solve…may be someone got advice?
    After the reset my network configuration was gone and the MAC adress of the printer is completely empty (only 0s). I just can’t get the printer connected to my network neither via LAN nor via WLAN..(via USB cable still works) ..I really would prefer the network connection, as the printer is positioned in another room.
    Thanks for any advices!!!

    • Chris

      I had the same thing happen and what I had to do was to plug my computer directly into the LAN port on the printer and set the default IP address/subnet mask/gateway to the printer’s settings, then access it through the web browser to tell it which WAP to connect to, etc. A bit of a pain but do-able.

      • Mike

        I’m running into a weird problem along these lines… I’ve followed your recommendation (above) to get the MAC address back… but now when I connect to my printer (via SyncThru Web) and click on the network settings tab, the wireless option isn’t there any more!?!?

        I’ve gone through the manual several times to no avail…

        Any ideas? Thanks.

  • -Neos-

    I just tried it, but without any success. The printer is never getting initialized and the web thru service is not accessable.
    With Setip I could change the IP adress of the printer and changed the settings to the previous network settings of my old clp 300N, but the MAC still stood with full of “0”s.
    Maybe someone could write down a short step-by-step tut. what exactly to do?

  • Alex

    What size soldering chisel tip do you recommend for the job?

    I’m a beginner and don’t want to make a mess of it.


    • Ebbe

      I’d say 0.6-0.8mm, personally i don’t like the needle-shaped ones. The one i used were 0.8mm, a bit wide, but lifted the leg fast without too long heat time.
      Best regards Ebbe

    • Brian

      I agree with Ebbe. If the soldering tip is too small it becomes difficult to get the tip hot enough to flow the solder. Dave Jones over at EEVBlog has some great soldering tutorial videos. Part 3 is specifically geared toward soldering SMD (surface mount) components like the EEPROM we are dealing with here. Check it out here:

      Good luck!

  • Alex

    Well I thought I’d report that it worked! My solder has since fallen off, lol but I’ll worry about that next time it needs a reset.


  • Adrian

    Hello. My motherboard is little different i have this chip on right not on left. Production of my printer is October 2008. I got error of imaging unit, can i try to reset it with this method ? Best regards, Adrian.

  • martyn sands

    Please Help!
    I tried several times to get my printer clp315 to boot without managing to get a green light then suddenly nothing. When I switch on now 2 lights quickly flash on then off.. there’s a brief click and then nothing!

  • Ray Thorogood

    Well after much messing around trying to get the hack to work I finally managed it :-), I have the 315W, O/S version V1.29.01.56.W oct 2009, SPL-C 5.35 11-20-2007

    Here is my board layout, notice the different chip location to Brian’s


    and here’s my chip


    What worked for my printer was I Taped up all the toner cartridge chips, turned the printer on with the button pushed for the grounding wire but only till the green light came on after the 2 orange blinks and the machine started to make a noise then let go, it went through its startup sequence then stopped, I printed the colour page, when that finished I printed the config page and all was good and everything zero’d, just remains to say a big thanks you to Brian first and foremost and everyone else who has took the time to input their efforts, many thanks :-)

  • Ray Thorogood

    Sorry guys looks like my Images wont work

  • Doug

    anybody try this with the samsung clp 415 wireless printer?

  • Andy

    Just modded a CLX-3170FN which had fuser, transfer and imaging warning on it.
    Mod has reset the chip-type toners, fuser, transfer belt and imaging unit counters. Taped over the toner contacts before i started the job. Before reset, printer says “no toner”. After reset that message disappears and everything works great.
    Now config page shows toner manufacturer as INI, no serial number and undated….very nice.
    Fitted switch just above network port, where there is an existing hole…polywelded the switch to the inside..very neat. (Wired to pins 4&5 of the 24c64 EEPROM)
    Thankyou so much for the info here, which let me do this :-)

  • Ray Thorogood

    Hi chaps, just out of curiosity has anyone with 315-W refilled their cartridges and came to reset it again and it not work?, My toners where getting low as I was keeping an eye on the page count etc and by this point I had the lights flashing on the Black & Yellow toner indicators, so today I refilled all my cartridges and went thru the same routine that worked for me last time and it doesnt zero the counters and the 2 indicator lights remain flashing, any thoughts?, on the plus side Ive refilled my toners and I can still use the machine, cheers guys :-)

    • Chris

      The main thing I would warn you to do is after you ground the pin while powering on, you have to make sure and run a demo page in order to advance the counters from zero to 1. Should be fine after that. Otherwise it is possible your soldering on the pin is insecure and you aren’t getting a good ground.

      • Ray Thorogood

        Hi Chris
        Thanks for the reply :-) it turns out the initial soldering wasnt up to the job and it wasn’t making a propper contact, I redone it and all is well, thanks again

  • alex

    I tried with my 315 but nothing changed.
    The problem is maybe that i have all the colors toner cartridges chipless and the black one with the chip. And the yellow one is empty, so i can’t print the demo or configuration page with the printer button. I tried following the instructions, covering the black toner chip, grounding the SDA pin 5 for the 3 orange blinks until LED turned green…nothing! the big problem is that i can’t print the page! help me!

  • Gabriel

    Hi Brian
    Did work perfect!!
    But there is an update with the reset! If you have a new toner cartridge w the chip on it MAKE SURE you remove the chip or just put some electric tape on it!!
    The printer got confused because the printer memory did not match with the cartridge counter and the reset did not go through!
    Thank you again!!

  • Mike

    Thanks Brian, I found a CLP-315W on the street yesterday… brought it home… and plugged it in… drat, the red led of death… a little googling and I found the users manual… then, I found reference to the red light – could be low toner, so I printed a config page and yup, cyan, and magenta at 0% even though the demo page looked beautiful… hmmm… more googling lead me to your mod…

    FANTASTIC. the only hitch was that (evidently) the previous owner had bought new toner cartridges (with the gold contacts/ chips) so I taped over those and did the procedure once again, and VIOLA! a Green Light!

    Now if I can just get it back on WiFi… When I plug it into a hardwire network and access the printer and go to the Network Settings page, even after following the network reset as mentioned above, the WiFi option isn’t there any more… first world problems – I know, and you don’t have the wireless version so… the googling continues…

    at any rate, I just wanted to say a big THANK YOU! now I can quit wasting $$$ on ink for my inkjet that seems to be dried up every time I want to print something – every once and a blue moon…

  • Grant

    I have an old 315W that stopped working after I unsuccessfully tried to solder a reset chip over the motherboard.I put the motherboard back in the printer and turned it on but after a few seconds of initializing a ‘kick’ noise is heard and the lights blink red.
    I gave up on this, does anybody know what could be the problem because I removed all the solder chip

  • Martin

    Thanks, reset worked fine for my CLP315w.
    It has the newer smaller eeprom but it is placed in the same position so still left upper pin is SDA

  • nika

    Hi there, first of all thanks for the great post.. really useful and well written.
    I wanted to try it on my CLP-325 laser printer but although the case is quite similar, i can’t find the chip on the board cause there are some differences. I suspect that the fix works on 325 as well, but i need some help.. could you please take o look on the chip of 325 and give a hand??
    Thanks in advance :)

    • Brian

      Hey nika,

      Unfortunately I don’t have a CLP-325 to experiment with so you are in uncharted territory from my perspective. According to the comments above, it looks like that board uses a model of EEPROM different from that of the CLP-315. If your board is the same as commenter Dave’s (see above) then the chip you are looking for is marked as “24512wp”.

      I glanced at the datasheet for that chip here:

      It looks like SDA is on pin 5 for this chip.

      I think some others have tried this hack on the 325 without success, but if you are able to figure it out I’m sure we would all love to hear about it. Good luck!

  • Dave

    YES- YES – Yes – Please try this on the clp-325w – somebody!

    I have (2) of these 325’s, and the second one is nearing the end of it’s toner counts. I’ve tried to contact a guy (who responded about four months ago on this list) about a “firmware” fix, but he has since stopped communicating…so I will need to do it this “hardware” way. I would really appreciate a pioneer to figure out on this different model’s hardware. Much thanks anticipated..

    • ike

      did you ever get a way to reset your clp-325?

      • Dave M

        No – not yet. I have searched all of the chips on the boards but can’t find the proper (I should say – the same) chip numbers as the cl 315. I’m sure that one of them functions in the same manner, but haven’t researched each chip yet.

        If you have the tech knowledge, and (apparently) have the same machine, please let us know what you find / try? I know that there are a lot of us CL 325 owners…

        • Uugi

          Hello Dave, i am same like you, my friend asked me to fix her printer clp 325 , i’ve searched on internet and havn’t found any good solution yet, did you fix this ?
          please reply me as soon as possible

          Thanks Dave

          Sincerely Uugi from Ulaanbaatar, Mongolia

  • Ike

    How can I apply this to CLP 300
    I tried but cant really locate the chip
    please help for my machine has been a big mess. Toner runs out like volatile fuel lol

    • Chris

      how about taking a photo of the circuit board and posting a link to it here, and we’ll try to give some guidance.

    • Ebbe

      Look at the Pcb. In the top left corner the chip is. Maybe a couple of wires are hanging down, hiding it partially.
      I have no pictures, but look after the 8-legged chip with the right marking. Pin 7 is the second one in the right row, from the top. Lift that leg CAREFULLY, and ground it.

      Best regards Ebbe

  • Roler06

    Pour les lecteurs français:

    Après un premier essai infructueux sur 315W (13 Dec 2012).
    J’ai de nouveaux essayé et RÉUSSI !
    Au démarrage le voyant passait rapidement au rouge et impossible d’imprimer une page de test.
    En mettant le fil à la masse : pareil.

    Après avoir sorti et remis après nettoyage contacts tous les composants (tambour, bac récupérateur …), réinstallé les drivers. Le voyant rouge clignote et il est possible d’imprimer une page de test !
    Première manip : fil à la masse pendant les 3 premiers cycles de chenillard = Ok. En fin ce cycle, le voyant reste vert, tout à 100%. :-)
    Mais après mise hors tension, voyant clignotant rouge, et seul le noir est à 100% :-(
    Nouvelle manip 2 ou 3 fois, et enfin tout est Ok et 100% même après mise hors tension ! :-)

    (Je l’utilise en USB, donc pas de Pb pour le Mac à 0 …)

    Merci à Brian et tous les participants.

  • Chris

    Wow, must be getting popular with this post! You have real, live comment spam.

    • Brian

      The spammers have been at it since day one, unfortunately… Nearly 15,000 spam comments blocked by Askimet to date. I just ran updates on the blog, so hopefully I won’t be furthering their cause much longer. (c:

  • Ray B

    Thanks for the info. Onfortunetly for me it won’t work. I have a CLX-3185.

    The board is different.
    I have seen the viseo of the CLX-3175 on youtubes but still, differente.

    Have you come across one of these (CLT-3185)?

    • Ray B

      Here are some Photo of CLX-3185fw

      • Ray B

        Well, seem like I am done!

        I did the Hack to the 24512WP ST8113K EEPROM.
        By holding a paper clip at one end of a cable with 2 alligator grip and the other to the ground.
        It does not seem to work.

        So I try removing the batterie, and , all my counts are at 4294967295, but the toner remaining is at 0% on all 4 cartridge.

        I do not have a BusPirate and I am no top gun in electronic.
        So I will have to let go.
        And I need my printer.
        I will have to by a new one I guess.

        If you have any clue

      • M

        I too have a CLX-3185FW. Have you figure out the EEPROM chip yet? Thanks

  • Dhaim

    Thanks a lot . Grounding the upper left pin of the chip worked with my clp315w. I think it’s not really necessary to solder the wire to the pin.The pin is so small that it’s easy to mess up things and damage the chip. What I did is I tied the wire to volt meter stick and held it firmly to the pin for a few seconds and then let it go. It worked fine . I can print wirelessly without any problems. The empty Mac adress doesn’t seem to cause any problem either.When I print from laptops I don’t need any additional software but printing fro ipad using samsung mobile print app (the only app that worked for me) doesn’t always work smoothly.

  • David

    My CLP-315w toners were almost out and I had to either buy new ones or do this hack.
    I’ve never done soldering before so this was a very challenging project for me. I watched a couple of vidoes on soldering and dared to try this hack.
    Luckily, everything went well and I was able to take the soldered line out of the printer so that I reset the counter in the future by just grounding to USB. port from outside.


  • Ralf

    My CLP320N FW:V1.20.01.19.N May-10-2010 1.00.24 have the EEPROM 4256BWP. I lifted pin 7 (WC) and connected this to pin 8 (VCC) but after reboot the printer didn’t start. So I left pin 7 free floating for the next reboot and this time the printer booted successful. Than I placed a switch between pin7 and pin8 to control the write control any time.

    I leave the switch open during boot so that fw can write to the EEPROM and close it after the boot is done. Than I’m able to print black and all the counter for fuser, transfer, tray belt remain the same but the page count for black increments.

    For color it’s a different story, after the print job is done, it also can contain many pages, the printer will stop. After power off all values remain the same only black increments.

    So far this hack is not the best solution.

    • Dave

      I like your attempts on your clp320 printer. I have (2) CLP 325 printers waiting for a pioneer like you to figure it out. I love it when we can foul up the devious big money making schemes that these printer companies use on us poor hapless buyers of their products…

  • SpellCaster

    Operation performed on a CLP-310 with no probs, I also added a switch on the back of the outer casing for future use :)

  • K.Y.

    Dear Sir,
    I try to replace the resistor fuse on toner / counter sensor PCB of CLP 315 Printer and cause the Q13 burned out and only see last 2 digits , would you please kindly let me know what is the part number of it ?

    Many thanks

  • printfix

    Can confirm this hack works on the CLP-300 as well. Just note that the EEPROM is oriented 180 degrees from the CLP-315, so the SDA pin you need to ground is on the bottom right. Also, the EEPROM is in approximately the same location, and there’s another chip nearby that looks similar to it, so make sure you solder on the chip that is nearest the edge of the motherboard. I don’t know if it’s just mine, but the reset procedure also seemed to differ slightly: boot up with wire grounded, then disconnect once the green light appears and everything is reset and will print normally. Trying to print the configuration page throws it into some sort of strange error loop and you’ll have to reset it again – so I’d suggest skipping that step.

  • Mike Crim

    Brian, I just swapped my toner chips with blanks (from a buddies printer)… now I can take that piece of folded up paper out from under the front hatch! (yeah!)

    I can mail the removed toner chips to you if you want to “play” with them…


    thanks again.

    • Brian

      Even if I were able to figure out how to hack the toner chips, I think the resulting procedure would likely be more difficult. It is pretty tough to beat grounding one signal during boot! (c: Thank you for the very kind offer, but I don’t think I’ll be digging into this area of the system unless something changes. Cheers!

      • Mike Crim

        okie dokie.

  • PSN Code Générateur Gratuit

    I used to be suggested this blog by my cousin. I’m now not sure whether this post is written by way of him as nobody else recognise such precise approximately my difficulty. You are amazing! Thanks!

  • neno

    It works perfectly on the CLP-310. Thank you.

    I had a little problem, but I solved.

    For CLP-310, follow these steps:

    Step 1: Connect the wires and turn on the printer
    Step 2: When the lights start blinking disconnect the wires and wait for it to initialize
    Step 3: Print the demo page (slow blinking)
    Step 4: Print the configuration page (fast blinking)
    Step 5: Turn off the printer
    Step 6: Connect the USB and print :)

    I had a problem because I followed the steps. First you need to print a demo page, and then the configuration page and then turn off. Otherwise does not work on my printer!

  • Dreamland

    I have a 315w, the reset worked. But now I don;t have a mac address for wireless! is there any way to get it back? I have tired the above steps but no success! help!

    • Mike

      you can perform a “network reset” and the mac address will reappear.

      (at least it did for me…)

      • Dreamland

        I did not luck getting the mac address back :( when you did the reset are you sure your mac address isn;t zero;s >>?

        • Bohdan

          I had the same problem when hacking my 315. See one of my comments above for the steps I took to get wireless back.

          • Dreamland

            Yeah, I tried that no luck :( My router doesn;t like mac’ that are 00:00:00:00:00:00 , if I buy a chip from email to over ride do you think i’ll be able to set a mac addresS?

      • Julius

        Hey, count reset didn’t work, but I also lost all the mac address and IP address. Can you please tell me how you did the “network reset”? Thanks.

  • Dan

    I have a Samsung CLP-315W printer manufactured February 2010 with genuine Samsung cartridges that are at the 50% level. Before the reset hack had a green status light with cartridge lights off. After reset hack, all lights (Status and Toner LEDS) were red. So could not print a configuration sheet. Turned off printer and turned back on and everything was as it was before the reset hack. After playing around awhile, found that ALL toner cartridges have to have tape over the pin connectors in the front of the cartridge, even if they are genuine Samsung cartridges. After taping the pin connectors at the front of ALL the cartridges, the reset hack worked perfectly. Thanks Brian for figuring out this hack and sharing it with everyone. It very much appreciated.

  • Julius

    Here’s an idea for someone to try, based on my understanding of the serial data bus (I2C) used in this printer: The SDA line (as SCL or clock line) are all connected together for all toner, so if one solder a real thin wire to ONE of the toner doesn’t matter which one, and block the remaining 3 pins with tape, in effect you can temporarily ground the SDA line as you touch the free end of the thin wire to a ground screw. You also need to cover/tape all four pads of the other toners. This is in effect doing what Brian did without taking the unit apart. The rest of the procedure still applies. BTW, SDA line is bidirectional, the controller sends a serial address to the chip and the then returns a serial data status. By grounding the SDA to zero, no address is seen by any of toner chip, and no data returns to the controller.

  • Julius

    Oops, I am not sure which one is the SDA of the four pads in the toner. I think someone posted saying that upper left is SDA, upper right is +5v, lower left is SCL and lower right is GROUND. Do not ground any of these pads except the SDA because it may damage the clock source or 5v supply. The SDA is Ok to ground because it is driven by an “open collector FET”

  • Dave

    Has anyone tried this simple ground to the SDA pin of the toner cartridge? Please let us know. I have (2) CLP-325 printers with totally different boards – and I can’t find the real memory chip (previous postings…).

    Let us know!

  • Brian

    Dave and Julius,

    On my printer, the cartridges and main board EEPROM are on different I2C busses, unfortunately. I investigated this possibility pretty early on and was a bit disappointed when I wasn’t able to find any continuity. If it happened that they were on the same bus, we could perform the hack without even removing any screws! Alas, life isn’t always easy. (c:

    • Julius

      Hemh, you’re way ahead of me then. I just thought that the 4 pogo pins that made contact with each toner are wired to the logic board and from there to the SCL/SDA line son that chip as well as to the master microcontroller that does the querying and update. Oh well. We’ll keep hacking.

  • Alec

    Managed to do this to my CLP-310N “Solderless!” (I can solder, and will probably fit a switch later but for now I’m good to go)

    My black toner has previously been replaced, so I took some glue and a cut out of card board and glued it to the contacts.

    Simply took a length of kynar wire, stripped one end generously and the other just a little.

    Wrapped the “generous” end around the chassis by the usb port, and touched the other end on the chip’s pin and held it there whilst turning it back on (had to tape the back door closed as it didn’t close properly with the other panels missing)… i removed the wire after about 5 or 10 seconds but I let the printer continue (took ages to come on) and all was all reset!

    The NIC lost its MAC (Wired NIC), a network reset cured this. Then it had the address, so set a static IP on it.

    Just waiting for my toner to arrive, but i no longer have 4 red lights and the main light is now green not red! (perhaps I had exceeded the Drum counter?), have always been able to print even though cartridges were empty – but had to open and close the front door before it would print (which is strange), but not anymore since doing the reset.

    Thank you so much for this incredibly easy tip, saved buying one of the reset Mod Chips out there on ebay!!

  • Barbarian

    Hi, just to give my experience with my CLX-3175, I tried it and did not work, jumping pin 5 (SDA) and 7 (GND for disabling write protection) at startup it gave the red light with everything expired (4 toners, fuser unit, imaging unit, transfer belt), I also tried different GND points with same bad results. After that I did the following: jumper pin 8 (+Vcc) and pin 7 to enable write protection. Obviously the chip pin 7 has to be lifted up before jumping it to +Vcc, as it is welded to GND, if bridged without lifting would make a short circuit. It took me some time to make the jumper because when lifting up the pin 7 it broke, so it was almost nothing of metal in the chip to make the welding. While testing it I realized that the print limit of the black toner is not 1000 copies, as I started the test with 980 and finished the jumper with 1016 without any red light, so it must be around 1500, given tha fact that the black toner is a little bit bigger than the color ones. Now I print 10 pages, the black counter increases up to 1026, and when I switch the printer off and on the counter is back to 1016. The color count is under 1000 copies.
    This is possible because I still have the original toners (without chip) that comes with the printer.

  • Laurence Marks

    Well, I’m having no luck with this. I have a CLP-315 (not the Wireless version) which won’t reset with this hack. When I hold the new button in while powering on until initialization completes, I get a long initialization and then the red LED lights and the printer does not respond to The Button. If I release it as soon as the light chase and motor start (as described for the wireless version), I still get the red LED and freeze. If I hold it in for just the first flash of LEDs (or not at all) the printer powers up okay (short initialization) but does demo page/stats page shows that the printer counts did not reset.

    The printer “OS” version (per sticker and config page) is V1.01.11.52 May 01-2009.

    Please advise.

    • Laurence Marks

      THIS IS A CONFESSION OF STUPIDITY. I am an electrical engineer (former technician) by degrees and profession. I performed this modification and it didn’t work right as noted in the preceding post and succeeding ones. If I held the new button for a very short time and released it, the printer came up with short initialization and no reset. If I held it any longer (one amber, both ambers, first flash of green, complete initialization), the LED went red and stayed red and the printer didn’t respond to the control button.

      As noted below, I surmised that I might have a different ROM version (not the case) or that I might have bridged together two pins on the EPROM (not likely; I’m better than that).

      No, what I did was much more STUPID than that. I’m posting here in case someone else is equally foolish. The first time my black cartridge ran out I had replaced it with an exchange unit, so I suspected it had contacts and taped them. The original color cartridges were still in the printer so I ASS-U-MEd they had no contacts and failed to tape them–giving rise to the unexpected behavior.

      After several hours (spread over 3-4 months) of messing around trying to get the reset to work it finally struck me to look at the three color cartridges. Sure enough, all three have contacts. As soon as I taped them, the reset worked, The First Time.

      Thanks Brian, and I hope this confession helps someone else.


      • Brian

        I think we have all done this at some point in our lives. Your story reminds me of a technical error I made just the other day. In the end, it was the customer who finally suggested the solution. It was a wonderful lesson in humility.

        I’m glad the hack finally worked out for you. Thank you for being so active in helping others around here in the meantime!

  • mita2002

    Dear friend
    I have a Samsung Laser printer with brand ML-1671 and currently, this printer requires reset software to run again. So if you have a solution, please let me know.
    Thank you

  • Terry

    Thanks ever so much for for this it worked a treat on my 315 although the chip was in a different position it still worked.
    I could not be bothered to solder it, just held the grounded wire to the leg for the 60 odd seconds that it took to reset (be prapared for the wheel to start spinning though).
    Thanks again.

    • Laurence Marks

      Yeah, but do you really want to pull the covers off the next time a cartridge is refilled? And the next? And next? Eventually you will get tired of this and add some external means to do this reset.


      • Terry

        Hi Larry,
        I did consider soldering and using a switch but I assumed because im using the original non-chipped cartridges and refilling with toner, I will only need to repeat this process when the page count reaches 1000. It took 3 years for that to happen last time so cannot see me needing to repeat this process too soon.

        Keep up the good work guys.

  • Fred Frazelle

    This is a pretty long thread and i don’t know if i posted when i first used your hack, but it sure worked and i’ve been a happy camper ever since.

    Now, my printer won’t print and my Orange/Red flashing light is on. i ran a Config. Rpt. and it shows my Black at zero. i’m seeing somewhere in this thread that i should have run a button outside the machine. Do you opening this up and running the proceedure again will fix my Black issue?

    Can i just run a couple of wires outside, tape the ends, and when i need them, just untape them and hold them together? Is this too simple? – lol.

    Again, thanks again for so many pages! Hopefully i can get a positive answer.

    Warmest greetings – fred

    • Laurence Marks

      Ummm, yeah. You have to reset the cartridge counts *every* time they run out. That’s why the author suggests you run wires to a pushbutton mounted on the back of the printer. If you don’t have the networked model, you can punch out the little block in the cover above the USB slot. I’ll post some pictures….

    • Laurence Marks

      You *must* reset the counts each time you refill a cartridge. The printer will continue incrementing them and when they reach a limit, the printer will refuse to print. It’s much easier to mount a pushbutton on the rear of the printer than to take the covers off and poke wires around each time you fill a cartridge.

      For the less creative among us, I’ve posted pictures on how you might mount the pushbutton, at in the “CLP-315 Printer” folder.

      You can use the Radio Shack (Tandy, overseas) 275-1571 switch as I did, or any other momentary contact normally open switch. Note that Radio Shack carries at least one normally closed switch. Don’t use it.

      The mounting bracket is a scrap of sheet metal, actually a small piece of ductwork. As it’s shown, the tabs on the sheet metal were bent towards the solder contacts and the assembly was mounted from the outside in, hence the bracket was flush with the printer’s metal bracket. If I were doing it again, I would have mounted it from the inside out (bending the tabs towards the button), so the switch and bracket were recessed, just so I didn’t have to stretch the cover over the switch when re-installing it.

    • Fred Frazelle

      Update… just following the instructions for the hack with the YouTube video for the CLP-315W. Just connected the wire to the ground and then held the other end to the chip’s top left pin until the printer started and then pulled the wire away from the chip and let it continue to initialize.

      Actually this didn’t work for the first couple of tries because i didn’t hold the wire to the chip long enough.

      But now everything is hunky dory again! Yeah Rumburg! If i could i’d send you $20 for this hack.

      Have a beautiful afternoon! :)

  • Fred Frazelle

    BTY, i just saw your comments, Lawrence. Wow! That was fast!

    However i don’t think i’ve got the soldering equipment, much less the expertise to manage this solder. So, i’ll just go through the process each time i need to fill the cart. Actually, as you mentioned, the printer reaches a limit and then refuses to print. i’ve “refilled” several of the cart. several times and haven’t had to rehack this thing. So, perhaps i’ll just wait till the printer reaches it’s limit again and then open her up.

    Have a super afternoon! :)

  • LizardWizard

    Does anyone know what the chip is in clp-365 model? ST 62310 or ST K231P or sth else?

  • Bob

    What toner refills do you use?

    • Ray Thorogood
    • Laurence Marks

      Here’s a related question: Instructions with some of the brands of toner refill say to dump toner remaining in the cartridge before refilling. This strikes me as a way to sell more refills. At least once I have not emptied the cartridge before refilling (failed to read instructions carefully) with no ill effects. Black toner is just powdered carbon, right? What could be the difference, especially if mixed well by horizontal shaking?

      • Brian

        I didn’t empty mine before refilling the first time. I did notice a bit of a smearing inside large blocks of color initially. The smearing has gone away, though. I haven’t noticed anything more severe than that.

      • Laurence Marks

        Replying to my own post…
        It seemed kind of wasteful to empty out a cartridge’s residual toner before refilling as recommended in the refill’s instructions. The instructions warn of a blended appearance. I was printing PowerPoint slides where that wasn’t an issue (unlike photographs), so I decided to run an experiment. I refilled three color cartridges without first emptying them, then shook each cartridge in a horizontal plane to mix the toner as best I could prior to reinstalling them.

        Only the first two or three printed sheets showed some blending of colors. I don’t plan to empty cartridges in the future.

    • Brian
  • Bob

    This is just a brilliant hack! I had this printer on a Mac network: never work; nearly threw it out. Today. I updated the firmware (to allow it to work on a Mac network) and did this hack (remarkably easy, though I have some experience with surface mount soldering). It worked perfectly, immediately. I did (actually, I do not know if I had to) tape over the contacts on the toner cartridges.

    Now, this thing is BETTER than any other laser (cheaper copies, too)!

  • Cris

    Hi, i’m looking for a firmware update for my CLP-315, but seems impossible to find! anyone has some links to provide me? thanks in advance!

    • Bob

      The firmware and firmware software are here:

      The discussion (and how to use it) are here:

      Briefly: download the firmware above. Runs in Windows only (I used Vista). Drag the firmware and drop it on the updater ere file.

      That’s all! I do not know if this is the current/most recent firmware, but it does fix the Apple/Mac problem while trying to use the CLP-315 on a network.

    • Cris

      forget about it! now that i’ve followed your instructions, the printer is again LIVE!!! big up and thanks!

  • Spliffy

    For those still wanting to reset the page count, this worked for me.
    Download 320.rar here and run the Instaluj.bat.

    Takes 2 seconds.
    No more message about that my toner is empty yet it still prints fine.

    • Emanuele

      The hardware hack didn’t worked for me.
      I have clp-320, firmware
      After grounded pin 5 the printer won’t boot (it enter in an infinite loop and never stop trying booting). Probably the firmware is too new.

      Fortunately the patch in 320.rar worked for me too !
      After the patch the firmware is reported as f.

      Now toner is always 100 %, while all the other counter still keep incresing (total page count, total image count, etc.)

    • luca_brasi

      is it possible that you re-upload the 320.rar archive? plz

    • theo

      this looks like the ideal sollution but
      the url at wuala is not correct: gives error message
      Looks like we couldn’t find the page you’re looking for.

  • Barryrich

    I have a Samsung CLX-3175FW printer. I took the side to the motherboard off. My question is which chip is the EEPROM ? I see several 8 pin chips. Is there an identifying number. or an easy to find location? Many thanks in advance. Barryrich

    • Laurence Marks


      Two options.
      1. Look up the part numbers of all three part numbers (Google is your friend) and see which one is a ROM. Also check the pinout drawings to make sure you’ve identified the right pin.
      2. Post the part numbers of all three ICs here and we will tell you which is which. Hint: post all the numbers of each IC since you probably don’t know how to tell part numbers from date codes. Also, if there are manufacturer logos on the ICs, describe them, e.g., “e with a circle around it” or “fat N”.

  • Bob

    So, suddenly, after printing maybe 50 pages, the counter light started flashing from my clp-315. I printed the info page, and all cartridges (zeroed out just recently) were up to 900+. (I think they had 500 on them 50 pages ago).

    I redid the button thing (grounding the pin), but it would not let me print the pages (I got a red light).

    Several reboots later, I am back to “1” page printed. FYI: I have chipped cartridges, (taped), The reset occurred following a print withOUT the tape for one cycle.

    • Laurence Marks

      Ummm, well, yeah. It read the counts off the chip (another EEPROM) on the cartridge.

      This “fix” works by resetting the printer’s base EEPROM to the factory state and allowing the printer code to test that the original, factory, chipless cartridges are installed. For it to work, two conditions must be true:
      1) Mainboard chip is reset to factory ship state.
      2) Cartridges appear to be chipless.
      If Condition 2 is false, counts from the cartridges are used.
      Else if Condition 1 is false, counts in the mainboard chips are used.

      • Bob

        Cartridges were taped. Should have appeared “chip less”.

        • Laurence Marks

          I understood you to say that you taped the cartridges, and applied the reset fix. Then you untaped the cartridges for one page print and the previous counts came back, zombie-like. Then you re-taped the cartridges and those previous counts remained. This is what would happen, since the tests I described happen every time the printer is turned on.

          If I’ve misunderstood, please clarify what sequence you followed and what happened at each step.

          • Bob

            Reset to zero -> all taped
            Printed normally for weeks
            Yellow cartridge flashes: Print out shows 900 copies on all (Even though I printed only 50 pages and all are taped)
            Tried to reset–> could not (would get a red light preventing printing)
            restarted with/then without ground pin several times. Still no success at re-zeroing
            Remove tape for one cycle–> replaced
            Reset (pin grounded) –Now it zeroes

  • Johnny

    This trick can damage your printer. Keep going .. and you need a new printer.

    • Cris

      maybe you have tried, and now yours is damaged? did you have some proof, or what?

    • Laurence Marks

      Johnny, you must be a troll. The I2C bus that’s used here is an open-collector/open-drain serial link. Any component on the bus (including the switch recommended here) can ground the bus at any time without damage.

      Why don’t you tell us, in technical terms, exactly how you think damage would occur?

    • Terry

      “Keep going .. and you need a new printer.”
      There is absolutely nothing to lose then, as buying a new printer is cheaper than replacing the 4 cartridges.

      Good try mr samsung…

    • Brian

      I’d be interested to know the circumstances under which you could or did cause damage (it is unclear which you are claiming). As Laurence explained, you should be able to safely ground the bus without killing anything. More info will get you a better response.

      However, if you are merely trolling… OMG!!PONIES!!1!11ONE!!!!ROFLBBQ!…interweb balance restored.

  • Johnny

    K .. if u say so.
    For the samsung ml 1660, I have used the same trick.
    but after a while the info contained in 24C64 was damaged.
    Best make an eeprom backup.
    So printer does not start anymore.
    Maybe you fix for clp 315, works very well.. I don’t know.
    Have a nice day.

    • Brian

      Ah, that’s better. Your last comment smelled a bit more like troll material. It seems I was mistaken and I apologize.

      So, yea. I can’t disagree with what you are saying about the _information_ being damaged on the EEPROM chip. I think we all jumped to the hardware side of things when you said “damaged”. What you were really getting at may be better explained as “corrupted” or “bricked”.

      This is, of course, always a possibility when you start monkeying around with messages being passed to an EEPROM chip. I would certainly recommend backing up the contents of the EEPROM. I know I did before I started. Sound advice. In fact, I have included an Arduino sketch for dumping the contents of the EEPROM in the article. There are many (likely better) ways of going about it, though.

      Indeed, the hack seems to be working for most people quite well so far for CLP-315. I’m currently unaware of any bricked units as a result. I think the folks who have tried it on the wireless version (the 315W) may be seeing some issues with their MAC addresses. You’d have to read through all of the comments to see.

      Regardless, I was careful to write the article as a narrative of my experience. I didn’t (and still don’t) like to give advice as to whether or not people should attempt the hack themselves. Many people have found that the benefits outweighs the risk, though.

      As Terry put it:
      “There is absolutely nothing to lose then, as buying a new printer is cheaper than replacing the 4 cartridges.”

      So there you have it. Thanks for the word of caution and best of luck with your ML1660!

  • Johnny

    Other thing. I’m happy you have discover, too, this trick.. Anyway is old.. you can find on rusian forums. Maybe I’m a troll, thank you. And I just remeber other problem given by this trick, text orientation in page print. Better before using make an eeprom backup.

  • Johnny

    K. that was a long time ago and I did not remember exactly wo did it first :).
    Anyway nice work. ;).

  • Bob

    Problem: Get RED light when SDA is held to ground.

    Setup: CLP-315, SDA line to switch to ground, replacement cartridges with pins taped.

    Details: When the switch is depressed (holding SDA to ground) the CLP-315 goes through the LONG startup routine. The next step is supposed to be to print the color page and the Configuration page. BUT, the RED light stays on (preventing me from printing).

    Work around: If I release the switch prior to completing the entire startup routine, it occasionally will give me a GREEN light, allowing printing x2, and all counters are reset (to 1).

    Anyone else observe this? Is there a better work-around?

    • Laurence Marks

      I have this difficulty too. On the configuration page, my “Information” is:
      OS Version: V1.01.11.52 May-01-2009
      SPL-C Version: SPL-C 5.35 11-20-2007
      Engine Version: 0.00.61.T(0)
      Installed Date: 2013.07.25 (This must be the last time I reset it.)
      USB Serial Number: (not relevant)

      I was wondering if my printer had a ROM version later than others. but these dates all seem to go way back.

  • theo

    I have a samsung CLP-410.
    What do I do?
    I am not a nerd.

  • Bob

    Hi Laurence Marks,

    Here is my info:

    OS Version: V1.01.11.67.x Sep-10-2010 (newer than yours)
    SPL-C Version: SPL-C 5.35 11-20-2007 (same as yours)
    Engine Version: 0.00.65.T(0) (presumably newer)
    Installed Date: 2013.09.29 (This WAS the last time I reset it.)

    This does not provide me with any insights. Are you able to zero the Page Counts by releasing the ground prior to fully booting up as I have?

  • Bob

    Hi Theo-

    “theo on October 3, 2013 at 2:37 pm said:
    I have a samsung CLP-410.
    What do I do?
    I am not a nerd.”

    You are here, you are now officially a nerd; this is how we all started. Sadly, I have no info on the CLP-410.

    Our brilliant leader of this blog (whose name I cannot find here) needed a logic analyzer and bus pirate (and not just a little brilliance!) to figure this out. Repeating it for a new machine is not a trivial task.

    Perhaps if you posted some photos of your motherboard we could at least help you find the eeprom. Then, you could try grounding the appropriate pin to see if you could replicate the result on your machine.

    You would then be a real, honest-to-goodness nerd!

  • Bob

    Addendum to Laurence Marks,

    What I find curious is that it used to just work. I can’t imagine what changed.

    Did it ever cycle all the way through and give you a green light?

    • Laurence Marks

      I haven’t been able to zero the counts either. If I hold the button until late in the process, the printer hangs. If I release it early it seems to have no effect.

      When I did this mod (against my own better judgment) I did the soldering with the printer upright (normal orientation) instead of removing the cartridges and turning it on its side so the board was horizontal. I also didn’t use my big Luxo magnifier. I have wondered if I solder-bridged SDA to SCL (adjacent pin) but haven’t had time to take the printer apart and look carefully. Have you looked carefully at yours?

      • Bob


        I have not gone back and double checked. I have done a lot of SMD soldering before, so I am fairly confident that it is good. I did a quick solder on the correct pin then secured the wire so a bare area on the board with some hot glue as a strain relief.

        It is easy to clean up a solder bridge with some “solder wick”. It is just some copper braid that sucks up solder. For fine pitch SMD devices, I solder away without too much concern about solder bridges, then clean it up with some solder wick. On these multi pin devices it avoids a (more common) bad solder joint (that is often harder to trouble shoot than a solder bridge.

        I routinely use high power magnifiers and rest my wrist on a firm surface (some people avoid coffee, too!). With practice, it is easier/faster to do surface mount than through hole soldering. I actually find it quite relaxing – it helps create this zen-like focus.


        • Laurence Marks

          I’ve also done a good bit of SMT work, and have decent gear. I was just in a rush (bad idea: See “Zen and the Art of Motorcycle Maintenance”). But given other reports, I’m not sure if bridging is the issue.

  • Bob

    Hi Ken-

    Re: wires rather than a switch. I wish I had used a toggle switch rather than a tactile pushbutton. A minute doesn’t sound like a long time, but holding that button awkwardly on the back of the machine gets annoying fairly quickly.

  • Dan

    I just finished reading this complete blog (took a few hours) and i have to say i am pretty excited about possibly being able to fix my Samsung CLP-315W (own 2 of them). Will update findings/results.

  • Dan

    EUREKA! Bravo and thank you for this Journey, Brian Rumburg and all fellow posters (I can say that now). My hat is off to you all, with my most sincere appreciation! As a way to pay it forward, I have compiled EVERYTHING I did to fix my printer (MANY hours spent tinkering, T/S, and creating this posting [to my wife’s dismay]), almost all of this is already listed here on numerous posts, however, I wanted detailed, step by step (as close as I could get anyway) instructions, for the next person (and newly christened Nerds-welcome to the club 😉 needing to get their CLP-315w and probably (untested by me) CLP-315/CLP-310 printers working. This way they would not have to read this whole blog (all though I HIGHLY RECOMMEND IT!). Therefore, I am very descriptive where needed (everywhere) IMHO and this post is quite large for that reason. Thank you ALL! And without further adieu…

    (better safe than sorry)

    Model: CLP-315W
    Manufactured: July 2009
    M/C: CLP-315W/XXA
    OS Ver: V1.00.01.28.X Jan-13-2009
    EEPROM Chip: 4256BWP (Pin 1 = SDC)
    Price: $99 ea. (Bought 2) on Black Friday (for sure) from Be$t Boy (or was it Orifice Max?), Nov 2010 (thought you might like to know this)
    Photos available at: also available at (not a real site, I don’t think lol)

    Printer Status (Prior to hack): The originally supplied Black OEM Toner cartridge was refilled with Fillserv toner and it’s associated refill chip (okay quality, but not available now in color toners). I ran out of the black toner and (again) replaced it and the “Chip”. Then the color toners started to go, and well, they all eventually ran out, or so was displayed by the solid red LEDs on the color toner status indicators. At the same time I started getting a Device Home Error (I think that was the name) showing a paper “jam” of all things by the printer status program Samsung provided via my PC driver. So after much research, I determined I needed to replace my Photo Interrupter sensor (because of the “jams”-it would just stop in the middle of a page print) Samsung Part# 0604-001393 which costs $2.09 from Appliancepart$pro$, this was after much goooogling and $11 total with shipping.
    Status light: Constant Red or flashing (don’t remember which). All color toner LEDs flashing RED. Almost immediately after replacing the interrupter, solid red LEDs for color toner status (don’t believe to be related). So I attempted the Hack Brian started on this blog (SDC ground during init). After (and expected) the SDC ground: “Network Printer status is not available” via the Samsung Printer driver on my LAN.

    Printer Status (Current): EEPROM Pin-1 (SDC) wired to chassis ground via pushbutton on/off switch. I used this to reset all 4 cartridge counters to 100% toner remaining and the page count to 2 (you gotta print the 2 page report [Config and Network], right?). Status Light: Constant Green – GOOD! Network Light and Status: Constant Blue – GOOD!

    Tools (I used): Fluke Multimeter, Small Phillips screwdriver, Solder Iron & Solder, Dremel with plastic cutter bit, Hot glue gun and glue stick, utility knife, wire cutters, flashlight, magnifying glass, Wire stripper/crimper, Cigarette lighter (for removing wire insulation)

    Items needed: Electrical Tape (Red to identify and monitor possible melting-not probable), 22awg wire (I used CAT5), 2x sets of Insulated Span head 22awg crimp connectors, momentary or pushbutton switch (GB Model# SPST used-would recommend using one with a better Ohm tolerance, it is all they had available at H.D. home improvement store). 1/2″ Stainless steel washer for external SPST switch mounting.

    Caution: If using SPST switch (or when adding ANY wiring/switches) be careful when installing as not to mount it in the way of the printer chassis mounting and/or the plate the network/USB connectors are mounted on. Also verify that the wiring added cannot get caught in the motor “fly” wheel (gray/silver thing that spins).

    MY HACK:
    Followed instructions and video links here (and on Me-Tube, found it first) to short the EEPROM’s SDC signal to chassis ground (without first reading ALL posts listed here). I used a Multimeter to verify Ohm readings. Ideally 0.3 Ohms or less, but I confirmed I had at least 1 Ohm for my SDC ground before my initial SDC reset (at pin-1). The continuity path was tested from the EEPROM’s pin-1 tracer wire (now soldered blue wire, see pics), through the crimps and switch, to the power cord’s ground pin at the wall outlet end prior to soldering. It was not tested while connected in circuit, however the power cord WAS UNPLUGGED from the 115V power outlet during testing for continuity.


    After turning on the printer, it would not do ANYTHING, no sounds, motor turning, nothing but a solid red status indicator letting me know it had power. I thought I had “Bricked my printer”. This was because I hadn’t taped the toner cartridges and because I hadn’t been removing the ground from the EEPROM’s SDC when the Green Light first flashed on the status indicator. I had previously tried keeping ground until initialization completed, and I had also tried keeping ground until the printer started making its first sound. No luck, worthless printer now or so I thought. I was determined to fix this printer! I then read ALL of the posts on this BLOG, and here is what I found/did:

    I will not go over how to mount the switch you decide to use, because to me it is self explanatory and unique to the switch you purchase, however, do read my conclusions on this matter (see below).

    Chip less or Chipped cartridges with tape over their pins must be used.
    SDC must be held to ground (via the switch if installed) BEFORE powering on the printer and removed from ground, AFTER the status indicator blinks orange twice, flashes red and then switches to green. To be clear-Once it switches to green, remove ground from SDC immediately. Let it finish it’s extended initialization (approx 60 seconds, I didn’t time it). Press and hold “the button” until it just starts flashing green (the slow rate). It will now print the color test page. Once that print out is completed and the LED is now solid green, press and hold “the button” (6 or more seconds) until it flashes at the faster rate. It will now print the configuration and network reports showing 100% Toner remaining on all four cartridges with a page count of 3 (test color page you already printed and the newly printed Configuration and Network Reports).

    Now unplug for 30+ seconds from power outlet. Reconnect power and reprint configuration and network pages (hold for approx 6 seconds and it should now show 5 pages printed). This is to verify that the EEPROM saved the reset. Doing this will reset your printer’s network information also (including the MAC address but NOT user changed TCP/IP settings saved to the printer’s wireless network EEPROM-someone please verify, that just doesn’t sound right but I’m pretty sure it didn’t for me and I just don’t have the time to redo it at this point–follow my recommendations below and you won’t have to worry about it). So…

    Now that my printer’s IP address has been changed to and MAC Address to 00:00:00:00:00:00 I have to reconfigure it for the network. This is because I use it wirelessly w/o connection to a PC? (Verify?)

    (Note: I’m NOT a Network Guru, so here is what I did)
    No MAC address listed on Configuration Report (due to SDC grounding), printer does not print on the LAN anymore (not a wired connection). Connect patch cable (not crossover) to printer from a router port. Loaded browser and input TCP/IP Information:IP Address from the newly printed Network Configuration Report into the address line of the browser. This successfully loaded Samsung’s SyncThru Web service to access the printer. I then went to Network Settings>Wireless Wizard. Chose my SSID. Input my network key. No wireless link established (as per SyncThru Web), No blue LED on printer. Disconnected patch cable and rebooted the printer-same results. Reconnected patch cable and loaded SyncThru Web again. Went to Network Settings>Reset and reset both options. Powered down printer and reinitialized. Printed Configuration Page and whalaaa…MAC address is back and so are the factory TCP/IP settings of course. Blue wireless network LED is solid. Loaded SyncThru Web via my browser and the NOW factory default IP Address (taken from the Newly printed Network Configuration page) so I can input my network settings.
    Do not forget to reprint the Printer’s Network Configuration page anytime you need to verify it’s CURRENT network settings (this is due to the default DHCP auto assign settings, I think-verify?). Which is why you may not be able to find the printer via the default IP Address after the Printer Network Setting reset (as was my problem). Loaded the SyncThru Web and ran the Wireless Wizard again. You may not need to do the following part:

    Changed my printer TCP/IP settings to Static and my (custom setup when I initially installed the printer) IP address for the printer. (This info is on one of your previously printed Network Configuration pages, probably the one you printed prior to the SyncThru Web network reset)

    Must reconfigure the Printer on your network every time the SDC is held to ground (at a minimum if you use it wirelessly).
    Melted Plastic housing when soldering SDC to the switch (see pics), be careful.
    GB Model: SPST On/Off Switch ohm tolerance/variance too high (readings varied anywhere from 1 Ohm to 12.5 Ohms with good multimeter probe connection) which may increase over time, causing SDC to not “ground” properly when button is actuated. However, it did work all 4 times I tested it (only the first time did I actuate it until it read only 1 Ohm). I did not measure again because I was afraid I would break my (crappy) solder connection to the EEPROM chip.

    1. Print your Printer’s Configuration and Network Report PRIOR to starting by pressing and holding “the button” for 10 seconds (better safe than sorry).
    2. Know your Router’s USER ID, PASSWORD, and NETWORK KEY, before starting.
    3. Once everything is working and you are finally ready to stop fooling with this darn printer OR if you are like me, ready to get some sleep…
    4. Print: (yes again, NO, do not use ANY copy you have already printed) a new Configuration and Network Report.
    5. Print: Your Router Information (including User ID, Password, Network Key, IP Settings, MAC Address, SSID, and etc.) and a copy of this post (the blog is just to large-I tried it).
    6. Place all of these documents UNDER your printer and feel GREAT knowing that you have successfully Hacked your printer, become a NERD, AND saved money! (Geeeez this took forever to do, my wife is going to kill me…)

    Note: I will be happy to help anyone who requests it, just understand I am a VERY busy man. Just know that it may be days, or even weeks before I can respond. I hope this helps and thanks again all!

    • Dan

      Update: In order to get a response from me you must reply to one of my posts. I will only have emails set to “Notify me of follow-up comments by email”.

  • Dan

    I just printed that post from my HACKED CLP-315W! Love it, thanks again and again!

    • Brian

      (c: Excellent! I’m so happy this worked for you. Thank you for the kind remarks and for sharing your experience with the rest of us. I’m sure those who have struggled with the blank MAC address problem will appreciate your detailed solution. Thanks!


      • Dan

        Just trying to do my part Brian! Thanks.

        • http://google zachariah

          Hi,am zachary,i own a konica minolta pagepro 1490MF printer.I wanted to know if toner chip for this type of printer can also be reset permanently because am incurring a lot of costs in buying original toner which usually comes with a toner reset card.Please advise me.I just want to be refilling the toner.Thank you.

  • Bob

    Funny that you are having trouble with pins and similar symptoms. I wonder if the tape on mine is incompletely covering the pins… Hmmmm….

    • Laurence Marks

      I would be delighted if reporting my foolish mistake helped someone else so quickly.

  • Dwight

    Another successful CLP-315 hack using the procedures described here. Many thanks to all the contributors to this blog.

    I did find that holding the SDC to ground for the entire extended power up reset cycle did not work for me, probably because all my cartridges were already beyond their rated capacity (four constant-on red lights), but releasing SDC during power up as soon as the display starts blinking green was all that was required to reset the page counts and allow a configuration report to be printed. After another power cycle without SDC grounded, the configuration report data returned to normal as described by many above.

    • George

      After Restarting the printer.. again the led lights (without flashing). Otherwise that method work as long as the printer are on power.
      Any clues? ( totaly empty toners could make that?)

  • Dino

    I did not solder. I took a wire and crimped a small loop on one end and attached that to the ground screw. The other end I crimped a open loop and broke of one side of the firk shape. That left me with a solid metal pointer. I just touched the chip on startup. It took a couple tries but worked easy. No soldering.

    • tham

      this looks like the solution I need. Could you be more specific and explain what you connected with what an how? A picture? thx

      • Laurence Marks


        Here is what Dino did:

        –Take a piece of wire.
        –Strip insulation back from both ends.
        –Bend one end into a loop, loosen a board mounting screw, slide loop under screw head, tighten screw.
        –Bend other end a little for convenience, touch to SDA pin before powering on, power on, release at end of cycle or when light turns green.

        The problem with this approach is that you will have to take the printer apart again and repeat this the next time the counts expire. Better to install a switch.

        • thamcore

          great for a non-nerd like me, who got lost in this discussion thread.

  • Bob

    Hi Dan,

    I had a problem similar to yours (red light of death). You noted the following:

    ” So after much research, I determined I needed to replace my Photo Interrupter sensor (because of the “jams”-it would just stop in the middle of a page print) Samsung Part# 0604-001393 which costs $2.09 from Appliancepart$pro$, this was after much goooogling and $11 total with shipping.”

    I tried the replacement (cheap, easy) but: no joy.

    I wonder how you learned of this repair? Perhaps it may have more details that will help me troubleshoot mine.


  • George

    Dear Brian

    First of all thank you so much for your wonderful solution that I am sure you save alot of people and they should donate at least al least 5$ when they saved.. hundrends.
    Well… my problem is ( in the middle of the Greek crisis – so no money/no honey) that I try to apply this method in my printer ( I have electronic “know how” since the era of tubes and illegal radio transmission LOL) CLP315 USB only.
    – Red light and all toner lights ON of course…
    I feel like I have missing here and please help me if you can.
    – I shortcut (or button) the pin with the ground at different period of times so to be sure that I have make all the possible compinations to reset. (even to press the button when light flashing finish . – even for two minutes (about) after initilazation finish.. etc) .. with no luck..
    Of course, the reaction of the printer is as you describe.. ( long initialization time).
    The only difference is that I make try your whole method after printer finished completely its own (demo without chip) toners. The smart panel just say..Toner Exhausted Yellow.. blah blah blah..
    Its too late for me also my friend.. or the best solution is to throw out of the window.. because I am not willing to give 150E for toners when the average salary are 500..
    Thanks you listen my sad story , and also for the time you spend.. read my tech problem.. and for sure.. you will have my 5$ donation.. (EVERYBODY HAVE TO DO THAT) :):)
    Thanks again in advance.
    Greetings from Greece

    • Brian

      Thank you for the kind words, sir! I am sorry to hear you are having trouble getting the hack to work on your printer. Unfortunately, it is difficult to make any promises regarding the success of the procedure. That being said, it seems to be working for many people.

      From what I gather in your message, you have already tried the two things that usually help when people are stuck:
      -Grounding the SDA pin for various lengths of time during the startup procedure. (For me, I held it to ground during the entire procedure. For some others, it seems to help to hold it for less time.)
      -Your toner cartridges do not have chips (good).

      It sounds like you are at least on the right track. Your printer is taking a long time to initialize when you are grounding SDA. This tells me that you are indeed interrupting communication during the startup process.

      I would continue trying to vary the length of time you hold SDA to ground during boot.

      Make sure you run steps 4 and 5 after each attempt. These two steps are what actually commit the new page totals to the EEPROM.

      If you continue to have difficulty, it might help to post some more detailed information about your printer. Pictures of your motherboard (with closeups of your soldering, if possible) and a configuration report would be a great place to start.

      No need to donate, though thank you for the kind gesture! I have learned so much from other people on the internet at no charge. It seems appropriate to give back where I can.

      Good luck!

      • George

        Dear Brian

        Thank you very much for your reply.
        First of all forgive my poor English that frustrating you when you read my message :)
        Well… we have success.. Yesssssss!
        I think the whole point of the counting reset, come from the right timing with the SDA grounding..
        I was try to gound the SDA on many.. many..many.. different time points through the printer initilization proccess..
        The printer react on that, because as you said , keep long the initilazing proccess, and this is a sign of the good path..
        Probably…respectively the firmware , the timming (the right time of hack) is different.
        So here are my info for anyone may want to try that:

        Printer: CLP315 / usb only version
        OS Version: V1.00.11.67.x Sep-10-2010
        SPL-C Version: SPL-C 5.35 11-20-2007
        Engine Version: 0.00.65.T(0)

        For this printer the hacking work (of course based on your wonderful hack with the button ) are to press the button and keep it press.. turning on the power… and when you see the “second” **green** flashing ( at the very early stage of initializing) realease the button. Its the small period of time between the green flashing and the printer motor starting.
        So for that Version this “timming” worked. At least for my two printers I have ( exactly the same)

        Again Brian Thank you so much for the knowlenge you give us totally free and you make this world better and fair. You give us lessons of kindness.

        (sorry for my English)

        • Brian

          Excellent! I’m happy you were able to get it figured out.

          Thanks for posting your firmware details. Hopefully this will help someone else in your situation in the future.

          Enjoy cheap printing! (c:

          • Julius

            Brian, this thread is still going strong, thanks to you for starting it.. My problem after doing this reset on a CLP-300 is the lost of MAC address and as of now they are still 00:00 …00:00. The printer is still usable via the USB port, but I can no longer set it up as network printer. If you or anyone know how to restore the MAC address, that would be cool.

          • Brian

            Julius, I can’t reply to your post directly (I think WordPress only allows comment threads to get to a certain depth), so hopefully you get this message.

            I’m delighted that this has become a community effort! It is great to hear other people’s experience with the hack.

            I don’t have a wireless model, but we have heard from several people with the MAC address problem you are running into. People have posted various solutions from rebooting the printer several times to performing a factory reset through the web interface (connected via ethernet cable, of course).

            Check these posts out:

            These folks may be able to provide you with some more details if you are still stuck.

            Good luck!

  • Paddy


    Firstly I have a Samsung clp-320 similar but not the same, I have 1 flashing light on the blue toner and solid red on the yellow toner and it also wont print at all because the drum needs to be reset. So I tried this hack i have a push switch just like the one above in the video. And i think i found the chip (in a different place on the clp-320.

    However when i did this hack it configures but then i get a warning light and 4 solid toner lights?

    Anyone successfully done this hack or a hack on a clp-320, if so a detailed pictures or instructions would be very much appreciated..


    Paddy (uk)

    • Laurence Marks

      Errr, umm, Paddy, you didn’t mention taping over the brass contacts on the edges of all four cartridges. You did do that, right?

      Here’s a brief summary of the way we believe the printers work:
      There are two page counters for each cartridge. One counter is in the “chip” on each cartridge. Many new printers are shipped with cartridges that have no chips and hence no counters. If the microprocessor in the printer cannot detect a chip in the cartridge then it assumes a chipless cartridge and stores page counts in an EEPROM memory on the electronics card. Counts for one, two, three, or all four colors could be stored there.

      This hack erases the counts in the EEPROM on the card, not the chips on the cartridges. To make the hack work, you must make the printer think the cartridges have no chips AND erase the counts on the EEPROM.

      If you open the front door of the printer you will see spring loaded pins on it which make contact with three points on each of the four cartridges. Cover the three contacts on each of the four cartridges with a piece of wide electrical tape so counts on the EEPROM are used.

      • http://google zachariah

        Hi,am zachary,i own a konica minolta pagepro 1490MF printer.I wanted to know if toner chip for this type of printer can also be reset permanently because am incurring a lot of costs in buying original toner which usually comes with a toner reset card.Please advise me.I just want to be refilling the toner.Thank you.

    • Laurence Marks

      Paddy, another question….

      The pins on an 8-pin IC are numbered like this:
      8 7 6 5
      | |
      ) |
      | o |
      1 2 3 4

      where pin 1 is at the end with the “)” indent and the “o” dimple.

      Make sure you connect to pin 5, not pin 1. Remember that the IC in your printer could be placed on the board in a different orientation than the one in our CLP-315s. Look for the orientation marks “)” or “o” to be sure.

  • Steph

    Hello from France, and thank you for what you found. It shows what it is possible with printers that we could never think about.
    Please, could you tell me if this works on CLP-360. We don’t have too much money so knowing that, I’d search for someone that could solder that little wire ! 😉

    By advance, many many thanks.
    S. from France

    • Laurence Marks


      A search in this forum for “360” finds only your post. This suggests you may be the first one to have reported on CLP-360. Perhaps someone else has tried it your post will stimulate a response.

      Bonne chance

  • David

    Super litle hack i struggled with my clp300 to reset and after several unsucsessful atempts that didn’t work grounding pin 5 on the 24c64 but keep on getting red status light till i put some paper in the printer and restart it all the toner cartridges was reset after i tape the pins on all four but all the other counts remain.
    as was before the reset but the printer work now with the refilled cartridges.
    Thanks for this super hack now my clp300 is working again.

  • Dave

    I have a CLX-3175FW. I recently removed a reset chip that i bough from ebay. I was not very happy with it as the printer was always hot.

    i reinstalled my original bios chip and the printer worked as normal. I have the chip marked 4256BWP the B may be an 8.
    I need to know if there is a toner reset that can be done on this printer with this chip.

    Is there any way to identy wich pin is number 1 on this small of a chip?
    Witht he text printed on the ship reading left to right should the pin layout look like this:
    8 7 6 5
    1 2 3 4

    I tried grounding what I believed to be pin 5 and started the printer. I get to the slect country menu after a long boot, but I can not select USA when it resets so I picked UK. This tells me my toner is invalid. I guess it should as the printer and toner are both from the USA. Next I disconnected pin 7 from the board and jumped it to pin 8. pin 8 was still connected to the board. Now all i get is errors saying to replace all the parts of my printer and my toner is exhausted.

    Please let me know thanks.

    • Laurence Marks

      Dave asked: “Is there any way to identy wich pin is number 1 on this small of a chip?
      Witht he text printed on the ship reading left to right should the pin layout look like this:
      8 7 6 5
      1 2 3 4”

      There are a couple of dommonly used ways which ICs are marked to indicate which corner pin is pin 1. ICs are marked in this manner prior to stamping the manufacturer, part number, and date code. They probably test the parts and only stamp those which pass. I tried to indicate these orientation marks with “ASCII art” above, but the silly WordPress software collapsed my drawing, so I will now have to use the proverbial 1000 word alternative.
      1) There will be a small dimple in the plastic above pin 1.
      2) The end of the package which has pins 1 and 8 will have a semicircular indentation at the centerline, midway between pins 1 and 8.

      The datasheet for the STMicroelectronics ST4256BW is here:

      The appropriate drawing seems to be Figure 16. It appears that neither of the commonly used methods is used on this part. Instead there is a bevel along the side with pin 1, running from pin 1 to pin 4. Look at the top view (lower left of Figure 16) and the end view (top right of Figure 16) and you can see the bevel.

      • Dave

        Thank you so much.

        I got the write protect to work now I just need to find a reset for an american setup. My yellow toner is only 5 pages away from the low tonner warning.

        Can the grounding of pin 5 method be used on a US system with US starter toner(no chips)?

        Currently with write protection jumpered high i can not access the tech mode. Is that normal?

        • Laurence Marks

          You have not manipulated the Write Protect line. You have grounded pin 5 which is Serial Data (SDA), not pin 7, Write Control (-WC) which performs the write-protect function. (I’m not sure where people get this notion.)

          Follow ,

          the URL given above, and take a look at Figure 2 and the signal descriptions for SDA and -WC as given in sections 2.2 and 2.4.

          As Brian Rumburg explains above, this device is a serial EEPROM. The microcontroller places commands (e.g., Write location 0005) and data (e.g., with data 0505) on SDA, one bit at a time, and pulses SCL (Serial Clock) once for each bit. If the command were a read command, the processor would send the read command (e.g., Read location 0006) and then cease driving SDA but continue pulsing SCL. With each pulse, the EEPROM would return one bit of the value at location 0006. The SDA signal is bi-directional; either the controller or the EEPROM can drive it at appropriate times.

          The grounding-and-then-printing-two-items sequence effectively causes the printer to:
          –Read current page counts from the EEPROM (non-volatile storage) into temporary storage. (By grounding SDA, we cause zeros to be loaded instead of the real processor values.)

          –Increment the page counts to 1 from 0 by printing the test page.

          –Write the page counts back to EEPROM by printing the statistics page.

          Now, what Brian discovered was that page counts are stored in two different places. For the cartridges shipped with a new (not factory-refurbished) printer, the counts are stored in the EEPROM on the controller card. These cartridges have no chips. If you open the front cover of the printer and look at the cartridge edges you won’t see any metal contacts on the left end of the front-facing edge.

          For replacement cartridges or those shipped in a refurbished printer, the page counts are stored in chips (more EEPROMS) on the printer cartridges. Spring-loaded pins on the inside of the front cover touch the contacts on the front edges of the cartridges.

          The printer controller first tests to see if there are chips on the cartridges. If so, it uses the counts stored there. If not it reads counts from the system EEPROM. Therefore, in order to make Brian’s hack work, you have to fool the printer into determining that the cartridges have no contacts. To do this you put a strip of insulating tape (e.g., black electrical tape) over the contacts on all four of the cartridges.

          Note that this is not a permanent fix. It merely resets the counts one time. If you print enough pages you will have to perform this reset again (and again…). That’s why it’s advisable to mount a switch on the printer to perform this function–unless you enjoy taking the printer covers off and on.

        • Dave

          This seems weird I reset the black toner on my clx-3175fw by booting with pin 5 grounded and pins 7 & 8 jumped. It gave me the dumb invalid toner error. Then I cleared all settings then for fun I opened the door and jumpered all 4 pins on the door for the black cart. I closed the door and to my supprise it cleard the error. Then I printed a supplies report. Next I removed the jumpers on the black carts door sensor and rebooted with 7&8 jumped all else was regular. To my surprise it cleared the black toner.

          Anyone have any ideas for reseting the other colors?

          • Dave

            Laurence Marks Thank you
            you really cleared it up for me.
            And thank you to all that have posted here.

            easy steps as I see them
            Ground pin 5
            boot printer wait till it stops
            un ground pin 5

            If you get invalid toner error clear all settings open and close the door. It should allow you to print now.
            Print something that uses all colors: magenta, yellow, cyan, and black.

            Your page count should now be 1 on all colors

            Reboot ungrounded and all toners will be reset.

            Now to lock the values jump pins 7 & 8 on the chip.

            Thanks so much

          • Laurence Marks

            Your sequence is unnecessarily complicated and may not work. Do this:
            –Ground pin 5
            –boot printer wait till it stops
            –un ground pin 5 (Sets all counts to 0 pages)
            –Print the demo page (short press on red triangle button) or some other page with colors (Sets all counts to 1 page)
            –Print the stats page (long press on red triangle button). Writes the page counts to EEPROM as a side effect. THIS IS IMPORTANT. DO THIS BEFORE REBOOTING OR THE EFFECT OF THE RESET WILL BE LOST.

          • Laurence Marks

            Obviously you are not bothering to read and comprehend my responses. :-((

            You must tape over the contacts on ALL FOUR cartridges in order to reset the OTHER SET of counts held in the EEPROM on the system card and to FORCE the printer to use that EEPROM for ALL FOUR COLORS.

  • Dave

    why would I get invalid toner when I did the grounding the first time. My toners are the starter carts no chip.

    System is US and toners came with it new from store 3 or 4 years ago.

    I did have a crappy reset bios chip installed inplace of the original one though.

    • Laurence Marks

      Dave wrote “why would I get invalid toner when I did the grounding the first time. My toners are the starter carts no chip.

      System is US and toners came with it new from store 3 or 4 years ago.

      I did have a crappy reset bios chip installed inplace of the original one though.”

      I can only guess that the coder of that chip assumes you have chipped replacement cartridges in place and presents that error if there are no chips. The hack presented here takes advantage of a behavioral quirk in the factory code. Can you revert to that version? Read the entire forum. I think there is a discussion above on where to find that code and how to install it.

      • Dave

        I know this may not be the place to ask but my printer seems to be extremely hot after a few prints and it stays that way for hours after I am done printing. I dont believe it is realy going into sleep mode. The computer program says the “printer is sleeping”, but the LCD on the printer says “Ready to Copy 01” as usual. Has anyone seen this before on their CLX-3175.

  • mihr

    Hello, good work!!
    Someone tell me, where i can buy toner refill?Cheap!!
    To my cpl-310, thanks!!

    • Ebbe

      Depends where you live. I haven’t got my crystal ball beside me at the moment, so i would recommend a Google search in Your native language.
      That’s what i did.

      Happy hunting.

  • Torrent Downloader

    I have read so many articles regarding the blogger lovers however
    this post is really a pleasant post, keep it up.

    • Dan

      Does anyone have a source for CLP-315 refill toners that they would highly recommend?

      • Laurence Marks

        Understand that what works for me might not work for you. I’ve been buying from Meritline, selected because of their low price+shipping. (They sell just toner; some suppliers sell toner with replacement chips–not needed because of this hack.) I used the black and it seems to have worked just fine. I also used a Meritline black refill in my GF’s Brother printer. I ordered some color refills but haven’t needed to use them yet.

        Meritline, like some of the other suppliers, suggests you first dump all the remaining toner from your cartridges before refilling. I did that the last time but am beginning to think that’s just a way to get you to use more toner. Next time I think I will just refill the cartridge.

        Refilling these is easy and Meritline sends a CD with full directions–and a few useful utilities–with each order.

        Please don’t hold me responsible if this doesn’t work as well for you as it has for me. My two experiences may not be representative of the entire population.

        • Dan

          Thanks for the toner refill recommendation. I will give meritline a try. I don’t need it right now, so i am waiting for a sale/coupon. I plan on ordering all 4 toner refills. Will post opinion after usage.

      • Roger

        Try looking on your local buy & sell site (Kijiji) for people selling their used CLP printers.

        I am going to buy one tomorrow for $20 – assuming its status page shows low print volumes (and no sign of the ‘hack’ on the printer). I simply want it for the toner cartridges.

        Thanks to Brian for the hack – it worked great on my CLP-315.

  • Ottoman Turk Mehmet

    Hi Brian, first of all, thank you for sharing these useful and valuable tricks with us.
    I would like to share my experience with another laser printer Samsung CLP 300 (or CLP-300 for the search engines).
    I covered all the chips on the toners. Thanks to the datasheet, I managed to name the pins. Unfortunately the only useful thing from your helpful steps , for resetting CLP 300 , is to connect SDA with 3.3V pin (Vcc, maximum 5V) while turning the machine on. This connection has to be kept for about 2 minutes. So, I left the printercase unmounted, covered it slightly with a beautiful colorful laser printed picture of Mount Fuji, and every time it needs to start, I need to establish connection. I can live with that.
    The step “print configuration page” does not work, as some geek previously stated.

    Keep up the good work,
    Ottoman Turk Mehmet

  • Kzov

    You’re the best man

  • DMA

    I have been following this page for a while now. I have a CLP-315 (probably the first version) which I have been thinking about re-setting but never got around to it. I have the original toner cartridges. Never changed them and only refilled them once. Page count was above 1450 and all the warning lights were on. However it was printing ok, so I did not bother. In the X-mas break, I thought I’d give it a try.

    When I opened up the printer, all the electronics were too small for my liking. I could not contemplate trying to solder anything to the chip with my clumsy hands. So, eventually, what I did was to take a thin piece of wire, sling it through the pin on the chip and keep mild tension on the wire pulling it outward, so that it does not touch anything else and pressing other end of the wire with a small screwdriver to the ground point shown on Brian’s video. I did need assistance at this point to turn on the printer as both my hands were occupied. My 10 year old son who was keenly watching turned on the switch for me. The printer went through it’s long…. start up cycle as described by Brian. Once the printer was quite, I removed the screwdriver holding in the ground end of the wire but kept on some light pulling tension on the chip end of the wire as I did not want it touching anything other than No 8 pin. I printed a config page and and a regular test page. Success!!! Turned off the printer and wiggled out the little loop of wire from the pin of the chip. Re-assembled the printer and it’s as good as new.

    It was not a permanent solution but I’m sure it’s enough for me for the next 2 – 3 years.

    Many many thanks Brian. Wishing you and everyone visiting this page a very happy, healthy and successful new year.

    • Laurence Marks

      Well, large hands or not (mine are huge), you were 95% of the way there. Once you had the wire hooked and taut, all you needed to do was add a drop of solder. In 2-3 years when your son is 13, redo the process but while he holds the wire taut, you take a small soldering pencil with fine point, put a SMALL drop of solder on the tip and touch it to the IC lead. (Since it’s an end lead, you can approach from the end-easier than the top). Hold for a few seconds as the droplet transfers to the wire and lead by capillary attraction. Withdraw the pencil and blow on the lead. Then your son can release the tension.

      • DMA

        :) Thanks for the encouragement. I just may try to do that next time.

    • Brian

      Awesome! I love hearing about new ways people are performing the hack. I think it is cool that you found a way to do it without soldering because many folks are intimidated by that (especially surface mount soldering).

      To expand on your technique a bit, I wonder if you could use insulated wire-wrap wire. It might be possible to fish it under the SDA leg (as you did), twist it, tape it to the mainboard, and then then send it out the back of the printer giving you easy access to the SDA pin from the outside. Then you would simply ground it to the metal chassis the next time you wanted to reset the page counts.

      Maybe you can give it a try in a few years! (c; Bravo, sir.

  • theo

    still nobody experience with PLC 415

  • Bob

    Alas, my Samsung is truly dead. This thread has served me well. I would much love another color laser printer with an inexpensive cost per page.

    What print (that is AVAILABLE) do people recommend? Your thoughts?

  • Sigrid

    I have a CLP-320N and did the hack, but i dident work. now it is printing empty test and configuration pages. The lichts are stil red.
    I solderd a wire to te SDA a pin on the 4256BWP chip and have the other end outside the printer. While starting up i connected to ground (on the USB port) and the starting up takes forever.

  • Sigrid

    and after more restarting whith the sda pin connected to ground it does not print at all. Ther are only red lichts on :-(

    • Laurence Marks

      Hmmm. Based on the comments I would infer that there are at least three different seriies: CLP-300, CLP-310/315, and CLP-320. This hack relies on four quirks in the 310/315 firmware:
      1) Counts are read from EEPROM non-volatile storage at startup
      2) Firmware continues even if the counts are all zero
      3) Counts are updated when the demo page is printed
      4) Counts are written back to EEPROM non-volatile storage when the configuration page is printed.

      Obviously if quirk (2) does not exist in CLP-320 firmware, the printer will hang and this hack won’t work. Owners will have to find one themselves using tools similar to those Brian discusses. It moght involve hardware or might simply involve examining the software and disabling the step which increments the page count.

      If quirks (1), (3), or (4) don’t exist in the CLP-320, it would probably boot but page counts won’t be reset and stored when demo and configuration pages are printed.

      • Ross

        I did post about my solution to this problem before, that was simply to open then close the rear door on my printer when the light went red, then print the demo page. For me opening and closing the door appears to have put the printer out of “red led mode” and back into ready mode.

        • Laurence Marks

          Thanks for the reminder, Ross. Guess the others didn’t read completely through the forum.

  • Gary Davis

    Like Sigrid, I was not able to get the printer (CLP 325W) hack to work either (on chip 24512WP). The printer now prints blank pages and also I can no longer connect via the network (wired or wireless) tho USB does connect.

    I soldered the wire to SDA pin 5 and touched it to ground while powering up (had to put the printer top back on). I disconnected when the motor started up. The printer continued the startup, apparently retrying (light pattern re-started two or three times). I printed the demo page (blank). I had no net connection till restarting the printer. The counters had not reset (looking using the web SyncThru interface). My router is set to assign the same IP based on the printer’s MAC via DHCP so the net connection did work – wired or wireless.

    As I mentioned, at this point the network is no longer connecting. Even the Samsung setup tools on the PC were not able to find the IP or reset the WiFi.

    I do happen to have a refill kit with the chips – my Yellow is out according to the monitor. Page counters are under 1000 (a bit over 900 for black). Maybe putting the chip into Yellow will let it print again tho I am not hopeful about the network connection.


    • Laurence Marks

      As noted in a previous post of mine, (JANUARY 22, 2014 AT 3:04 PM) this hack works because four things came together in the firmware (code executed by the onboard microprocessor) of the CLP-310/CLP-315/CLP-315W series printers.

      If any one of the four firmware quirks is not present in the firmware of other series, this trick WILL NOT WORK. We have seen enough comments in this blog to assume that the CLP-300 and CLP-320/CLP-325 series do not contain all four of these quirks, and this trick won’t work. Owners of these series have a couple of options.

      1) Buy replacement toner kits that come with new chips with counts reset to zero. MeritLine, for example, sells these kits for about $10 more than refill kits with just the toner.
      2) Buy a computer attachment and software that re-writes the chips in your current cartridges to zero. Not sure if these are offered for CLP-series printers. Google is your friend.
      3) Samsung printers are firmware-upgradable, in case the factory finds a bug and needs to upgrade printers in the field. Third parties have analyzed the software (what Brian was begining to do when he found this shortcut) and provided non-Samsung firmware upgrades that don’t update cartridge page counts. Buy and install that firmware. Google is your friend.
      4) Use a refilling-service like Cartridge World which re-writes the chips on your cartridges when they refill them.
      5) Buy third-party cartridges with new chips–a little cheaper than real Samsung cartridges.
      6) Buy real Samsung cartridges.
      7) Buy Brian a CLP-325 printer so he can reverse engineer the bus or firmware and find a change that works for that series.

      • thamcore

        For my work I print black and white with a Brother DCP025.
        To more than double the pages printed with this one is very easy: block two little round windows at either side of the cartrige.

        I use my Samsung CLP415NW sparingly when I need colour. Now I have the impression that the inklevels as reported by the printer get lower, even when I do not use the printer.
        Ever heard about a timer being part of the samsung printer scam?

  • Gary Davis

    Thank for the info, Laurence.

    I did stick on the reset chips on the toner cartridges and it did resolve the yellow empty warning an the USP connection showed the toner status of all four at 100%. I actually did not add the toner to the carts, just the chips.

    However, it still prints blank pages and still no Ethernet connectivity.

    I think the first attempt at grounding SDA at startup started causing the blank pages. I did not loose connectivity until I later did a network reset function thru the SyncThru page.

    The firmware must have really messed up something. If there were some way to clear all the firmware settings like maybe reloading the firmware, it might bring the printer back to life. I see no firmware updates on the Samsung site to try. I do see on ebay, some patched firmware that can be installed thru the USB connection.

    • Laurence Marks

      My CLP-315 came with a CD which installs the driver, the User Guide, and three programs:
      –Samsung Printing Solution
      –Smart Panel

      I would try running each of these programs to see if they will properly reset your printer.

  • casey

    Many thanks for this great hack! I was able to reset pg counts on my 2 CLP-315W printers.

    FYI – I got the CLP-315W Mac Address: 000000000000 issue on one of the printers and fixed it by running the pg count reset hack a second time and making sure .

    I’m thinking perhaps grounding the pin too long or short, or not getting a full restart after off/on, might have caused it. I’d confirm it, but I really don’t want to reproduce the issue for a good test.

  • casey

    Oops – 2nd section of my prev . post should read:

    I got the CLP-315W Mac Address: 000000000000 issue on one of the printers and fixed it by running the pg count reset hack a second time: making sure the printer came back on all the way with no issues (make sure paper tray not empty, etc) and then printing a config report (which showed my Mac address had come back).

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  • Ben

    Hey and thanks for your idea to post the hack.
    I have an CLP-315 without wireless and Ethernetport.
    Firmwareinformation is V. Sep-17-2008, SPL-C 5.35 11-20.2007, Engine Version 1.77.74.T.

    I have soldered a wire to pin 1 as described. Wire is grounded before powering on. Initialization is running and after printing the demo page and the configuration page i have one page printed. LED is green and i can print from windows. The Problem is after powercycling the printer turns back to red led. In Detail i switch on power, then LED blinks orange then for a few seconds there is no light followed by two orange led`s the the printer turns to red led and nothing happens anymore. If i repead the hack i can print until powercycling.

    • Laurence Marks

      Did you remember to tape over all three contacts on each of the four cartridges?

    • Laurence Marks

      Ummm, SDA is pin 5, not pin 1.

  • Ben

    I´ve took the one at the left side at the top (right site of the chip is in the the direction of the power chord, left site is direction to the cartridges. Is that 5? I have the original cartridges without chip.

    • Laurence Marks

      Looks like you got the right one. Even if they are original cartridges, if they each have three metallic contacts on the edge facing the door, the contacts should be covered with tape.

  • Ben

    to GND – | |-
    – | |-
    – | |-
    – |——–|-

  • Ben

    Hy, there are no contacts. Just blank plastic.

  • Ben

    Is it dangerous to leave the lit permanent wired to the ground?
    Power on needs a bit longer because of the initialisation but that doesnt matter to me. And i have no network ports oder settings that have to be saved. But im a bit concerned the permanent ground will kill the chip?

    • Chris

      You should only ground the chip long enough to clear the page counts. I don’t don’t know that permanently grounding it would do any damage…I know on my network version you have to un-ground it to get it to reboot normally, but I am unsure about this on the USB-only version.

    • Laurence Marks

      No, not dangerous. See the description of SDA on page 8 of the chip specification here:

      An open-drain output with pullup resistor delivers no current when grounded. Current flows through the pullup resistor which is as intended.

      • Ben

        Thank you so mutch. I have soldered the PIN permanently to GROUND an it works fine. I have tried it now for several weeks.

  • stan

    CLp 315 hack did not work for hoping to get a reset on the imager. I get eh long boot time but then the light just stays on and will not start flashing or print a test page when pressed
    reboot and I get all the old numbers same result when I taped the cartridge pins

    Any ideas super printer a 7% left on imager willit just die when this is used up ?

  • Brian Messing

    This was great – I’m impressed with your geekiness! I have the 315W so as others mentioned, the chip is located in a slightly different area on the board, but still the same orientation. I grounded the pin until a few seconds after the printer started to mechanically move and let it finish booting. I long ago got rid of the original cartridges. So before I grounded the chip I simply placed tape over all 16 of the contacts on the cartridges, not expecting it to be as easy as that, but it was. So regardless of what is in the cartridges or if they are new or not, simply cover all the contacts. Worked like a champ.

    In my particular case, I upgraded Mac OS several years ago and ever since the printing function is flaky – a known problem that seems to have no solution. It THINKs it is printing (watch the status print 48%-80%-100% of the job … but it doesn’t. I typically try to print something 3 times and finally turn the printer off and on and then can print a job or two before having to do it again. Each time it “prints” the counters go up, so if I tried to print a 100 page doc in color, I might have “printed” 400 or so pages before I actually have the physical doc in my hand, so I was throwing away something like 80% of a cartridge! Fortunately I haven’t recycled the last 5-6 cartridges, so when these actually run out, I’m putting the old ones back in! I’m very grateful to you.

    • Laurence Marks

      Brian Messing wrote: “In my particular case, I upgraded Mac OS several years ago and ever since the printing function is flaky – a known problem that seems to have no solution.”

      I’m a Windows (and OS/2) guy, but your post impelled me to take a look. There are new Mac (2012) drivers and Smart Panel drivers for this printer at

      Have you tried them?

      Also see my comments above about tickling the chip with a wire vs. installing a button so you can repeat this reset without taking the covers off again.

  • Andy B

    Wow, this worked on my CLP 315. I don’t have any soldering experience so I actually just held a bit of wire in place and it worked (steady hands needed!),

    • Laurence Marks

      Andy, each time the counters reach the threshold you will need to do this again. You may wish to find a friend who can solder and help you install a switch, so you don’t have to keep removing covers.

  • Andy B

    Thanks Laurence – might get hold of a soldering iron and give it a go. I must add that I have been using this printer for few years now and was using the cheaper compatible replacement toners. I was over the ‘toner exhausted’ messages, when I knew there was toner left.

    When I applied the hack 2 of the toners were currently displaying ‘toner exhausted’.

    I covered the toner chips with electrical tape before applying the hack and all works fine.


  • Christopher

    Very informative post. This is not really to do with resetting the chip for the toner count but since you seem quite knowledgeable about such things I thought I would ask here.

    I have an error code coming up on my CLP-320N Samsung and according to the error code printout (found here: ) it is this: ‘Abnormal ADC has occurred.
    ZeroCross Signal detect error has occurred. ‘ Can you tell me what this means?

    Also the fix according to the same source is:
    Is the thermistor resistance value in 300~450Kohm?
    Yes : Replace the thermistor.
    No : Replace the fuser unit.
    If the problem persists after replacing the fuser unit, replace the SMPS board or Main board.

    Is the thermistor the thick white wires that go to bare connectors on the bottom of the fuser unit?

    What happened was that a page which was printing (all Cyan in color – just refilled with toner and printing out a test page) got wrapped around the fuser. When taking the fuser unit out to get at the paper I had to unscrew two screws that loosened the fuser unit so that it was not tight against the hard roller. I actually ended up opening the enclosure completely. Upon further inspection the (other) soft rubber roller was wrinkled even though the unit had done less than 1,000 copies (bought last year). Is this normal? Have I been sold a defective unit? Thanking you in advance.

  • Christopher

    I forgot to mention that the error code was:

    Fuser unit failure #U1-2112 Please turn off then on

  • Jakob

    On my clp-310 worked just FINE!
    Thanks for the HACK!

  • Roy Bayliss

    Tried the hack on my CLP315w – not sure if its worked or not – it seemed to work in that it took about a minute longer to boot up and reset the network settings.
    I put in the initial toner cartridges before doing the hack and managed to print the config/test pages etc. immediately after.
    On Sync Thru Web Service following is listed:
    Billing information: Page counts read -1/-1/-1/-1 for the toner cartridges.
    Supply Status: Remain Toner reads 0% for each cartridge and ‘invalid toner cartridge’ for black and ‘toner exhausted’ for the other three is also displayed.
    So it looks to me like it may have reset the page counts, but the cartridges are still flagged as being exhausted.
    Any ideas? I’m considering buying a new set of cartridges or might get a new printer as I begrudge giving samsung any more money – it’s a disgrace how they’ve tried to lock this down, such a waste. So any suggestions/ideas would be gratefully received.

    • Chris

      Did you remember to print off a couple pages before the next power down? In order to get all the page counts reset, you need to print a couple pages to advance the counts up to 1. Otherwise, they revert back after you power cycle. Also, make sure you have put tape over the chips on the back of each toner cartridge…otherwise the toner cartridge will tell the printer what its page count is…and you don’t want that to happen. Did you watch my YouTube video specific to the CLP-315w?

      • Roy Bayliss

        Hi Chris, thanks for the quick response. Firstly I’ve followed your excellent youtube video which brought me to this website.
        After some fiddling I’ve managed to get to the following:
        >Note all four toner cartridges are the initial ones.
        Power on with the 5th pin earthed
        When the motor starts up remove the earth
        >at this point red light is on and all four toners have solid red lights
        Open and close front cover
        >all red lights now off, and green light displayed – looks as it should with no warnings.
        Access the Syncthru web service page
        >All page counts are -1 (billing counters). Toner cartridges display 0% remaining and invalid above the black (Supply Status Tab).
        Print off 4 pages from print information page (Print Information Tab)
        >Nothing happens. If I print from this tab at the point before I open and close the door it prints the pages fine and the count for the Total page counts go up to 1/1 while the toner image counts remain at -1
        If I open and close the door again, it resets the error lights to all red.
        So it’s at this point that I’m stuck. I’m working away from home a lot at the moment, so there may be delays in me responding, but please bear with me, I really appreciate your help with this and will get back with feedback as soon as I can.

        • Roy Bayliss

          Quick update, I’ve now managed to get to the following :
          >Under Toner Cartridge Identification, all cartridges show Vendor ID of unidentified and and serial number of 16 squares rotated by 45 degrees with a question mark in each.
          >Status of all cartridges is Ready, with 0% toner remaining
          >All page counts are set to 0

          I’m not sure if the vendor id and serial number values are as expected, but looking at the rest I think all I need to do now is print off a couple of pages from the Print Information Tab. Only problem is, when I hit the print buttons, nothing happens. Holding the Orange button down on the printer for 10, 15, 20, 30 seconds does nothing either. Yet when I try to print without doing the reset, the pages print OK from the Print Information Tab? Any ideas?

  • M

    Hi Brain, How are you? Can I ask what is the part number on the EEPROM chip you have in your picture

    I am trying to match it with my CLX-3185FW to do the hack.



    • Brian

      Certainly. The EEPROM in my 315 is a ST M24C64.

      I’ve never tried the hack on your model of printer, so you are in uncharted territory. (c: Good luck!

  • David

    Wow! This totally works. And I was able to do it by myself and I’m a complete novice at this stuff. I didn’t want to have to take the printer apart again, so I pulled a switch out of a cheap solar lamp and soldered that in. It’s a hard on/off switch so I don’t have to hold it. I printed a config report and sure enough… page counts are zero. Thanks, man! You’re brilliant.

    • Brian

      Always happy to hear a success story. Thanks! (c:

  • Federico

    I have an samsung CLP-660n
    is it possible to do this?

    • Laurence Marks

      Federico wrote “I have an samsung CLP-660n
      is it possible to do this?”

      Probably not. This trick takes advantage of a quirk in the firmware of the CLP-310 series (CLP-315) and its cousin, the CLX-3170 series (CLX-3175 printer/scanner/fax/copier). It’s not likely that the same quirk is present in the CLP-660n. You won’t hurt anything trying, though.

  • tariq

    Hi the genius hi-tech people..
    I the novice at all being talked about have been reading this thread with interest. Can any one tell me that will this work for CLX3305w. and will the imaging unit count also be set to zero. At present my printer is not printing with message “Replace Imaging Unit” and when I try to do direct copying it gives message “Not available try again later”
    Thanks in anticipation.

  • Nick Deano

    I have a 315W and wanted to add one more affirmation that if your cartridges have the contacts you must first tape them over and then perform the hack by grounding the pin on start up as the video shows, Hooray!!!

  • DS

    Hy, can you do a hack for a Samsung CLX 2160, I’m kinda a noob to this, but I have looked for years for something to hack it. I’m begging you to help me if you can, please.
    Thank you for your time spent for my request.

  • JCMegabyte

    I successfully brought a CLP300 with an “invalid imaging unit” (expired drum) error message back to life by removing the ATMEL 24C64A EEPROM chip, which is conveniently mounted in an 8-pin DIP socket on the upper right of the motherboard. Upon power-up after removing the chip, all the lights go on and off a couple of times and then it goes dark. After20-30 seconds of darkness, the status light goes green and the toner lights flash in sequence several times, during which time I held the STOP button until the green status light started flashing (after which I released the STOP button) and a test page printed. After that, The status light stayed green and everything looked right – I could print normally.

    It took a number of power-down/power-up cycles after removing the chip (and trying different things during power-up) before I got this far, so I don’t know if the test page print procedure during the power-up cycle is needed each time, or if after a number of power-ups it just re-learns everything and stabilizes. The EEPROM chip is still removed and I haven’t tried rebooting it yet (got lots of printing to do before I risk it!) but I will continue to mess with it and post the results when the critical print jobs are out of the way… =)

    Thanks to all for all the great posts and info – we saved a ton of money and headaches!

    • JCMegabyte

      As a follow-up, it seems that the test page procedure IS necessary upon every power-up after removing the EEPROM chip from the CLP300, so here is the full procedure:

      1. Remove the ATMEL24C64A EEPROM chip from the socket and leave it out for good.

      2. Subsequently each time you power-on the printer…

      3. All the LEDs flash twice then go dark for 30 seconds or so.

      4. The green status light comes on (press and hold the STOP button NOW) while the toner lights flash in sequence several times.

      5. The status light begins flashing green and the printer winds up to print the test page (you can release the STOP button now).

      6. After the test page is done, the printer runs for a while, then stops. The status light remains green and the printer is ready to print normally.

      Hope this helps everyone with a Samsung CLP300!

      • Grind

        This works perfectly. I had chipped cartridges and I taped them out first. Thank you so very much.

  • Carol Mercer

    I would like to know if this fix can be used on a Samsung CLX3175N.

    • Larry M

      YES IT CAN! I did this modification about two months ago and took a bunch of photographs. I’ll try to post instructions and photos in the next couple of days.

    • Larry M

      I was playing with the CLX-3175FW and found out some interesting things. I will post the hardware hack if you like but I believe I have found a much simpler way to reset the counts on the printer.

      First you need to bring up the secret, hidden technician menus.
      If your CLX-3175 does not have a numeric keypad:
      Enter “MENU” – “COPYID” – “LEFT” – “RIGHT” – “MENU” – “BACK”.

      If your CLX-3175 has a numeric keypad:
      Enter “MENU”, #1934, MENU

      The unit will switch to English (if it was in another language). The menu tree has now changed. When you press MENU, you will be offered TECH MENU (the default) and USER MENU (the same menus you always had). The key sequence above leaves you at the TECH MENU, but until you reboot you can get back there from the home state by simply pressing MENU.

      Here are the hidden resets:
      MENU–>TECH MENU–>DATA SETUP–>CLEAR COUNTS requests a four digit password. Enter 1934 and you will have options to reset individual counts for the TRANSFER BELT, ADF (automatic document feeder), IMAGING UNIT, FLT(whatever that is) and a couple of other things. Unfortunately, there are no options to clear the toner cartridge counts.

      MENU–>TECH MENU–>DATA SETUP–>CLEAR ALL MEMORY will probably clear the toner counts. I expect it will also mess up the wireless network options if you have them. Let the printer finish. If asked what country, be sure to answer correctly (needed for FAX to work correctly with your country’s system). Reboot. Reset the wireless network options by
      MENU–>NETWORK–>CUSTOM and enter SSID and WPA2 password.

      Two anomalies in the Samsung firmware:
      1) I’ve never been able to simply re-enter the network information after a memory clear. I always have to specifically clear the network information afterwards and then re-enter it.

      2) I’ve never been able to use the “WIZARD” to set up the network because it only permits uppercase letters to be used in the WPA2 key–mine includes lowercase. I always have to use “CUSTOM” and tediously enter the SSID manually instead of simply selecting it.

      Carol, please try the above sequence and let me know if it works for you. If so, it will save some manual labor. If not, I’ll post the hardware instructions promptly.


      • Larry M

        Oh, and I foolishly forgot to mention one thing. If your cartridges have four metal contacts on the front face (replacement cartridges have these), you must tape over the contacts so that no electrical conduction takes place, in order for this reset to work.

        • Larry M

          Also forgot to mention that if you have a CLX-3175 without the numeric keypad, you enter the Clear Counts password (1934) by using the LEFT and RIGHT keys for each digit. Press OK after each digit is entered.

      • Larry M

        I just ran a test on the CLX-3175. CLEAR ALL MEMORY does not clear the toner counts. You need to do the hardware modification. I’ll post it soon.

    • Larry M

      Okay, the pictures for the CLX-3175FW are posted here:

      Here are the steps to follow.
      1) Remove the four printer cartridges and set them on a sheet of newspaper. (We’re going to turn the printer on its side, possibly not good for the cartridges.) Once the cartridges are removed, try to keep light from the OPC Imaging unit. Keep the front cover closed as much as possible and avoid bright light. Excessive light will damage the imaging unit.
      2) As shown in the pictures, use a sharp pencil and trace the outline of the cover hole onto the gray metal bracket behind it. Remove the screw which holds the right side cover on.
      3) Following the video shown here:
      remove the right side cover, the one he removes first. You don’t have to remove the others. You won’t do it in 30 seconds like he does. You have to stretch the cover a bit to remove it, and gently wiggle it to get the top latches free. Expect to fiddle for a few minutes.
      4) Turn the printer on its side (circuit card on top), place a rag over the circuit card and through the notch (see picture) to catch shavings. Then drill a hole, centered on the pencil outline you made, for the switch. I drilled a small, precisely centered hole and then re-drilled with successively larger bits until the switch fit. Remove the rag carefully to avoid dropping shavings into the printer. You may wish to use a magnet to remove shavings from the rag.
      5) Carefully solder two 6″ wires to the switch. I used 30 gauge (AWG) wire-wrapping wire. The fine wire gauge is desirable for connecting to the IC.
      6) Mount the switch in the bracket. I used a Radio Shack 275-1571 switch which required a 13/64″ hole in the bracket. It is desirable to use a switch with the least possible protrusion above the surface, since you have to stretch the cover over it when reassembling. If necessary, put a washer or two on the switch before placing it through the bracket to minimize protrusion.
      7) Locate the ST M24C64 IC. (See my pictures.) You will have to unplug one end of a couple of cables and push another one of the way. Strip about 1/8″ of insulation from one of the switch wires. Tin the lead .(Put a light coating of solder on it.) Form a hook on it. Hook it under the pin 1 (top right) IC lead. Pinch the hook closed. Using a fine-tipped soldering iron, solder the wire to the IC lead. You may wish to maintain LIGHT tension on the wire while soldering.
      8) The hardest part is done. Strip about 1/4″ of insulation from the other switch wire and form a hook in the wire, loosen a convenient PC board mounting screw, hook the wire around it, and re-tighten the screw.
      9) Replug all the cables and place the ones you moved back to their original locations.
      10) Turn the printer to the upright position. Put the cover back on. It takes patience. It’s the reverse of the disassembly video. Engage the top latches and spread the cover edges as you put the lower part in place. As the cover edge reaches the newly-installed switch, push the switch button in so you don’t have to stretch the cover over it. As you may have noticed in the video, the front and back covers are held in place by the two side covers. Be careful to avoid detaching a front or back cover while replacing the side cover.
      11) If the switch mounting nut is not completely exposed in the cover hole–that is, it was not centered in the hole and is now lifting the cover from the bracket, take a sharp utility knife or hobby knife and trim the cover plastic.
      12) Replace the cover screw.
      13) P;ace a strip of vinyl electrical tape across all four contacts on each of the four printer cartridges and re-install them. Close the cover.
      This completes the hardware modification.

      How to use this newly added feature.

      Hold down the new switch and turn the printer on. When the printer ceases to make noise, flash LEDs, and update the LCD display, release the new switch. When action stops, turn the printer off, then on again. You will probably see UPDATING DATA on the LCD display again. If you get a message about the MAC address being zeros, you may have to turn it off and on again.

      If you issue the command
      Menu–>System Setup–>Report–>Supplies Info, a sheet will be printed stating that all four cartridges have had zero pages printed and 100% toner available. You’re done–unless you have the wireless feature (CLX-3175FW).

      The wireless setup will look correct but it won’t work. It’s easy to reset. First, issue
      Menu–>System Setup–>Clear Settings–>Network. Setup
      Then issue:
      Menu–>Network–>Wireless–>Custom, and re-enter the SSID and WPA2-PSK shared key.

      • Evert

        Cool, thanks for the clear explanation.

      • Brian

        Excellent. Thanks for sharing, sir!

  • Andrew Blackmore

    Does this hack also work for Samsung 320N/XSA ? And the 325/ XSA? And does it also re-set the counter of the fuser unit?
    ‘Cos I’ve managed to accumulate 3 of these printers and now all of them show only red on the ‘status’ LED!
    Help please?

  • Andrew Blackmore

    And now it’s apparently all three of the imaging units that aren’t happy with life!
    But those units were still printing cleanly up till now, so also “just” to be reset …?

  • Larry M

    Uhhh, Andrew, why don’t you come back to the forum and search (Use Ctrl-F in your browser) for 320. I think you will find the hits most informative.

  • Steve

    Hi All,
    Just got through reading all the comments, took about 3 hrs.
    Anyway, I have a clp-315w that I thought needed cartridges because it wouldn’t print. I bought some and it didn’t work.

    I did the hack and I got it to reset the counts but I still get a red status light. When the printer starts it just clicks and the motor never runs, it jumps a little but doesn’t spin. I even took the motor out and tried booting it up but the same result.
    Does anybody have a clue what this could be?
    I checked everything I could.
    It seems I had this problem before I bought the new toner carts but didn’t know it. The Smart Panel isn’t so smart if you know what I mean. All it says is Error: Restart machine.

  • Steve

    I fixed the problem and here is a video to show you how I did it.
    System Error: Cycle Power is the error in Smart Panel, here is the video showing what to do and it cost nothing.

    • Larry M


      Wonderful post. I haven’t had this problem yet, but it’s great to be prepared for it.

  • Cindy

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    It can go viral if you give it initial boost, i know very useful tool that can help you, simply type in google: svetsern traffic tips

  • m88

    It is not my first time to pay a visit this site, i am
    browsing this website dailly and obtain good facts from here everyday.

  • genie

    Does anyone know how to find the CHIP that has the firmware on it for these samsung printers?

    I want to back my firmware up before I mess with it.
    I would like to do similar mods as the author on newer samsung printers

    • Larry M

      According to the Service Manual, the CPU is a proprietary SoC (System-on-Chip) on the main board (which Samsung calls a PBA–Printed Board Assembly). It connects to an 8MB FLASH for read/write storage. That probably contains program memory. The Service Manual for the CLX-3175 manual shows it as one of those long, skinny TSOP ICs with leads only at the ends, just to the right of the SoC.

      Other SoC connections include I2C serial buses to two 24C64s, parallel connection to 64MB of DDR SDRAM, a Broadcom BCM5241 PHY, two USB connections (slave and OTG), A3983 Motor Driver, and HT82V26 Analog Front End (AFE) which connects to the CISM.

      The CLP-310/315 looks the same. The processor is in a big BGA which has Samsung and ARM logos. Just to the right of it is the FLASH in a TSOP package.

      • genie

        I think these samsung printers are putting the flash on the SPI chip and not the TSOP chip according to what I have read on this site and a few others.

        • Larry M

          There are several small (24C64) flash chips connected via I2C. That’s not SPI, but it’s similar. There are two I2C buses. One connects to a flash chip on the system board (and possibly to others). This one contains image counts for the imaging unit (OPC), fuser, transfer belt (ITB), and for the original chipless toner cartridges shipped from the factory. It also contains some other information about each cartridge, such as how dense to print.

          The other I2C bus connects to (at least) the four cartridges which have FLASH chips on them to maintain counts and density settings. (I believe that when you get commercially-refilled cartridges, they may adjust this setting to compensate for the aging of the cartridge.)

          These are slow, serial, small-capacity memories. It doesn’t make sense that they would store program code in them. There wouldn’t even be enough room to store the TCP/IP code for the ethernet. And they would have to copy the code to the DDR RAM for execution at every boot and they would need a boot flash somewhere to do that.

          It makes much more sense that program code would be stored in the big TSOP package.

  • indian mms

    Hey there! I’ve been reading your blog for
    a long time now and finally got the bravery to go ahead and
    give you a shout out from Humble Texas!
    Just wanted to tell you keep up the good work!

  • simon ambrose

    i love this site! and all the mods therein! gonna have a hack later on with my 3175 fw! which incidentally has lost the ability to wifi so i reckon im gonna pick up another for spares! i think the wifi module has gone down as it now detects no networks at all! be interested to hear if anyone else hears of this!

    also – following this mod, is there an issue with power save? ie does the printer stay hot like others have mentioned? i would be interested to know.


    • Larry M

      Hmm. Maybe do a reset and reconfiguration on the WiFi to see if it starts working. After doing the mod and reset I described above, the WiFi appeared to be configured properly but didn’t work. I had to go through the menus and reset the WiFi back to factory defaults and then reconfigure it to my network to restore function.

      I haven’t observed an issue with Power Save, but I do recall that if you go to the Tech Menu functions, you can adjust the Power Save settings.

  • sloughi

    Hi !

    Like Plinio
    I disconnected the mass JUST TURNED ON THE GREEN LIGHT and , great !!
    Yellow, magenta, cyan and black, all at 100%.
    My laser is a CLP315 with schips cartriges TAPED.
    Thanks All.

  • http://iconfirmthehackcanworkinclp-320 leady

    i am sure that the hack can work in clp-320,just some difference,attention:
    1.the chip is in a different place,closer to the right .
    2.after you ground pin 5 and power the printer, you will find the warn light and 4 toner lights are on,and “the button” can’t work
    3.@Ross said “open then close the rear door “”put the printer out of “red led mode” and back into ready mode”,but it no use to my 320
    4.then you need a computer (driver had been install,ps.not universal driver),connect to the printer, “smart panel”->select proper printer->”printer setup”->”information”->”print configure report”
    6.OK.counts write back to could power off then power on the printer,count of image unit is 1

    • Alexander

      Hi leady,

      Thanks for your comment – sits (after several hours of reading, watching vids and wiggeling with plastic printer parts), in front of a splitted CLP-320, ver. (LF) and wonder – — will I proceed and wire it up according to the hack and pray…OR can you confirm that it worked with your CLP-320..I sense a bit of a questionmark in your otherwise great comment!

      Looking forward to your answer.

      • Alexander

        …Anyhow, went for the ‘320.rar’-solution…and as above; Works like a charm, yes download, unzip, run bat, …wait 2 minutes. Done!!

        Thanks for good inspiration today!!

        Will be back.

  • leady

    Now,I confirm the hack can work in all clp-315, clp-320 and clp-325 and all you need is only a slim copper wire.
    i have post the method above,pls attent some emphasis:
    1.install the drivers of CD (not universal drivers) on computer,smart panel is nessary.
    2.the chip is 24C64,look for careful. 5 is the upper-right of the chip in clp-320 and clp-325
    4.after you ground pin 5 and power the printer,on computer you will find a new printer (same type),pls swich to the new
    5.After print configure report (smart panel) ,power off and power on the printer ,the count of the image unit (and other unit) is reset.
    That’s all!

    • Ben

      I have a CLP325 (USB only) printer. I have followed your guide but now I’m getting just blank pages from the printer itself, I cannot print something anymore.
      That’s what I’ve done:
      – Found chip 24C64, on pin5 I have connected a switch on one side and ground on the other end
      – put some black tape in front of the cartridges chip to cover all the 4
      – Pressed the ground switch, connected the power line and pressed the power button
      – the the button pressed the printer never stops its diagnostic routine, after 5 mins I finally released my switch
      – I have tried to print a test page by pressing the red button in front of the printer (near the power button). Now I’m getting two totally blank pages without anything on it
      – Connected the printer to the USB port and attached a Win PC with Samsung Drivers (not universal driver, stock ones), from the printer panel I still see I have 4 empty cartridges and nothing more

      I’m pretty sure there’s a lot of ink in them.
      I have also tried to replace one of these colors (black) with another compatible brand new cartridge but I cannot still ink levels (still 0%) and nothing more.
      Do you have any hints on them ? Now I just see blank pages and nothing more


      • Brian

        Hey Ben,

        Sorry to hear you are having trouble. Unfortunately, I don’t have the 325 and I’ve never seen the blank page symptom you are describing on my 315. I’m afraid I don’t have any experience to draw on to help you. MTFBWU, sir. Hope you’re able to get it worked out!


        • Ben

          Back again,
          I think I have found the problem… now I have two news:
          The bad one is related to the printer, don’t know if my analysis is correct but I guess I have a new broken printer due to my experiments. I have left the printer opened for a while and in many forums I have found information (bad info) about exposing printer internals to the light, probably blank pages are related to it, probably I have damaged the belt or the drum, it seems I cannot keep those exposed to the sunlight for more than just a couple of minutes. If someone has an idea let me know, I’d like to recover the printer if this is not the problem.

          The good news is probably related to what Leady wrote as well as other info in this forum. (see my recap in the previous post) From Samsung Smart Panel it seems that now my drum has printed just few copies. Mission completed successfully but patient is dead :)

          • Laurence Marks


            I posted a few days ago but it seems not to have arrived.

            Part of the drum (organic photoconductor-OPC) would have been sheltered from light by the mechanism. Thus part of the page image would print correctly and the remainder would likely be all black, not all white.

            The transfer belt is not sensitive to light.

            It is much more likely that you dislodged something or failed to reconnect something. For example, when you re-installed the transfer belt did you remember to carefully plug that little white four-position connector in firmly?

  • sylvain

    I read almost all of you messages and the initial post, thanks for all this informations ! As owner of a CLP-325 (reported CLP-320 series), I tried to reset those counter by grounding the fifth pin of the 24C64, but it fails for me. Here is what i did :
    1) unplug the printer
    2)ground the fifth ping
    3) plug the printer an press the power button
    It never stops it initial test sequence, looping.
    4) stop grounding the fifth pin (did it several times, waiting for 30sec to about 6minutes)
    5) press 6 sec the red button to get the information report printed
    6) reboot the printer (tried softly) trough the power button, or hardly by unplugging the printer
    No counter reset…
    My Firmware/engine Version is reported as “V1.20.01.36 Mar-02-2011 1.00.31”
    Ben, Leady, may i ask you your firmware version ? Does someone know if it could be downgraded ?
    I think It may be safer/more simple to reset the chips on the cartridges, i’ll try that, 3 of mine have the chip.

    • Laurence Marks


      Brian and I have had some offline discussions on this. The chips on the cartridges are I2C chips; the four connectors are Vcc, Ground, SCL, and SDA. It should be straight forward to build a fixture to hold the cartridge and read/write the chip from either a USB port or (easier) from an old-style printer port.

      Here’s how I would go about it:
      1) Read and save the info from each cartridge.
      2) Read and save the info from a new cartridge.
      3) Write the data from the new cartridge into an exhausted cartridge and refill it.

      Be sure to do this separately for each cartridge or the printer may halt and insist you’ve installed, e.g., a cyan cartridge in the yellow slot because you wrote the wrong data to it.

      As a more interesting example, a Samsung manual you might find identifies the parameters stored in the chip. One is an efficiency parameter–when a cartridge is professionally refilled and the chip is re-written, they adjust this parameter to compensate for wear on the cartridge. I have a CLP-315 and I’ve never had to make adjustments, but it would be interesting to read the chips from freshly refilled cartridges and see what adjustments are made…and maybe make the same adjustments on cartridges we fill ourselves.

      • Ben

        I also have a CLP-315, the 325 is gone but I have applied the same steps to the 315 and it works fine. In this 315 I was previously using chipped cartridges. Before operating the hack I have applied some black tape to these 4 cartridges. After the boot you have to wait for a while before it stops, after all you’ll see a red led due to the cartridges error (I think because the printer knew it was using chipped ones before…). After this error I have opened the front door and then closed it, printed the two pages and the reset went fine. Now after this reset I’m still using these cartridges but with the black tape on, it’s just like having default cartridges, I’m quite happy because the next time I can recharge them manually, no chips, no frames and I just need the powder, really nice :)

        • Laurence Marks

          Have you checked the 325 to make sure it’s not something simple like forgetting to plug in the transfer belt?

          • Ben

            Checked twice but I’m getting the same result.
            I guess it’s just a noob error, I have left the drum and the transfer belt outside the printer for a while, even if there weren’t out under direct sun there’s something wrong in leaving them outside for more than just few hours..

          • Laurence Marks


            Having made the error of leaving an OPC (drum) in the sunlight (back in about 1998), I can tell you with certainty that completely blank pages is not the result. The exposed part of the drum prints pages that are a mottled black. The part which is shadowed continues to work fine.

            The technical detail is that:
            –The drum is charged (given an electrical charge
            –The laser writes on the drum, discharging white areas where no toner should adhere
            –The drum rotates near the cartridges and toner is attracted to the areas that weren’t discharged.
            –In a black-and-white printer, the paper is charged to a higher level and placed in contact with the drum so the toner transfers to it.
            –In a color printer, the transfer belt is charged to a higher level and the toner is transferred to it. Then the paper is charged to a higher level level and the toner transfers to it from the transfer belt. This is so that all four colors can be aggregated on the transfer belt and transferred at once to the paper.
            –In either case, the paper is then transferred to the fuser rollers which melt the toner into the paper.
            –This is a simplified description. There are surely variations in the schemes used. It’s possible that in the Samsung case an exposed drum would print white instead of black, but again, only in the exposed portions.

            Did you have to unplug cables in the 325 to get to the NVRAM chip? Did you possibly forget to plug one back in? Maybe have one partially plugged in, or off by one pin? Expose the area you worked in and take a close look.

          • Ben

            I’ll check it

  • Laurence Marks


    I was so focused on discussing normal operation that I failed to explain what happens when the OPC is overexposed to light. It looses its sensitivity to light and no longer is discharged by the laser (some printers use an array of LEDs). Thus the toner adheres to the parts that were supposed to be white as well as the black/colored parts and a black page results.

  • OzmoOzmo

    Have a CLP-320 and bought a refil kit and chips on internet – came with no Yellow and two Magenta chips instead… grr…

    So looking for options without having wait weeks postage-

    1) Could someone please post up “320.rar” if it exists – the servers above are long gone.

    2) I tried the Ground Pin 5 , after one reset cycle – hold the Triangle button to stop the reset – then open close back door- and I got to a stage where it was printing blank 2 pages.
    I didnt go on to the PC print status as I was afraid of bricking the printer like Ben.
    Resetting the printer didn’t work – kept printing blanks – but a power cycle and printer was back to its empty ink but working state.
    Has it confirmed ok for anyone before I do it?

    3) Otherwise I might have a go reading the ebay chips I have and try reprogram one M to Y – it just a one character edit yes?


  • Laurence Marks


    Someplace on the internet–I can’t remember where–is a Samsung document which describes the chip data layout. If you can’t find it, respond and I’ll look for it when I return home in a few days.

    • OzmoOzmo

      >..Samsung document which describes the chip data layout. If you can’t find it, respond and I’ll look for it when I return home in a few days.

      Thanks, that would be great – I have tried reading the incorrect chip using a 24c02 reader – but no joy. Do I have the connections correct?


      How did you guys read/write the hex from the chip on the cartridge?

      I have Arduinos here that I can use as a reader if anyone has any idea of the pinputs or the protocol.


      • Laurence Marks

        Ozmo, we are pretty sure that the chips are I2C (I-squared-C) with four contacts: Vcc, Gnd, SCL, and SDA, because the Samsung document shows that the Samsung SoC has two I2C ports and data for the internal NVRAM didn’t seem to be on the same bus as the cartridges. We never determined which contact was which but it should be easy. Tack-solder four numbered leads to one of the cartridges. Turn on the printer and wait for boot to complete. Determine which two are Vcc and Gnd with a voltmeter. Use an oscilloscope or logic analyzer on the other two. SCL will be the one that always has eight one-unit-wide pulses. SDA will have some wider pulses.

        Let us know what you find. I wanted to build a fixture to hold a cartridge and read/write it by bit-banging an old-style parallel port but haven’t gotten to it.

        • OzmoOzmo

          So… – I managed to get data out of the CLP-320 Printer cartridge chips (using an arduino).

          ..and this is what I found.

          * Each cart chip is an I2C device – but its not totally compatible with a 24C02 eeprom – eg. I cannot do a random read and my eeprom reader failed to read it- all reads start at address 0.
          There are markings on 2 chips – listed below.

          *Connection is as I guessed: Gnd-SCL-VCC-SDA and it seems to be a 5V device (wont work at 3.3v)

          *There are no externally hard-wired address selector on the circuit board the chip is on but each colour has a different I2C address – so the ID is set in software on the chip – as well as being the second character when you read the chip.

          So I cannot see yet how the device id can be changed – and the 24c02 methods to write to the chip are being ignored – so could be write protected also?

          * Of the first 32 bytes -all except one char was ascii. Everything after that was FF.

          Here are the Chip IDs – and the contents.

          I'm missing this chip - but guess it would be ID 41 (0x29)

          (Magenta) Chip marked "mck01g2"
          I2C scanner found address: 42 (0x2A)
          C M 3 2 0 E X P S A M S U N G (FF)
          C R U M - 1 4 0 7 0 0 1 0 1 4 2
          (FF) (FF) (FF) (FF) (FF) (FF) (FF) (FF) (FF) (FF) .....

          (Blue) Chip marked "mck15g2"
          I2C scanner found address: 43 (0x2B)
          C C 3 2 0 E U R S A M S U N G (FF)
          C R U M - 1 4 0 7 0 0 2 6 8 0 4
          (FF) (FF) (FF) (FF) (FF) (FF) (FF) (FF) (FF) (FF) .....

          I2C scanner found address: 44 (0x2C)
          C K 3 2 0 E U R S A M S U N G (FF)
          C R U M - 1 4 0 7 0 0 2 6 6 7 9
          (FF) (FF) (FF) (FF) (FF) (FF) (FF) (FF) (FF) (FF) .....

          • OzmoOzmo

            Oh – just a quick comment – those are the first 32 bytes – but there was an issue with a hardcoded limit in the arduino wire.h libraries that prevented the rest of the chip downloading – It is not all FF after the text above – Im seeing now lots more binary data after that now…

          • Laurence Marks

            Ozmo, look for
            In this manual, the cartridge chips are referred to as CRUM–Customer Replaceable Unit Monitor.

            –Pages 2-20, 2-21, 2-25, 2-30 in the Product Specification PDF.
            –Page 5-10 in the Block Diagram pdf. (It’s specified as 3.3v and even the pinout is shown.)

            I was sure I had seen a complete layout of the CRUMs, but was mistaken.

            By the way, I can’t help but observe that:
            The second byte is the color (C, M, Y, K) and the sixth, seventh, and eighth are the locale (Export or Europe in your case, mine may be USA).

            If you have access to a new cartridge and a professionally refilled cartridge, it would be interesting to dump them before use and after printing a few images, although you could just write the new data image back to the cartridge when it declares itself exhausted. I think I’d like to learn which locations are altered to indicate a cartridge has been refilled.

            Be sure to let me know how this comes out. Although I’ve modified both my printers as described by Brian, I might make a fixture and write some bit-banging software to restore cartridges.

  • http://n/a Fredo

    Hello everyone, I’ve just spent another couple of hours or so reading up this page as I’d done so a few days back and wow is there so much info! I’m also glad this is still active because I have plans to do this to both my CLP-315 and CLP-320N.
    Thank you all for digging, testing and sharing!

    This post is about the 315 and is extremely well documented which gives me enough courage to attempt it but I’m little afraid to do it on the 320, I was just wondering if anyone with a 320N can confirm this works by sharing their procedure, tips/warnings.. etc?

    Thanks again!
    Will post back results and pics 😀

  • OzmoOzmo

    My CLP-320 printer is now not working :( so thats the end of that.

    Just guessing – but I think it was the grounding the SDA that messed up the eeprom – I dont think this trick is a good idea for this printer model.

    It reports No errors – but prints blank pages always – test prints and prints from pc are just a warm blank page.

    ink carts are the original ones with no chip in them – there is still 20% black and other colours- just the yellow is out.

    Its not a cable dislodged or light exposed drum -as nothing other than the side cover had been removed.

    I tried flashing an older rom to it (FIRMWARE = 0011 “V1.00.01.43 Nov-09-2011”) down from original (V1.20.01.34) – in the hope it would reset the printer eeprom – flash was successful – but it still shoots blanks :/

    I hear there is a Samsung internal program called EDC.exe that can reset certain internal settings if I can find it – that might be the next step – unless anyone has any other ideas….

    • oz5es Ebbe

      Have You got an email adress capable of holding aprox. 250 kB ?
      Best regards Ebbe
      ps. replace MYNAME with my name

      • OzmoOzmo

        Thanks – but EBC didnt help much just yet.

        It allows you to test all the motors and the read all sensors etc- there is some voltage duty stuff that was set to 5% when the service manual mentioned 50% – but any changes dont seem to presist after a reboot.

        Printer thinks its printing – but all blank – tried different pcs.
        Pretty sure its E2P issue as it started printing blanks immediately after doing the SDA reset, open front back doors thing – a reboot fixed it and was printing reports again correctly.
        Reassembled and printed a demo page from the PC – it and everything after that came out blank again.

        this page seems to mention the e2p I need – but the links are dead :(


        • oz5es Ebbe

          Sorry to hear that. :-(
          I hope You find a solution eventually.

          Bets regards

    • Ben

      I guess we have followed the same steps. I had thought about a problem on my drum or something like that because I have really exposed it (as well as the belt) to sunlight. But the symptoms are nearly the same. Blank pages even if I have reflashed the printer and double checked wires and connections.

      • OzmoOzmo

        I fixed mine :) I posted a comment with all the links to the stuff I used but this site seems to have blocked it. Just in case the post I made never reappears – the problem is indeed the 24c64 chip needs re-flashing. It can be done without removing the chip or even taking the circuit-board from the printer.

        • Brian

          Sorry about that OzmoOzmo. I’ve been following your progress and didn’t even realize I was reading a spam release notification! (c: You should see your post now. Thanks for the heads up and for sharing your findings! -Brian

        • incircuitreader

          Wow, How did you figure out how to read the chip in-circuit?

          I have been looking for information to read some chips in circuit. Do you have any information to read a Nand or SOP SOIC chip in circuit.

          First time some one has posted how to read a chip in circuit before.

          • Laurence Marks

            How to read/write a chip in-circuit? Think about it–it’s not that hard. There are several pins you have to drive or read.

            Vcc: If you tried to drive it externally, you would have to back-drive the entire circuit board and power-supply. That’s not practical so you have to turn on the Unit Under Test (UUT).

            Gnd: Well, the chip’s already connected but you have to make the ground on your chip read/write adapter common to it.

            Chip Selects: In this case they are probably already wired directly to Gnd to make the chip active, but Ozmo tied them to Gnd (1-3 to 4) to make sure.

            SDA: This pin on the I2C bus is open-drain with a pullup resistor. Masters or slaves pull it low when reading or writing. No damage can occur when two components are both pulling it low, but data transfer can be corrupted. Ozmo waited until the initialize sequence was completed to make sure there would be no interference. This is the only pin that’s read or write. You have to drive SCL and Vcc.

            SCL: SCL is also an open-drain (or open-collector) circuit. See the specification at . Thus you can connect another driver to it without harming anything. In fact, the specification covers the multi-master case where more than one chip could provide clocks.

            You also asked “Do you have any information to read a Nand or SOP SOIC chip in circuit?” Just do the same kind of analysis. Instead of clips, you might have to tack-solder some flying leads (use AWG 30 wire-wrap wire) for connections. If it’s a direct chip attach (solder balls under the chip) you are probably out of luck.

          • incircuitreader

            Can you give me some pointers on a basic tsop nand read test in circuit?

            There are some control signals R/B WE WP ALE CLE RE CE and 8 data signals and one response signal r/b

            are you saying ground all the data signals, run UUT and connect the rest of the pins to pin

          • Laurence Marks

            Umm, NAND Flash is a LOT harder than these 2 or 3 or 4 wire serial memories. The bus is not open-drain, so you probably won’t be able to read or write it in situ.

            The spec is
            here. Accessing the memory requires a complex initialization dance to read its parameters, then send a string of commands to read a block or to disable write-protect and write a block.

          • incircuitreader

            I might try to use the smartmedia reader to read a nand in circuit

            Do you think this will work

            this is the site that did it


  • talkprinters

    I found a guy that sells reprogrammed printer mainboards and updates for most of these samsung printers. When you get the reprogramming done the toners stay full all the time and you can refill them them forever. Its Very nice. Very affordable printing now. Saved me the headache of figuring this out myself.

  • OzmoOzmo

    My bricked CLP-320 is working again :) \O/ yay!

    To recover my printer – I reprogrammed the 24c64 chip on the printer using what I had to hand.

    * Wasn’t hard once I sourced the e2p file – I chanced not removing the chip as soldering that would be a hassle – and it worked out ok.
    * Plus bonus – my ink and toner are all 100% again :)

    I just connected the following 4 wires from the 24c64 to the same pins on the programmer
    SDA(Pin5), SCL(Pin6), GND(Pin4) and GND(Pin1)

    also: I had the printer on and idle – so the VCC(8) was powered by the printer
    Pin 1,2&3 are all connected together so you just need ground one of them – important to do as it sets the chip to an address the programmer expects.

    What I used:

    PonyProg (64bit version from sourceforge) – to convert the .e2p file to a .bin file.

    This programmer (not expensive – there are a little cheaper – but its the one I have):
    XP VISTA WIN7 USB Port 24CXX EEPROM Programmer Reader Writer

    These Cheap Clips – they are small enough to grab the IC legs:
    12X SMD IC 6 Colors Test Hook Clip Grabbers Test Probe

    The e2p file from this Russian Site (use Chrome and it translates the site automatically): (use the lower link beside the paperclip – the topmost link is broken)

    This will change your printer serial number and the printer will install as a new printer – so you will likely want set it to be default printer.

    That site also hosts 320.rar – which is a firmware that keeps the toners counter at 100% if anyone is interested.


    • Laurence Marks

      Ozmo, that’s wonderful news.

      Incidentally I had been assuming that the CLP-310/315 cartridges are the same as those in the CLP-320. They are not. Cartridges for the 310/315 are:
      Cartridges for the CLP-320 are:

      • Ben

        I have had a CLP325 (now dismantled) and a working CLP315 (now hacked). After this hack I have covered chip’s cartridges with some black tape and I’m working without troubles. I have even tried to use my regenerated CLP325 cartridges on this CLP315, with the black tape on and they’re working.
        Mechanically the CLP325 cartridges are matching and when covered with the tape the printer (CLP315) doesn’t have troubles with them

        • Gary Davis

          It’s been a while since I have reviewed the messages here. Ben, it seems like I had the same experience as you and others. I did post about it in the above thread – search back for Gary Davis, Feb 1, 2014 for details.

          I have a broken CLP-325W and it now only prints blank pages. The other thing that is broken is the WiFi. Only USB works to connect to it.

          I did not see any CLP-325W files on the Russian site. Not sure if I will ever get the printer back working. It’s in the garage in a box now.


          • Ben

            My 325 was USB only but the behaviour is basically the same, just like you. I have applied the same exact procedure on my 315 and on my 325, one is working the other does not (double checked the chip before anything else). I’d like to warn others about it: don’t try to apply the same on the 325 series. Now I have dismantled it but at least I have recovered cartridges (they works fine on the 315) and I’ll try to do the same with the drum and other parts when it’ll be the case

  • OzmoOzmo

    Some fairly hard to find info I happened across – not that Ill not be using it – but I thought interesting reading all the same
    – how the chips in the ink carts work.

    Its another Russian site ( selling some hardware or other – but they have some great info freely available – including memory maps of all the major inks, the chips protected areas and even how to bypass it.

    The document of most interest is this one:

    Summary (for the CLP printers):

    So our CLP ink chips (CLT-407) are write once devices – they have a 16 bytes progress bar – (just like fuses that are blown as pages are used) – as well as a flag that gets blown when the cart is completely empty.

    Chips of this type (S3CC921 – S3CC912) cannot be reset – But.. its possible to mess up the progress bar and the “Toner Completely Exhausted” flag by filling in invalid numbers here before they are empty (page 23) and a memory hex dump of what they recommend to change is on page 33.

    Again – just for info only for the curious as there are easier workarounds posted above.

  • simon

    hey can someone help me on how to do it on samusung SCX 4623F please

    • Laurence Marks


      This “hack” takes advantage of a peculiar quirk in the firmware of particular Samsung models: CLP-310, CLP-315, CLX-3175, CLX-3178, and their variations with Wireless, Fax, or both.

      In those models, if the firmware cannot read the ROM statistics, it can be tricked into resetting the page counts for the original cartridges (not replacement ones). People have tried this on later Samsung models and the trick doesn’t work. A couple of people have reported that they “bricked” (permanently froze) their newer printers. I don’t know if they were able to recover them.

      Unless you know that the 4632F is very close to the CLP-310/CLX-3175 family, I would not encourage you to try this. Hint: You could check whether the 4632 uses the same cartridges, transfer belt, drum, toner recovery tank and other supplies as the CLP-310/315.

  • simon

    what about samsung SCX 4623F, can someone help please

  • Chris

    Hey, I’m the guy who posted the video about performing this hack on the CLP-315W a while back. I wanted to make it known that my 315w is now up for sale. I have an issue where I have ghosting of previous prints being printed on each page coming through it. I think this is a problem with either the drum or the transfer belt, though I purchased an installed a new transfer belt. I suppose it could also be an issue with a corona wire not discharging properly and leaving toner behind on the drum or belt. I decided not to put any more money into it as the wife wanted an MFP instead.

    So I am willing to sell this printer as a whole, or pull parts out of it to anyone who wants specific parts. It has plenty of good fans, motors, circuit boards, and so on.

    • Laurence Marks

      Chris, your most recent diagnosis is probably correct. Carbon toner particles are conductive. If too many gather around one of the corona wires, it can’t maintain the high potential needed to discharge the drum or transfer belt after each page. A really good vacuuming, coupled with selective use of a toothbrush and some cotton swabs could resolve your problem. (I’m sure you emptied the toner catch tank when you changed the transfer belt.)

      There is one corona wire below the drum that’s called the “Eraser” which is probably the culprit. Considering the effects of gravity on toner particles makes this an even more likely candidate. Don’t forget to clean wires and contacts associated with this electrode, too.

      There are two others: one that’s above the drum and appears to affect both the drum (Organic Photo Conductor or OPC) and the Image Transfer Belt (ITB), and another one that contacts the ITB and the paper. These seem less likely. If you have the somewhat difficult to find Service Manual, see EP Process, page 2-15.

    • George Hald

      Chris I had the same problem after not using my printer for a long time. The problem is on the blade of the transfer belt! Because it’s constantly touching the belt on an angle, it bents and keeps that shape, and stops cleaning right causing previous page to stay to the next as ghost! In case you still have yours you can try the way I fixed mine.
      You have to take apart, the upper part of the transfer belt (Don’t do anything to the rest parts, transfer belt and rollers). It’s not hard just tricky. After you open it remove the metal that holds the two silicon blades (or rubber, i don’t know). The fat one is the blade that cleans the belt. Probably it will be bent down.

      This is what did the trick for me: After I marked with marker, I pulled of the silicon cleaned it well and cleaned the metal where it was sitting. I used double-sided tape to glue it back BUT I glue it upside down so it push on the belt!!! Just flip it over. Re assemble but put some toner on the edge of the blade to help it roll on the belt. You can spill some toner on the belt and spin it from the gear on the bottom to check if it cleans write. The rotation is up and in the blade compartment. Even if the thin blade not touching now the belt, its still fine. Hope it help anyone with same problem!

    • George Hald

      Chris I had the same problem after not using my clp 315 for a
      long time. The problem to mine was on the blade of the transfer belt! Because it’s
      constantly touching the belt on an angle, it bents and keeps that shape, and
      stops cleaning right causing previous page to stay to the next as ghost! In
      case you still have yours you can try the way I fixed mine. If you changed all the
      transfer belt part and not only the belt then that’s not the problem to yours.
      But if you didn’t change it all then the blade with the problem is there.

      You have to take apart, the upper part of the transfer belt (Don’t
      do anything to the rest part, transfer belt and rollers). It’s not hard just
      tricky. After you open it remove the metal that holds the two silicon blades
      (or rubber, i don’t know). The fat one is the blade that cleans the belt.
      Probably it will be bent down.

      This is what did the trick for me: After I marked with marker,
      I pulled off the silicon cleaned it well and cleaned the metal where it was
      sitting. I used double-sided tape to glue it back BUT I glue it
      upside down so it push on the belt!!! Just flip it over. Re assemble but put
      some toner on the edge of the blade to help it roll on the belt. You can spill
      some toner on the belt and spin it from the gear on the bottom to check if it
      cleans right. The rotation is up and in the blade compartment. Even if the thin
      blade not touching now the belt, its still fine. Hope it help anyone with same

  • Alain

    Hi everyone,
    I’ve tried this hack, the problem is the printer, a CLP315, initializes but after initializing the light stays red and that’s it! I haven’t made any mistake with the soldering. I would appreciate any hints or any help. Thanks and so long.

    • Larry M

      The timing can be tricky. You have to hold in the new, added button when turning on the printer, but when you release it is critical. Search the entire blog for “release” to see the different cues that have worked for different folks.

  • Ni

    The hack worked for my CLP-310 too. Thanks!!!

    It did test the hack without soldering. You can hook a thin wire behind the top left leg of the chip and remove it at the right moment (once the LED has turned green).
    I had to tape the chips on my toner cartridges, otherwise it didn’t work.

    • Larry M

      Ni, it’s great that this worked for you. But you will have to do it again (and again), each time a cartridge runs out and is manually refilled. That’s why we have installed externally-controllable buttons. You don’t want to have to take the cover off every time.

  • Mitja

    Hi, everyone,
    I need some help on the CLP-315. The Q13 transistor on the Main Controller PBA board (the same board you are doing the hack on) has burned and I cannot identify it anymore. It is positioned near the bottom set of connectors. Can anyone be so kind to tell me what is written on the transistor. Thank you in advance.

  • Mitja

    Hi, again
    Can anyone be so kind to tell me what is written on the transistor in the red circle on the picture? Mine got burned and need the data to get a replacement.

    Thank you in advance.

  • pubdc

    Brilliant write-up. Managed to reset my CLP-315W just fine. Confirm left-upper pin. I just soldered a wire to the pin and widely curved the wire around some parts on the circuit board so it would stick in place. Then routed the wire out through a tiny gap in the network port. I stripped bare a part of the wire sticking out and short it manually to the usb port when a reset is due. Not as nice as your switch for sure, but hey : it’s on the out-of-sight rear-end anyway.

  • Mark

    Someone ever tryed with clp-360?

  • Laurence Marks

    Off-Topic Post: How to clear Paper Jam 3

    Please excuse this off-topic post. Since we all have printers of the same family, we will all encounter this problem eventually.

    Paper Jam 3 occurs when paper doesn’t cleanly feed through the hot fuser rollers at the rear of the machine. The manual assumes that not all of the paper will have passed through the rollers; some of it will be hanging free at the rear of the machine. It instructs you to

    –Power off the printer

    –Open the back cover

    –Lift the two green levers to remove tension on the rollers

    –Pull the accessible portion of the paper downward to remove it from the rollers

    –Reverse the preceding steps

    Rarely the jam will actually occur this way and resolving it is a simple matter of following the directions above.

    Unfortunately, more frequently, the entire sheet curls and wraps around the upper roller leaving no tail at the rear for extraction. If you print a page that has high toner coverage (e.g., a photo graph on letter paper), it is very likely that this jam will occur. The high ink density causes the paper to curl enough that it clings to the top roller and wraps around it.

    The manual gives no clue about extracting the sheet. The rollers are hot, even if power was turned off immediately, baking the paper and making it brittle. This complicates the removal process. Furthermore, it’s not obvious but the upper fuser roller can be turned in one direction only, also complicating jammed-paper removal.

    Here’s the method that works for me:
    –Power off the printer
    –Open the back cover
    –Lift the two green levers to remove tension on the rollers
    –Open the top cover (Just the part that lifts. There’s no benefit to unscrewing the entire cover.)
    –Open the secondary cover beneath the top cover
    –Let the rollers cool down a bit
    –The paper will not be tightly wrapped around the roller. There’s just enough slack to insert a hook at one edge and tear the paper all the way across to the other edge. Keep the tear as close to the front of the printer as possible. Be careful not to damage the rubber roller with the hook–keep the tip above the roller while tearing the paper.
    –Use the hook to lift the paper that is on the back of the roller. Grasp that paper with a forceps or needle-nose pliers and pull. The roller will turn and the paper will come out in one piece. The roller only turns one way–the top surface moving from back to front. That’s why the tear is made towards the front, to leave sufficient paper at the rear to grasp for removal.
    –Check for and remove small scraps of paper
    –Reverse the steps above

    There’s a picture of the pick I used below. I used the right-angle one at the right side, but you could use a dental pick or even a piece of coat-hanger wire.

  • Justin Brehms

    Broken Chip. Apologies. Not sure if anyone is still looking at these posts. I was attempting to perform this hack and busted the top left pin off in my efforts. I have the printer apart and haven’t tried to hook it back together. Will this work if that pin is broken? If it won’t does anyone have info on how to order a new chip?

    I looked at the chip it shows it is a

    ST Microelectronics 4256BWP but I’m not very knowledgeable about circuit boards or components.

    Help would be greatly appreciated.

    • Brian Rumburg

      Hey Justin! Sorry to hear about the broken leg… (c;

      I checked but came up empty. Looks like you can buy small quantities on eBay if you’ve got time on your hands to wait for shipping from China…

      You may also be able to run a bodge wire from the pad to the nub of the broken off pin if you are feeling brave. If you put some flux on the nub of the broken leg, I suspect you will be able to get tiny bit of solder to flow onto it. You should be able to dab at it briefly it with the tip of soldering iron (wet with solder).

      I’m honestly not sure what will happen if you throw a blank EEPROM chip on the board. The firmware may load up default values gracefully or it may just not work. In case of the latter, you will need to copy the contents of the old chip over to the new chip. Fun times.

      • Justin Brehms

        Thank you so much for the reply. The leg is nearly severed (almost completely flush with the chip) so I’m not sure if it will work. I will definately try though, worse case, I’ll look to see if a new chip will actually take. In either case, i will let you know what happens. I’m in grad school and have two weeks of finals, but I will attempt it and post the results.

        Thanks again for the reply and the link

        • lvmarks


          Nearly severed is GREAT NEWS. Continue by soldering the wire to the pin (See my post above on how to do this), and simply fill the crack with solder as you go.

          Be sure to form a hook in the wire as you put it around the leg and get someone to add GENTLE tension as you solder it and fill the gap at the same time.

          Be sure to use the hot glue as described above.


          • Justin Brehms

            I’m not sure if great would be how I would describe it. A better description is that the leg is missing and not very much of a stub remains

          • lvmarks

            Justin, great photo! That really is good news. My first post assumed that the segment was completely gone. The fact that it’s there makes things much easier.

            It is fortunate that this is a CMOS circuit. There’s nearly zero current flow, so resistance doesn’t matter. As long as there’s a voltage present, the circuit will perform correctly–and solder is metallic, so flowing it into the right places will make the needed connections.

            Practice soldering two wire segments as I described, until you get a little confidence. Then:
            1) There’s plenty of stub sticking out of the IC. Put a little solder in the gap–it will flow and close the gap.
            2) Re-solder the bottom of the leg to the PC board. A little heat, and a little solder.
            3) Gently put a hook in a piece of wire. Hook around the IC pin. (If it were me, I would loop all the way around, encircling the pin, and then use a tweezers or needle-nose pliers to gently pull the wire tight. Then another tiny dab of solder to hold the wire in place. Just touch the soldering iron quickly and remove it, so you don’t soften the other two joints.

            If you were here in North Carolina, I’d be glad to do this for you.


          • Justin Brehms

            Thank you Larry. If I was in North Carolina I would let you. I will indeed try the steps you suggested and post the results.

    • lvmarks

      It takes a certain amount of skill and tools you probably don’t have to remove and replace a surface mount chip.

      You might want to get a good temperature-controlled fine-tip soldering iron (maybe this one)
      and some 30 gauge wire-wrap wire like this:
      and some 0.020″ solder like this: (Probable best to use RoHS (lead-free) solder. The solder on the pad won’t mix well with Tin-Lead solder.)

      I picked these URLs quickly. There are probably other sources which are cheaper and quicker. You might be able to find everything at Adafruit or Mouser, for example.

      There are a bunch of articles on the internet on how to solder and how to solder SMT or SMD (Surface Mount Techology/Devices). Read a few of them. When you get ready to solder, remember these two rules:
      1) Don’t dwell on any point too long. That’s how things get damaged. If you can’t get it in 10 seconds, back off for 10-20 seconds and then go again.
      2) Don’t be too shy about the heat. Sometimes it’s better to get in and out quick with the iron set to 500 degrees than to poke along for an extended time at 450.

      For the next part, I am assuming that the IC pin is completely off–broken away from the IC and the board. If it’s not, your job will be much easier than what is described below.

      Turn the printer on its left side, so the printed circuit board is flat. You can’t solder on a vertical board. (Take the toner cartridges out first, of course.)

      Cut an 8″ piece of the 30 ga. wire. Strip about 1/4″ of insulation off one end. “Tin” the wire. That is, heat the wire with the soldering iron and melt a solder coating onto the wire,

      Tin the stub coming out of the IC. Tin the pad on the circuit board. What you want to do now is solder the wire end to both the pad and the stub. It will be a little tricky because soldering one point may let the other one free. You may find it helpful to
      –Solder the wire end to the pad. (Bend a little L in it so maybe 1/16″ is flat on the pad.)
      –Have a helper lean over your shoulder and hold that wire in place on the pad with a very small screwdriver while you hold the bare wire against the stub and tack it with a tiny drop of solder. This may be just be a point contact between side of the wire and edge of the broken pin.
      –Get out your hot glue gun and CAREFULLY bend the wire over until it is flat on an open space on the circuit board. Tack it there with a drop of hot glue.
      –Do this again, maybe an inch further down the wire.
      –And again. Three times is the charm.
      –Extend the wire to one of the circuit board mounting screw. Cut it 1/2″ longer, strip 3/8″ of insulation. Bend a hook in the bare wire end
      –Loosen the mounting screw, hook it with the wire, and tighten it.

      You CAN do this. Just go slow and have patience. These are delicate things–be gentle. If you’ve never soldered before, practice some, Take two pieces of the 30 gauge wire, strip 1/4″ off each, bend hooks in them and try to join them with a nice solder joint. Once you’ve mastered this, then try the procedure above.

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  • David Lewis

    Hello, I read this posting based on a search looking for resources for hacking a laser printer firmware to actually change some printer functions for a research project I am doing. I wonder if you might be open to speaking with me about this?

    • lvmarks


      The best resource for this particular printer is:
      Color Laser Printer
      SERVICE Manual

      It’s not easy to find online. Try places like or For the latter site, you must fiddle around to select English display (mostly) and to register before you can do anything useful.


      • David Lewis

        I don’t really have a specific laser printer in mind, in fact I am open to most any as long as it has 4 or more drums. I am actually looking for help making a printer – print something different – and to do so I need to change how some of its internal controls work.

        • lvmarks

          David Lewis wrote: “I don’t really have a specific laser printer in mind, in fact I am open to most any as long as it has 4 or more drums.”

          Then this is not your printer. The Samsung CLP-310/315 has one “drum” or Organic Photoconductor (OPC). When printing color, it charges one toner cartridge with respect to the drum and builds up a single-color image which it transfers to the “transfer belt.” Then it charges a second, then third, then fourth cartridge in succession, transferring those in turn to the transfer belt, building up the four-color image. Then it feeds paper, transferring the image from the transfer belt to the paper. (Actually, these cycles are overlapped somewhat.)

          This is why this particular printer is rated at 20 pages per minute (ppm) for black-and-white images and 6 ppm for color images.

          You obviously know what an OPC is. A transfer belt appears to be made of polyester terephthalate (Mylar) with some kind of conductive (black) coating–just my guess. It’s an 8.5″ wide around two drums, perhaps 2″ in diameter. The total circumference is around 11″–which is why this printer will print letter (8.5″ x 11″) but not legal (8.5″ x 14″) paper. Probably why you see so many B&W printers that can print letter and legal, but this consumer printer doesn’t. The restriction comes from the transfer belt length.

          More than you wanted to know, no doubt.


  • Nick

    Hi, thank you for the detailed guide. i have a CLP-365W, will this hack work on my model or samsung managed to block this hack in newer models?

    thanks in advacne!

    • Laurence Marks


      We know for certain that:
      1) This works in the 310/315 series
      2) This DOES NOT work in the later 320/325 series and permanently bricks them.

      Unless you are prepared to permanently “brick” (destroy) your printer, I strongly recommend you do not undertake this hack.

      You wrote “…[has] Samsung managed to block this hack…” I would characterize this more as “Has Samsung revised their printer startup code?” I doubt that they are aware of this site or the hack. It’s just that in the CLP-315 (and CLX-3175), they executed this sequence:
      If Initial_Cartridges_Installed, then
      Read Counts from motherboard chip
      // Grounding chip output at startup returns 0 page count for each cartridge
      Read counts from cartridge chips

      Of course, after each page is printed, counts are incremented and written to the appropriate place.

      In later models this code was changed in such a way that if all zeros are returned, the printer will print only blank pages.

      But note the line which reads “Read counts from cartridge chips.” What makes a cartridge expire is that the chip is written (irreversably) to indicate that its toner is exhausted. If you were to refill the toner and replace/rewrite the chip, you could use the cartridge over–at great cost and material savings.

      This is why you can buy toner refills that come with replacement chips from e.g., Staples, Walmart, and Amazon. You could buy refill toner from e.g., Meritline and chips from one of the other sources.

      Now, to save even more money, how about re-writing the chips instead of replacing them? Look below for posts from OzmoOzmo, particularly one where he mentions CRUM, the Customer Replaceable Unit Monitor, Samsung’s name for the function that counts the life of each replaceable component.

      It turns out that they use a tricky chip. Parts can be rewritten like ordinary EEPROM, but when the cartridge end-of-life count is reached, Samsung writes an address which disables further writing. What you would have to do is read the data from a new cartridge, then read it from a cartridge with a few pages used. The registers that have changed are the counts. Periodically, before you exhaust a cartridge, re-write the new or just-begun values (or other invalid values) to the chip. Of course, do this for all four cartridges.

      Someplace or other I have seen something of a map of the chip. Besides color, country, and counts, they had an efficiency value (e.g., this cartridge is light–print a little heavy when using it) and other interesting information. Wish I had it again.

      The positive side of this is that experimenting does not put your printer at risk–at worst you only have to discard a cartridge.

      Please post any result you have here.


      • Nick

        Thank you very much for the detailed reply Larry, really appreciate it!

        now i am guessing i need to get a chip reader to desolder the chip from cartridges and rewrite it?

        • Ramon Buckland

          I have the Samsung C460 printer. Each cartridge has it’s own chip.
          I recently returned to Australia from the UK and found that “aussie” cartridges come up as “Incompatible CYAN cartridge” installed. (I only swapped the cyan).

          Research led me to a chinese company that makes replacement chips. After much english struggles I was able to ascertain that their chips, replaced in the cartridge, would tell the printer everything is ok (and provide a beginning 0 page count).

          So .. ordered .. waited 6 weeks and they arrived today ; and they worked. the Cyan cartridge (australian supplier) has the chinese chip, and the printer has not rejected it.

          The other 3 carts still have toner.

          broken english conversation led me to believe that each new cartridge requires a new chip.. so in disgust I ordered 4 each so that I am covered for a few months… but I do think that these little eeproms are hackable also.

          I am very keen to solve this with the printer at some stage .. thanks a lot for this post.

          The chinese supplier is

          • Laurence Marks

            Here’s an afterthought. The original Samsung chips are special. We know they can be disabled by something the firmware does.They are apparently like regular I2C EEPROMs in all other respects. I notice that in some of the Ali Express images they’ve painted over the chip part numbers with white paint. When you get the chips, would you care to scrape the paint off and post a picture or all the printing on the chip? If you do, I can help identify the chip and its characteristics.

            I don’t know if the Chinese chips are like that, or if they can be re-written indefinitely. I suspect they can be re-written, since the standard chips are much easier to find and cheaper to buy.

            That makes the process fairly simple. Buy or make a chip reader that connects to your PC. Read the chips from four new cartridges and store the files. Whenever a cartridge is nearing empty, re-write the EEPROM chip with the file from the new cartridge. Whenever the cartridge actually stops printing, fill it. (No real need to keep the chip and toner lever in sync.)

            At one time I had in mind to build a fixture, cabled to the PC, to hold the cartridge and contact the chip. Just take the cartridge out, drop it in the fixture, write the appropriate file, and pop the cartridge back into the printer. I never did that because Brian’s scheme has worked for me on my CLP=315 and a CLX-3175 a friend gave me.


          • Nick

            just ordered chip reader/programmer. the original chip has these written on them if that helps at all!

          • Laurence Marks

            I assume that’s a chip from one of the cartridges. Those labels don’t mean anything to me; they’re probably internal Samsung codes. If you were to look at a chip from a different cartridge, you could probably figure out which character indicates color.

            OzmoOzmo (postings below) has written some on reading/writing these chips and the code. That may be helpful to you.

  • Francois

    For the 310/315 series, an easy dumb fix is to just write protect the whole stuff instead of rewriting . There’s also a description of the validation process involving toner chips. You want to NEVER install a toner with a chip.

  • cts_casemod

    This is not absolutely new. My old ML1640 printer and several IBM bios were reset this way. Basically its the result of poor programming (IBM mentioned it would be impossible to brick years ago) in that if no values are received it defaults, rather than using some data to authenticate. The next time the machine tries to save the old data is overwritten with the new, defaults

    For some printers there’s a firmware hack as well. In any case I would suggest to either write protect the eeprom and/or save a dump before the page count gets too low.

    • Laurence Marks

      That’s the point. On a CLP-310/315 (and CLX-3170/3175) you can clobber the data at bot time (and tape over the contacts on the cartridges so they appear to the printer as initial cartridges) and defaults are loaded. Printing the two different test pages causes the defailt values +1 to be written to the non-volatile memory.

      On the newer Samsung printers this is not the case. Everyone that’s tried this fix has bricked his printer.

      There’s some debate as to whether this behavior on the 310/315 was deliberate or not, and whether the change was deliberate or not. We’ll probably never know.

      • cts_casemod

        I doubt that will brick the printer, unless something else has been done wrong.

        On the newer M2825ND, resetting the EEPROM will load the default network settings and clear the Serial number. It will also clear fuser and all rollers life on the printer. It wont reset consumables. these are saved elsewhere.

        For example, after letting the cartridge be recognized, one can short the cartridge SDA line. The printer will happily keep printing AND increasing the counters. Removing the cartridge to another printer reveals that the page number on the toner wasn’t increased. Yet if the original printer is booted again with the same cartridge it updates the counters.

  • Fergonez

    Thank you for writing this!
    Do you have another link for the process of opening the printer up? The current link is down.
    I almost disassembled the entire printer already but the side panel won’t come out. I can’t seem to find this last screw that is holding the side panel.


    • lvmarks

      –Open the front door.
      –Take out two screws holding top cover on.
      –Take out four toner cartridges and catcher box, set aside on sheet of newspaper (because it’s easiest to solder on the circuit board with it on top, printer on its side).
      –Take out catcher box and Imaging Unit (drum) and cover it with dark cloth/cardboard box, so it’s not exposed to light.
      –Remove top cover by pulling forward, then lifting.
      –Remove one screw in back that holds the right side cover on. Grasp cover at bottom, spread where it wraps around the front and back and pull. Work up to the top, It’s really hard. The cover is actually mechanically held by snapping on. The screw in the back is just for looks.
      –Turn printer onto left side (right side on top) to make soldering easy.

      At the time this forum started, there were no videos, but now there are several on YouTube showing how to do this. Just have a look.

  • lvmarks


    I can’t seem to reset it this time. It’s showing two cartridges exhausted and one low. The button seems functional as it does cause the printer to cycle for a long time when pressed, and I get the UPDATING MEMORY message.

    I’ve tried it several times.

    I’ve also tried releasing early instead of waiting for the complete startup sequence. (This has the effect of changing the printer from US version to non-US. I’m asked to pick from a list of countries that doesn’t include the US. Once I do, all four cartridges are declared INVALID. Samsung does code the chip the US cartridges differently than other countries, but this is peculiar since the cartridge contacts are taped over and it’s referring to the counts in NVRAM. Fortunately, I can restore it to US function by restarting and holding the button down for the complete startup cycle. Interestingly, the secret reset code, Menu #193, also causes the Invalid Cartridges message.)

    Putting the printer into the secret Tech Menu mode, Menu #1934, is also not helpful. Nor was powering the printer up with contacts uncovered (on exhausted cartridges).

    I can’t think of what to try next. Ideas?

    • lvmarks

      Okay, figured it out. I should have made this clear in my post some time ago. After you’ve made the modification to a CLX-3175 as described some time ago, you must follow this procedure each time the printer reports a cartridge exhausted.

      1. Turn off printer
      2. Hold button down while turning on printer.
      3. Release button before motor starts to spin. (If you hold the button too long, the printer will change regions and report “Invalid cartridges.” If that happens, just try steps 1-3 again.)
      4. Networking settings will be hosed. Use the Menu to clear network settings.
      5. Apply all network settings again. That includes the TCP/IP and Wireless settings. Note that you cannot use the “Wizard” if you have lower case in your password. You have to enter both SSID and WPA key using the keypad.